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Installed rear torque rods today. Thank you all! 200 1990

Finally, installed the rear torque rods on my 1990 Volvo 240 wagon/estate.
The old ones were original and completely worn out.
I put in the IPD adjustable rods.

I found that using a 24 inch breaker bar with 1/2 inch drive was the key piece of this job.
I jacked up the car, removed the wheels, loosened the rear bolts on the torque rods, then the front bolts.
Did one torque rod per side at a time. I had sprayed Pblaster catalyst lubricant onto all the nuts and bolts a week ago.
Sure helped. Assembled it all, tightening the nuts a little more than finger tight, lowered the car onto the ground, then did the final
torque of all nuts. It was a little tight crawling under the car for the final torque of nuts, but not too bad. I'll recheck all nuts after a few days of driving.

The car rides straight and tight, not as firm as suspected. Very much improved! No clunking when shifting, no knocking over bumps. Much less vibration
during acceleration and deceleration. I’m very happy with it.
Next on the to do list is rear shock absorbers, panhard rod, trailing arm bushings, and exhaust. Whew!
Oh, but the money I am saving by doing it myself. Oh….Yeah!

Thank you all for your insight, advice, time, and reviews.

Brandon
Franklin, TN

There are some good photos on my blog at www.hotcrowd (dot) wordpress (dot) com.








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    Installed rear torque rods today. Thank you all! 200 1990

    Just a comment on the IPD adjustable torque rods. Mine started squeaking after 5K miles. Pulled them off and added grease fittings to them.








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      Installed rear torque rods today. Thank you all! 200 1990

      Mine squeak too. Can you describe how and where you added the grease fittings?

      Thanks,

      13








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        Installed rear torque rods today. Thank you all! 200 1990

        I removed the torque rods to do this but would mark a spot you can access with a grease gun before removing them. Bushings are 2 piece and come out easily one the crush tube is pressed out. You will need some grease zerks, drill and tap. My favorite place do get this kind of stuff is EBAY. Most zerks are NPT thread so keep that in mind if you need to purchase a tap and drill bit. Metal was very easy to drill through. One other thing I did was to take a dremel and cut off wheel and added 5 equally spaced grooves along the length of the crush tube. Grease coverage was good as the grease inserted from the outside of the bushing traveled all the way to inside and along the grooves I made.







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