I'm getting ready to change the mounts on my 89 760 turbo and I can't see how to get anything like decent access to the passenger side top mount bolt or top bracket bolts without removing the turbo. I haven't read about turbo removal being necessary in anyone else's recorded experience, but the FAQ section is a little skinny on the procedure with a turbo car. I can live with removing the turbo (and manifold) and indeed this would make the mount replacement pretty easy, but I'm keen to know if there's a better way - one that doesn't involve going scouting for a bunch of new gaskets and o-rings.

Any and all tips, experiences, aid gratefully received.

Thanks

I've done it on two turbos and did not have to remove the turbo. It's been a while, but I think I just used a universal joint and a long extension and removed it from above.

Are you using a device to lift the engine from above? I used something like this:


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Paul NW Indiana '89 744 Turbo 145K/ '90 745 turbo 127K

I recently replaced the engine mounts on my '90 760 GLT. My previous experience was with 240's. Some of those experiences were transferable but I was left to invent some of my own. I agree that the descriptions I researched were a little light on the subject.

From a high altitude perspective, I will summarize a few points. 1. I supported the engine with a 4x4 resting on the fenders, adjusting my takeup bolt apparatus as necessary, lifting the engine when required with a floor jack. 2. I replaced each side at the same time. In other words, the engine was lifted straight up. This was different from the 240 approach. 3. Here is another thought you might consider. Given all the interference from other engine accessories, I decided to loosen the power steering pump on the RH side. I could then swing it aside slightly to get at those bolts. I removed the old mounts with the bottom brackets attached, so lifting the engine gave me space to wiggle the old mount and bracket free. As I said, the mounts were removed together. 4. On the LH side, I unbolted the alternator and removed it from the car. I unbolted the a/c compressor and maneuvered it as necessary. 5. While the a/c compressor and alternator were off, I decided to replace the rubber bushings. This was also a good time to replace drive belts. Frankly, I even replaced timing belt, tension idler, seals, timing belt covers, cleaned throttle body and idle air CV, oil trap, and any hoses that were hardened. But I'm getting carried away with too much detail when I promised a summary. 6. I used a variety of wrench types. I liked the ratchet wrench with the swivel. Used extensions and universal joint for sockets. 7. Throughout, I CLEANED as I went. I disconnected electrical connections and grounds. Cleaned their contacts before reattaching. I also took lots of digital photos of areas before removing/disconnecting and with work in progress. They are nice to refer to should my memory or other references not adequately serve me.

So, I avoided removing the turbo in favor of removing other things that might need routine maintenance. Replacing mounts is not an easy job compared to na 240s mostly because this is a turbo and the equipment is different. But it was a satisfying job. I also replaced the transmission mount - a walk in the park!

For the fun of Volvos.
Mike
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'83 245 GLT, '92 245DL, '90 760 GLT

the last time i did it, i did so on my back. there are two bolts on top and 1 on the bottom. if i remember i used a box wrench and a socket to do the job, was not very hard other then having to use the feel mothod when removing the top ones.

The right side has the top nut holding the motor to the mount, and 3 bolts holding the mount bracket to the subframe. One of the 3 is gotten at from underneath.
I have changed both mounts twice without removing or detaching any accessories.