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Temp gauge reading low - fixed 200 1988

Temp gauge would sometimes not read and/ or after a complete warm up the needle would sometimes get just up into the gauge.

The needle pegged when wire grounded; and replaced the sender with a good one - no dif.

As the temp-compensator board usually causes the needle to peg and then drop, I believed it was a bad connection.

1) Connections at the grey block on the firewall were fine.

2) pulled the cluster, removed the board, cleaned the 4 pins. One of the pins was tilted before I cleaned so I think someone had the comp board out and pushed the pin aside - rather than in the little metal tube.

Net, it's fine now. I know the boards go but I've had good luck cleaning the board contacts. And this is echoed in a couple of archive threads.
--
240s: 2 drivers and some parts cars








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    Temp gauge reading low - fixed 200 1988

    I'm with the other two.. I would have just used the jumper wire method, and solved the whole problem. I wouldn't trust anything that said "temp. faker" on it. :-) Anyways, I just jumped mine awhile back, and said good bye to that problem of false readings.








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    Why on earth didn't you remove it? .... 200 1988

    I'm curious as to why, having already accessed the TCB, you didn't remove it and put in the jumper in its place.

    The reason for asking is that the board does absolutely no good for you. It isn't just a question of being unreliable (especially given its age), but that it actually lies to you.

    The board is there to dampen temperature swings -- actually, it was developed to stop the inquiries of american owners who are used to idiot lights instead of real temperature gauges, and who were unduly alarmed (and bothers dealers)when they saw the temperatures fluctuate normally (e.g., in traffic on hot summer days). Thus, the board keeps the gauge indicating exactly 9:00 until the temperature rises to a near critical temperatue, only then allowing the gauge to rise to near the read.
    Thus, you don't get any early warning of impending problems (e.g., a leaky cooling system, etc.) -- with the board it is essentially just an "idiot gauge" (as in idiot light), where one moment is shows normal, and the next it's telling you that the car is already about to overheat.

    So who would want to keep it that way, instead of (by simply bypassing the board) you will get a properly accurate and responsive gauge like any pre-'85 car?

    Which is why I asked, having gone through the trouble of removing the instrument panel to access the board, why didn't you remove it instead of "fixing" and keeping it?

    Best regards,








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      why, having already accessed the TCB, you didn't remove it? 200 1988

      I know what it is; how it works; why Volvo added it; the risk of the needle only going to condition hot after it's to late; etc. I've jumpered others, why not this one?

      - It's work to make the jumper and I didn't want to take the time

      - I don't like the approach of forcing bare wire into the plugs

      - I didn't feel like doing it

      - I wanted to know if the TCB was bad so I needed a control

      - I don't have the negative view of the TCB that you seem to

      - I usually smell a leaky cooling system before any gauge warns me

      Your "Thus, the board keeps the gauge indicating exactly 9:00 until the temperature rises to a near critical temperatue" isn't really true. 2 of my cars read around 8:00; another one 8:30; a couple more that I maintain below 9:00; another one just above 9:00.

      My post was more about finding that it wasn't the TCB but the additional comments are good for folks thinking about eliminating it.

      And your "having gone through the trouble of removing the instrument panel to access the board" I don't find removing the instrument panel any trouble at all: remove 4 screws, level the wheel, pull out, slide left and cant the right out, disconnect wires. Removing the back is more time consuming but not difficult either.


      --
      240s: 2 drivers and some parts cars







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