Volvo RWD 140-160 Forum

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Theoretical suspension/tire question 140-160

Hi, Sorry if this turns out to be a long question, and a non Volvo one at that.
I have a 1980 Maserati Merak SS, (mid engine) which needs new tires. The original sizes were 205/70/15 rear and 185/70/15 front. I have always used 225/60/15 rear and 205/60/15 front. I have done this mostly because there are no performance oriented tires in the original sizes and now even the latter sizes the choices are getting very thin. I guess it will be easiest to list my questions and concerns.
A). Is a passenger tire in the original sizes equal or better than the original, (1980) Stock Michelin xwx?
B). I'd rather not spend for "new" XWX's from Corker as they are very pricey and would they be as good as a modern design anyway?
I should interject that I do not race or drive too agrressively, but I do want as much handling and braking performance without comprimising the nimbleness and handling balance.
C). Is sticking with the 225/60 and 205/60 set up the best comprimise for now, it seems adequate, but I do feel that I ma leaving some handling/braking performance on the table.

D). What I would really like to do, but not sure if I am opening a can of worms is Get some wheel adapters, (stock wheels use a very odd 4 lug by 5" bolt pattern), so I can use a 16" or 17" wheel thus make it easy to upgrade to a high performance summer tire of similar overall tire hight and width. BUT, How will this change all the design in suspension geometry? The wheels will be pushed out a bit on each corner and the tire aspect ratio would go from a stock 70 series to maybe a 55 or 50 series.
I know the ride will be harsher, but I am more concerned with nimbleness, and no funky handling, (as it is the rear can snap out very abruptly at the limit...though I don't do that anymore..lol)

Any thoughts?

Thanks!








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    Theoretical suspension/tire question 140-160

    I will respond to "D" specifically...

    Adapting to a different wheel bolt pattern does not necessarily mean you move the wheels outboard. You'll need to know what the offset is of the stock wheels and look for replacement wheels that have more offset (a higher negative number) and get that back to stock using the thickness of the adapter. For example...if the stock offset is -20(mm) and you buy replacement wheels with an offset of -45, you'll need adapters that are 25mm thick to bring the wheels back to the stock offset position. Some info regarding offset and backspacing can be found here...

    http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=101


    There are other factors as well. If the new wheels are wider than the stock wheels, you may need to add adapter thickness or look for different offsets in order to clear suspension components. Tire width will also play a role in clearance issues.

    One more thing to add...buying adapters does not necessarily mean you can go out and buy any wheel you want. You cannot adapt a 4-bolt pattern to a 5-bolt pattern, for instance, so your choice is limited, to a degree.



    --
    Dale








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    Theoretical suspension/tire question 140-160

    Just a quick reply - I have been told several times by tire people who are NOT selling me tires that "performance" tires are just that. If you plan on driving your car at really excessive speeds and under unusual conditions, like rallying, you need "performance" tires. But, if you are tooling on the weekends and holding her under 100mph, good old regular tires are enough. Remember, this is advice, not from me, but from others. I have been successful for over a year with regular tires on an Acura S3.2 that my wife drives, and she does NOT always drive the speed limit...

    --
    Kent - too much iron, too little time








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      Theoretical suspension/tire question 140-160

      Hi Kent,
      Thank you for the reply. I am almost always driving at it under 100 witht he occasional short burst to 100 or just a bit more. My highway fast speed is usually around the 80's, which around here is not all that unusual for a lot of drivers, includinr SUV's, mini vans, corolla's, uh, my '72 142. There is far mor efast traffic than I htink is really safe.
      I am more concerned with the braking and handling advantages, but will probably just go with something similar to whats on the car now. I don't want to spend a lot and end up with something worse. I am sure I can not do better than the original engineers.
      Thanks again







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