I have a diagram for my 122 now so that I can sort out some electrical issues I'm having.

I don't know which way the numbers on the diagram correspond to the fuses in the box however. Is it #1 top, #4 bottom, or vice-verse....?

Also... does anybody know if there's a way to replace those old style fuses with the glass types?... I find that the new replacements I've been able to find have rather flimsy metal and don't go into the holder leads very well..

Thanks.

TOP -- 25 Amp (short and stubby fuse)
2 - 8 Amp
3 - 8 Amp
4 - 8 Amp

http://65brick.blogspot.com/2008/06/fuse-block.html

some other interesting stuff in there too...
labels
http://65brick.blogspot.com/2008/07/fuse-labels.html

Thanks Benwah,

I figured out which fuse was number one now. That's a nice site. I now know a conversion to glass fuses is possible.

I'm now trying to diagnose some problems that occured when I left my 122 sit neglected for a while. My battery recharge system is not working and my windshield wiper is out. My heater motor works though.

I have the conversion kit for translating my car to a 12-v alternator, so my alt is fairly new, but now it seems that the recharge circuit is not recharging the battery. I don't think it is the battery, because I seem to be able to recharge the battery on my trickle charger just fine and it will hold enough juice to start it right up.

I just ran it now though and turned on my headlights for a bit, and just after maybe five minutes I turned it off and could not re-start it...

Originally I thought my turn-signals were out, but those are actually working. My windshield wiper motor is not working however. It even gets slightly warm to the touch, even though the switch is not turned on to either low or high positions.

I'm not sure how to proceed in diagnosing what my recharge problem is? Do alternators get corroded enough to loose charging ability over time left in the elements? I didn't have a recharge problem at all before letting it sit for a long while. I don't know what the "amp" light on the dash is doing, as it's always been rather dim and I usually can't see it in daylight. I'll have to recharge the battery again, re-start it in the dark and see what that light is doing and report back here.

Any help/tips appreciated...

Your wiper motor is frozen. It is trying to return to the 'parked' position whenever you have the ignition on which is why it feels warm to the touch. Just unplug the motor for now, it uses 12V and with the lights on you cannot charge a battery.

Klaus
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Why are Volvos so endearing? Its just a car.

OK, thanks.

Do you mean to say I cannot recharge the battery in parked/idle in GENERAL with the lights on, or specifically when the wiper motor is stuck like this AND the lights are on at the same time?

I will unplug the wiper motor right now.

I was lucky enough to get a 220 with a voltmeter gauge. 14V is as high as it gets, 13.5 with the headlights on. If your car were to get lower than 13V with the wiper motor and lights on, the battery will take forever to recharge. Remember, starting the car steals a lot of amps from the battery.

Letting any car idle to charge a rundown battery is a waste of time and gasoline, to say nothing about wear and tear on the engine and cooling system. Use a good trickle charger for at 24 hours, or over night at a minimum.

Klaus
--
Why are Volvos so endearing? Its just a car.

Thanks for the input.

I'm getting some frustrating symptoms now with the whole thing. It seems that when I charge up the battery and put it back in the car, the turn signals work and everything seems fine. I drove it last night in the dark to see what the amp light would do when I had the headlights and blower motor on, and it never lit up once...

But... pretty soon my turn-signals quit working on me again, and when I returned back home, sure-enough, there wasn't enough juice left in the batter to even turn the engine over once.

I'm wondering if the turn signals require a minimum voltage level to work? My fuse number one seems just fine (or wouldn't the amp light lite-up?).

My battery seems to accept a trickle charge and charge back up just fine, and when I put it back in the car it starts the engine up just fine..., but could it be that the battery is going bad? I let the car sit for quite a while... so perhaps that was bad for the battery?

Any input/help appreciated...

If you don't have a meter to test the difference in the voltages across the battery terminals with the engine off and when its running at, say, about 2K revs, you can try this as a simple test. After dark, put on your headlights and fan on fast with the engine at slow tick over and then see if the headlights brighten up quite a bit when you increase the revs. This will show that the battery is getting some charge. This test shows easier if you have a dynamo but should work with an alternator too. If there is no increase in brightness you have a no charge problem. If you have a meter you'll already know this.

The bottom fuse in the fuse box only does the interior lights, unless you have a stalk that flashes the headlights.

It is time to verify the output of your alternator. And the wire from the alternator to the battery. One of them is not working.

Klaus
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Why are Volvos so endearing? Its just a car.

Oh... forgot to ask... is there anything related to the charging system that runs through the fuse-box?

My conversion seems to have been done such that the positive pole is almost directly connected to the alternator...?