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My generator isn't charging the battery. This is fine during the daytime, but at night, its an issue.
I did a bunch of reading last night about swapping in an alternator for a generator. There's a ton of information out there, some of it conflicting.
Many folks talk about using the AC Delco units with the Swedish Embassy adapter. While this seems the most straight forward, the bracket is $100.
Others talked about using a first generation RX7 alternator. Not a lot of details on that other than "drops right in." Those kind of comments scare me a little.
If the Swedish Embassy route is the best answer, I can do that. I'd like to try and save the $100 if possible. So if anyone has an alternative that works well, please post some details.
Just so you know, I have a '65 122S Wagon with a B18. I think it's a later motor, but I don't think it has the bosses for the pivot on an alternator. I will check again this morning.
TIA
Joe
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I made my own bracket and got the 100 amp AC Delco. I am very happy with the improved performance.
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posted by
someone claiming to be patrick of montreal
on
Fri Feb 26 08:16 CST 2010 [ RELATED]
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you can fix the gen the thing is there is a reason cars haven`t had gens since the early 70`s......they require more maintenance. The ACdelco will go in with minor mods (enlarge botom hole of alt and use washers to line up pulleys, ant the top mount belt tensioner can be bought off the shelf or be made by bolting 2 belt tensioners together (the span is a little longer than usual though pickups often have quite a long tensioner assembly. Finally have run Bosch and ACdelco alts in many cars over the years and I prefer acdelco, bosch alts are less reliable and more expensive/harder to repair. Usually I am a big bosch fan and will always pay the extra for the quality but with alts it doesn`t work.
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I thought the change from generators to alternators had more to do with the alternators' ability to provide full power at low rpms than with maintenance. Auto manufacturers aren't really known for trying to make cars that don't need the maintenance provided by their dealership networks... case in point: ball joints once came with grease fittings to allow lubing. Now they're "lifetime lubricated." That doesn't mean the new ones last longer - it means they can't be serviced (which would extend their life) and instead must be replaced ($$ for the dealerships).
Generators are simple enough that repairs and maintenance don't (or shouldn't) require paying anyone else to fix the thing... I'd grant that there are those among us who can replace diodes (for example) in an alternator - but I'm guessing that the majority of us really can't. Which further adds to the cost and the likelihood that we have to pay someone else to fix a complex thing that replaced a simple thing we could once maintain ourselves. I like the idea of self reliance. Something to aspire to, given that I'll never attain it.
Fortunately there are lots of viable options available and we can each choose what we think is 'best.'
Cameron
444,122SC
Rose City
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The thing is the manufactures do want the car not to breakdown too soon. Gens go through brushes all the time so that is a major wear item, also the contact points in the VR are a constant wear item. The ACdelco
has a rebuild kit that cost $10. and is in any napa etc.. but I get a little modern sometimes..I have the electronic ignition from a 76 240 as well in my 220 and that has been bulletproof...still I keep the old ignition in the boot next to the spare tire which I have also never had to use....tires do not got flat as much as they used to, charging systems don't fail as much , points don't have to be done on modern cars. The new tech has good points and bad I like to mix and match to get the best of both, which I have in my 220 (also has Sears cruise control from the 70's).
It really is a to each their own kind of thing with the gens but I have spent enough time fooling with gens and VRs to know that Alts are the way to go for me...they are also lighter than gens, and in the case of the B18 easier to remove and install.
--
Patrick, '68 220, '92 Eurovan , '53 PD4104 (highway coach conversion).
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I am with George - fix the generator.
It may be as simple as replacing the brushes. These are available and cheap. Or it may need more work - in my case I took my generator into an auto electric shop and they rebuilt it for much less than it would have been for the alternator swap in with the bracket.
I am a bit of a purist, so the look of the AC Delco alternator looks, well, like an AC Delco alternator....ugh. I love the original look of my genny and it works perfectly fine.
waggin
1965 220 wagon
1970 P1800 (new project)
1985 turbo wagon
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I have used the Swem kit. Yes its pricey but it comes with basically everything you need to upgrade. Plus while you are doing that install it is the perfect time for a Big3 upgrade too.
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I bought an AC Delco reman'd (rebuilder is Delco approved) alternator from a place in Tennessee for $56 plus S&H and a core charge of $7. came to about $72.00, since locally the same alternator was more like $90 plus tax, I thought that was pretty cheap. The Delcos come with the wiring at different locations on the back, 12 o'clock seems best for a B18. They are reliable, having been around forever, cheap to fix and parts are everywhere. There's something to be said for that. I also bought Ron's kit. You could get a bracket from IPD for less, but they don't respond to questions on the BB or maintain a web site full of info the way he does. Nothin' is for nothin'.
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Rather than go to all that trouble, why not just FIX what you have?
Generators aren't that tough to work on and a VW regulator will work OK.
Now if you are going with 100 watt driving lights and 400 watt stereo you might need
an alternator......
--
George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!
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The flaps has brushes for about $8 for a set (I assume 2).
They also have a voltage regulator for $32.
1) Can I replace the brushes with the generator in the car?
2) If not that regulator, then which VW one should I look for?
TIA
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I guess I could fix it. Didn't know it was an option.
Got any links to some tech articles on how to do that?
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Not right off but I'm sure you can find some.
Best advice I can give is that there is a screw in the window in the back that
you have
to remove to get it apart without tearing stuff up. Once you get it apart you can probably
see what is wrong with it right away.
Remove the pulley first.
If the field coils are damaged they may be hard to find (although I have bought them new
in the past). I have a few extra rolls of fiberglas tape with heat-setting adhesive
that is good for taping up the windings to hold them together. The old stuff is usually
falling apart.
--
George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!
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I'm quite satisfied with my Swedish Embassy kit. A little pricey, sure, but I really like to support the vendors and suppliers that support the vintage volvo community (and particularly Brickboard) with my parts-buying dollars.
There are some "universal alternator brackets" scattered around on Ebay. Price looks to be in the $30 range. Not sure how well they will work on a B18, if at all. You could probably spend a couple hours laying upside down trying to find a bracket/alternator combination that will work. One problem is that people frequently end up having to grind off part of an alternator, which voids the warranty and ability to use it as a core, if you plan to use the remanufactured ones available from a parts counter.
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Many of the automotive electric shops around Portland sell generic "alternator mount brackets" that'll fit the B18/20 easily. Once you have one of those, you can use just about any kind of alternator you like.
Maybe such things are available to you locally?
Best,
Cameron
444,122SC
Rose City
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When I had my '68 144S with B18/generator I modified the generator mounting bracket (took a little fabrication/welding) to accept a Delco alternator.-- Dave
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Hello,
search the triumph interwebs... Google: triumph alternator conversion they look really similar to the Volvo set ups. I stink at auto electrics otherwise would have answered your question better. I've a b20 with the bracket already, but if you can source the alternator bracket from a saab 900 it woks really well...
its two pieces with a U shaped bracket and a threaded rod that allows you to ad or remove slack. Had the set up on the old b18 with header worked well till the engine died on the hughway.
cheers,
greendead
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Hello,
search the triumph interwebs... Google: triumph alternator conversion they look really similar to the Volvo set ups. I stink at auto electrics otherwise would have answered your question better. I've a b20 with the bracket already, but if you can source the alternator bracket from a saab 900 it woks really well...
its two pieces with a U shaped bracket and a threaded rod that allows you to ad or remove slack. Had the set up on the old b18 with header worked well till the engine died on the hughway.
cheers,
greendead
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Hello,
For stock applications, I prefer a Bosch rebuilt 55 amp alternator in conjunction with the IPD bracket(if needed)and a Bosch electronic voltage.
For cars with high power lights and/or low powered stereos, I recommend a custom made 100 amp Bosch alternator that is a direct replacement for the 55 amp version.
For cars with lights and a high powered stereo, a 200+ amp high output alternator is recommended, but this option requires additional parts and is very expensive.
--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
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Four years ago, I did exactly what Eric Planetman recommends here (Bosch 55 amp alternator with an IPD bracket and a Bosch electronic voltage reg). It has been a reliable and good-looking set-up.
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