I had the front suspension bushings replaced recently and the mechanic said that the ball joints needed attention soon, as well as new struts. The front end feels rather loose. I was looking into doing the ball joints and struts myself, so as not to spend 1000 bucks or so at the mechanics. My question is: if I'm replacing the ball joints that attach to the strut towers, is it likely that I'll need to replace the ball joints on the tie-rod ends as well? Do these things tend to wear out at the time, or are they totally separate? The parts themselves seem cheap enough, and if I'm going to be under there anyway and then paying for an alignment when I'm done, should I replace all of them? thanks. I've read the FAQ but I didn't see an answer to this...

I saw the title of this thread, and it reminded me of a post I read earlier. It made me think about part sources. here is the url below. Sorry, I have not been able to find a way to include photographs or hyper links that can be inserted , any help there would be great!

http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1421986/V70/analysis_v70_ball_joint_failure.html

Bruce, explain the "inboard" procedure on the ball joints; I don't see this in the Green Book. And there are only two ball joint fixing bolts, not three.
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See the 700/900 FAQ at the drop-down menu above right.

Sorry, I goofed and was thinking of the 3-bolt 240 ball joint mounting.

The post has been retracted.
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Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

thanks for the advice. I'm not sure if I understand what you mean by inboard, but maybe it will make sense to me when I'm installing the ball joints. Have you ever done the strut inserts? I read the FAQ and it looks like quite a time commitment...I'm wondering how involved it really is.

My mistake there. I was thinking of the 240 ball joints.

But still say no alignment needed when replacing 900 ones either.

Yes, the struts can take a lot of time the first time around. Plan on a weekend, assuming you have (and know how to use) spring compressors, and a tool for tightening the top strut nut (an air wrench will loosen it). Or the tool can be used for loosening too.

The tool I mentioned is available at JC Whitney.

It comes with instructions, and is basically a "counterhold" so you can loosen or tighten the top nut on the otherwise free spinning strut piston.

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Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

thanks everyone for the advice on the front suspension work. I may do it in stages, starting out with the ball joints and then doing the struts a little later (as funds come in...grad student here).

But concerning the selection of ball joints: I've read that you get what you pay for with these, and to avoid the cheap-o stuff. But does anybody know about the quality of TRW joints sold for $35 at FCP Groton? IPD only sells cheaper Scan-Tech parts, and I've read that those should be avoided. The local dealer wanted around 70 bucks for the OEM part.

"The local dealer wanted around 70 bucks for the OEM part."

The local dealer id to be avoided. Unless the price was for a pair of ball joints.

Tasca Volvo price is:

270477 $55.87(list) $0.00 $35.98 (internet price)
Front suspension - Lower control arm - Lower ball joint
Lower ball joint, all models - 740, 780, 940, 960 1991 - 1994

http://www.tascaparts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=searchCatalogOEM&siteid=213668

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Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.