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Engine lift woes 444-544

My friend and I decided it was impossible to get the oil pan out of my '65 544 (B18) without lifting the engine some. The drain plug threading was stripped and we have a spare, and so decided we'd replace it and learn a thing or two about B18s. This is the first time we've lifted one and it hasn't gone perfectly. We took out the battery and radiator and disconnected the exhaust from the manifold, then lifted the engine some. Disappointingly it was lifted too high and the bellhousing made an impression in the firewall/battery tray area. I also bent the throttle linkage, thinking it had been fully loosened when it was not. Proceeding more carefully, we are very gently prying between the bellhousing and block, avoiding the flywheel. As this picture will show, it seems like the engine is quite far forward, but it still won't come loose!

I know this isn't the last B18 I'll be needing to lift, and I would hate to be getting this rough with a restored one. What is the correct procedure for convincing the block to depart from the transmission? Were we correct in assuming you can't remove the oil pan without doing this?








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    I'm with JohnMc's method 444-544

    I had the front on ramps and pulled the motor and trans together. Only removed the hood, fan and radiator so I would not damage them. Used a load leveler to change the angles as it came out. Worked pretty well and I didn't even know what I was doing.
    Had a helper with me mainly to dial 911 if things went wrong.








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    Engine lift woes 444-544

    Did you take the shifter off?

    I'm getting the impression that the trans is back against either the driveshaft (splines only slide so far) or the shifter (pokes up through the hole) and the engine oil pan up forward against the crossmember.

    Really, just leave the two together if you plan on pulling the engine. Easier to deal with them out of the car, and it's not hard to pull them as a complete unit. If yo're pulling the engine anyhow, it's just a couple of extra things to disconnect on the trans to get it to come out too.

    Just lift the front of the car up some (generally, the trans tail needs to droop down more than it can on flat ground), tilt it enough to get the oil pan over the crossmember, then lift it forward and upward until the trans clears. A load leveler is a *very* nice thing to ahve, as the angle needs to change at different points in this.

    --
    '63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic #1141 245 (now w/16V turbo)








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    Engine lift woes 444-544

    You have to tip the engine upward at an insane angle to get it out!
    --
    George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!








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      Engine lift woes 444-544

      Please forgive me for highjacking this thread. I need to switch engines very soon; should I really lift the old one out with the trans attached or is it okay to separate engine and trans and just lift out the engine?
      --
      www.californiaclassix.com/Bernard/PV544-1.html








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        Engine lift woes 444-544

        You are forgiven! What I think is first, I'll take the nose section off next time to make a little more room. We removed the hood and did use a leveler. I know John had the nose on, but by the time we cleared the rather long input shaft, the fan and crank pulley were making some minor contact with the upper nose and area beneath the radiator respectively. No damage, just wouldn't want to do it that way on a nice bay and new engine. Then again, we never achieved much of an angle. Next time I almost definitely will include the transmission in the removal process. Seems easier. I bet a shop might do it that way for convenience.

        Thanks all for the advice :)








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        Engine lift woes 444-544

        I've done it both ways (trans on/trans off) and found it easier to do together as a unit.

        Never took off all the front sheet metal though, just the hood. If you have a load leveler and an engine hoist, easy enough to get it out without endangeroing any fenders.
        --
        '63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic #1141 245 (now w/16V turbo)








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        Engine lift woes 444-544

        I install / remove while the gearbox is still attached to the engine. It can be done with them apart, but it seems more difficult.

        My procedure on the 544 is to remove all the front sheet metal. I find it easier to do that than to force the engine / gearbox out at that "insane angle". Both fenders and the nose are pretty easy to remove. I'd guess less than 20 bolts. Although it can be done alone, it is easier with a helper to avoid scratching things. Then sliding the assembly out or in is a piece of cake.







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