Volvo RWD 200 Forum

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91 240 wont start and no head lights 200

Need help, my 240 wont start even while being jump.
I checked the voltage of the battery, it's in the low 12.+ volts.
There are no parking lights or head lights.
I do get the typical sounds when I put the key in the ignition and the dash lights and dome lights are lit.

I checked the ground to the block and to the started by loosening them and re-tightening them to check the connection, these are okay.
This car has a somewhat new alternator and Interstate battery.

What can be wrong, why wont it start? Any ideas?

Dan








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91 240 wont start and no head lights 200

Is the engine turning over with the starter engaged? If not wiggle the shifter and make sure it is in park or neutral.
Dan








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91 240 wont start and no head lights 200

It wont turn over. I moved the auto shift lever a few times to make sure it was in park. That made no difference.

When I try to start it, the motor wont turn over nor do I get any clicking noise from the starter. What has me stumped is the fact that I don't have any head lights even when jump starting.

As a side note. When I removed the ground cable from the battery and put it back on the ground post I didn't see any sparks jump to the ground cable. But, there are lights on inside the car.

One other thing I'll mention, In the past, I had a problem with the ignition switch. At times, if I turned the car off and without removing the keys tried to start the car again the car would not turn over. It would only turn over if I removed the key from the ignition and re-inserted it, then, it would start.
I don't know if this is related, just thought I'd throw it out there.

Dan








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Checking for starter voltage when cranking 200

Dan's suggestion below is a good one,

"The ignition switch may be the problem, check for 12 volts at the blue/yellow (I think) wire at the starter solenoid with the key on the first position."

But the key has to be in the third (cranking) position not the first.

Also, you'll find it easier to test for cranking voltage (Test light recommended over digital meter) at the "Service Socket", with the Key in the cranking position.

The location of the 240 service Socket is shown below, partly hidden behind the dipstick tube.

240 Starter Service Socket



--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.








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Checking for starter voltage when cranking 200

Well I checked the "Service Socket" while the key was in the cranking position and the light on my test lite up so that looks good.

I also check the hot wire to the started and had juice there.

I'll try taping on the starter solenoid with a block of wood.

What I don't understand is, why doesn't the head lights light up when I turn them on. I thought the head lights would always go on either the car was running or not. They don't go on at all eventhough the battery is in good condition. Is that an indication that the ignition switch is shot?

Dan








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Checking for starter voltage when cranking 200

The head lights are most likely a separate issue. There is a relay that is known to have the socket overheat. I would take it one problem one at a time.

Start with the starter first. You need to check the following things closely and you most likely have done the first two already.

1. Battery Ground to Engine. That has to be a good solid connection. If in doubt, change it out.

2. Battery Plus to the starter also has to be a clean solid connection. This is normally a dragging starter or a click. But take that off the list by checking it.

3. Make sure you have the starter wire on the correct terminal. A lot of starter have a fake terminal that is very easy to mistake as where the starter wire should go. You can easily plug onto that and chase your tail if not careful. The start solenoid terminal is very close to the plus batter connection sort of hidden below it. The fake terminal is for an old ballast resistor and that has lead to several panicked posts about the car not starting after replacing a wire (as the owner of a car with crap insulation is want to do) or putting a new starter. Yes I have that merit badge for the “What have I done Post”.

4. Hung starter vs other problem. Easiest way to sort that out is by taking the key out of the circuit. Well the starter part of it anyway. If you have access to a remote starter switch, you could put that in between the battery and the starter and turn the key to pos II. Hit the switch and see if that causes the starter to engage and the car to start.

If you don't have a remote starter switch you can make a red neck one. Take a wire and crimp a spade lug on it. Pull off the starter solenoid wire and slip that wire in its place. Make the wire long enough to reach the plus battery terminal. Turn the key to pos II and slip on a leather glove and your safety glasses. Touch the wire to the plus terminal and see if the starter engages right away. If yes the voltage going to the starter is too low and you need to address that. If no it's time to replace the starter. You could also just pull it off and have it tested, that is a lot of work if nothing is wrong with the starter however.

Back to the head lights, pull back on the stalk and see if the high beams suddenly pop on. If they do, that is the classic burned up headlight relay symptom. Find the relay and pull it. If you see a burned area, there is the problem. If you pull back on the stalk and nothing happens, that points to a fuse and the big silver relay under the hood.

Hope this helps,

Paul








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91 240 wont start and no head lights 200

The ignition switch may be the problem, check for 12 volts at the blue/yellow (I think) wire at the starter solenoid with the key on the first position.

You can also try thunking the solenoid with a piece of 2 x2 wood to see if that unsticks it.

Dan








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91 240 wont start and no head lights 200

These are great ideas. I'll try "Service Socket" as soon as I can get help and I'll post back.

Is it difficult to replace the ignition switch on these cars?







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