Pierre, I think you are replacing a 960 pump, right? If so, I used Alldata's online manuals last time I did this.It is good info-looks like the factory manual(s).Subscriptions are about $20-$30 if I remember. The job is not too bad-make sure timing marks are visible and you can line everything up before you pull much off. Replacing the tensioner is a good idea if it is old. Compressing the new tensioner is hard-I put it under the car and slowly compressed it in stages with a floor jack.

sredwine '94 940T at 238K, '96 965 has 154K

Dear Pete,

May this find you well. Some tips:
(a) Use genuine Volvo items for the doughnut (top) and the heater pipe (back) seals. The heater pipe seal, if Volvo brand, will have slightly radiused edges. This slight curve - at both edges - eases installation.
(b) I used a bottle jack, and a piece of strapping trimmed to fit, to raise the pump so that the doughtnut seal was fully and evenly compressed. One end of the strapping rested atop the jack and the other on the flat surface on underside of the pump's shaft housing. The jack allows very gradual lifting.
(c) With the pump supported by the jack, I was able to tighten the bolts and nuts in a hop-scotch fashion, compressing the gasket evenly
(d) I adhered the gasket to the pump body with a light coating of gasket adhesive applied to the gasket
(e) I applied a light film of anti-seize to the water pump bolts and nuts, against the time when I'll have to replace the pump.
(f) I had the special tool to ease removal of the crank pulley bolt, if not, the methods set forth in the FAQs will work. If you want to wedge the ring gear, be advised not to insert the screwdriver tip more than 3/8". That will wedge the flywheel but not risk damage to the tone ring.

Hope this helps and that the job goes smoothly.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

OK here's 3. The studs and bolts are pretty damn weak. Do not repeat do not overtorque them. I think it calls for 11 or 12 ft lbs, no more! They can and do snap off if over torqued. Ask me how I know:(

Getting the preheater tube into the back of the waterpump without folding/wrinkling the small rubber O ring is a challenge, use a small amount of whatever your favorite RTV is, on the O ring as a lubricant.

Depending on the casting on the pump for the stud holes, you may have a challenge getting one or more of the bolts started. If so get a small philips head screwdriver and place it in the bolt hole above or below the one you are trying to start and use the screwdriver to lever the pump upwards to allow the bolt to get started

Oh one last one. Spray all the adjustment hardware for the power steering pump, A/C and alternator the night beforehand with PB Blaster. Makes removal nice and easy.