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Two questions about pulling the B200 engine out 200

I want to pull out the B200 engine and the AW70 transmission to be able to work on it with good access. I have a typical 1t. engine hoist like this one:

http://tinyurl.com/yk7wodm

My questions are:

1.Will I be able to pull the engine together with the transmission over the front bumper? I love my knuckles and would prefer to separate engine and transmission out of the car.

2.How do I remove that “shelf” that goes over the front lamps? When I was removing the engine in other V240 I had, I just took it off by unscrewing some bolts. Here it seems to be welded to those frames that hold lamps.

Once I discovered the above I disassembled everything in the down section thinking I'm going to remove the whole assembly where the radiator, grille and lamps are sitting. It seemed logical judging from where the screws were positioned holding all that piece together near the front bumper.

To my surprise when I removed all screws whole the frame became loose but didn't came off. It seems to be somehow "glued" to another sheet of metal that goes along with the front bumper and is installed with some rivets (and presumably welded) to the front fenders.

If you have no idea what am I talking about, please look at the photo:


and a short movie I made:
http://www.viddler.com/explore/glucosa/videos/8/

Is there any smart way to separate it or do I have to use force?








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    I never pull the front grill frame. 200

    I've pulled several powerplants. I always pull engine & trans together.

    I remove the hood (although I have done it with it in place), radiator etc.

    I run a bolt through the chain so I can keep it on a slight angle - nose up. The bolt keeps the hook from sliding. I have one of the levelers shown in another reply here but I've never needed it with a 240.

    Nothing to it IMO.
    --
    240s: 2 drivers and some parts cars








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    Two questions about pulling the B200 engine out 200

    Certainly no need to pull the whole front end of the car off. First off, get one of these:


    It's called a load leveler. It allows you to move the hoist point forward and backward as you lift the motor. As you extract the engine and trans from the car, it needs to change angles several times. Tilted up sharply at first to allow the oil pan to clear the crossmember (you may need to jack the car up to give the tail of the trans room to droop downward more during this phase). A little flatter as it comes forward. Keep hoisting it upward so the front of the engine comes out over the grille. Then, when the tail of the trans is clear, level it out and roll it away from the car.

    Using a load leveler and being able to easily and accurately adjust the tilt as you pull it makes it so easy it's almost like cheating.
    --
    '63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic #1141 245 (now w/16V turbo)








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      Two questions about pulling the B200 engine out 200

      Thanks for all the answers. I'm with JohnMc - at the price load levelers are there was nothing to think about and I already bought one.

      Also thanks for the workarounds but long time ago I did change motor mounts using piece of rope and lots of sweat and swearing. After that experience I decided my back is worth spending some money on engine hoist even if I'll use it once or twice a year. The same applies in this case so all I needed was pointing out such thing as load leveler existed.

      Besides I like new toys and it's such a pleasure to have the right tool for the job.








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      Two questions about pulling the B200 engine out 200

      Certainly a load level rig would be nice--but in the absence of one a simple chain run diagonally across the motor-front to rear will allow you to shift the position without any trouble. A screwdriver jammed through a chain link against the hook will keep the motor/tranny at the angle you want. As others have noted--jack the car high enough to allow a radical angle--no body parts (except the hood) need be removed. On my last trip to NC I removed the engine and AW70 this way from the 245 which will receive an Olds 215 V-8 from the worn out 265 body I originally used (10 years, 150k miles on the road). This trip I'm 3/4 of the way to removing the V-8 and hope to at least have it plopped into place in the later body before returning to NY this weekend. Have fun. -- Dave








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        Two questions about pulling the B200 engine out 200

        But they're cheap:
        http://www.opentip.com/Tools-Auto-Industrial/Jchstools-Load-Leveler-p-1455767.html

        And much easier than wrestling around trying to get a chain to slide the other wat than it wants to.

        I've done more than a few engine pulls that way, with a screwdriver jammed in the chain, but the leveler is just so much nicer and easier.
        --
        '63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic #1141 245 (now w/16V turbo)








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    Two questions about pulling the B200 engine out 200

    Yes,you have spot welds to deal with,or you could just remove the engine/trans together by jacking the vehicle and working with angles as has been suggested,I have done it many times w/o removing anything north of the radiator.








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    Two questions about pulling the B200 engine out 200

    I guess if you have the hoist, pulling engine and tranny together is the way to go.

    I've removed the bumper, but yes you'll have to cut through the welds to remove the lower section. Metal saw blade slid between works.

    I thought the car was red. Installing Mikunis, b200 - is that a carbed car?
    --
    1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont.








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      Two questions about pulling the B200 engine out 200

      Thanks. Since there is a way that doesn't involve cutting I will choose that one.

      Yes, my other Volvo is red. Unfortunately it serves as a parts source now.

      The silver Volvo I play with now, has B200E engine but someone removed the K-Jet and put a ZS carb on it. Most of the K-Jet was gone so I didn't even think of restoring it. The conversion done by previous owner left much to be desired, the carb itself was very worn out. When looking for the best solution I've found v-performance.com and liked the idea of Mikunis. After torturing John with lots of questions I bought a pair.

      The only problem was intake manifold since John works mostly with B18/B20 engines. Finally I have found that AQ140 Penta engines were B21 based and used twin Solex carbs. This manifold is very rare piece but possible to get. After lots of hunting I got one from Ebay.

      I have those carbs on the manifold now and it fit right in. However to make it work on car it still needs some fiddling, drilling and tapping (vacuum, accelerator cable etc.). What I'm missing is time to finish that and I want to deal with those #%$*! brakes and seal the engine and transmission first.








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        Two questions about pulling the B200 engine out 200

        I'll try to remember to check back to see how the Mikunis are functioning. I've got SUs, and back up Strombergs (which I don't like).

        Canada's B21A engines (up to '84) have single carb manifolds. People hold onto them until the body rusts away.
        --
        1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont.








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    Two questions about pulling the B200 engine out 200

    When I pulled my engine, I didn't remove any of the front sheet metal. I pulled the engine and gearbox (M47) as a unit. The trick is to jack the car up so you can tilt the engine up a bit to clear the crossmember and front end. I removed the hood to get as much clearance as possible.







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