Hello Gentlemen,
Does anyone know if there are brighter dash bulbs available for 6V Volvos?
Thanks in advance.
Regards,
Jim

Am I missing something? I have the old 444/445 dash. I see only 3 dash bulb sockets for all guages - one in the middle for the speedo & one on each side of the speedo to serve the 2 guages on each side of the speedo. This just doesn't seem right. Am I missing dashbulb sockets? I can't seem to cast enough light over to light the 2nd gauge over on each side.....

Ok, I pulled the 3 dash bulbs - they are labeled "T51" with the number "8" underneath the "T51".
The best info. I could find is this:
http://tinyurl.com/2awn9up
Based upon this article I guess the bulbs are "51USA" & are 1.7 watts with a BA9s base (not sure, but that's my best guess).
I found the following LEDS for 6 volt systems with BA9s bases:
http://tinyurl.com/2g4o7zs
http://tinyurl.com/29fcxxm
I will let you know if they fit & if they are brighter than the "51USA".

I also agree with Ron. Clean everything and apply the paste. I have never found a place that sells the the (ACZP?) that he always refers to so I use dielectric grease on the connections. It's got to be better than nothing.

But I'm kind of surprised that you think the instrument lights are not bright enough. I find the illumination greater on my 6V '60 PV than my 12V '70 145. I suspect that you have a dirty connection somewhere.

Al;

ACZP* is commercial electrical grease (but not NOT DIELECTRIC!), required by electrical codes when connecting copper and aluminum conductors, to prevent galvanic corrosion...just because the term dielectric has "electric" in it does NOT make it suitable...DIelectric means: INSULATOR. Do not confuse the two! Putting an insulator between high current terminals, particularly like those in a 6V system, is not what's needed.

...and although any grease (including axle, or Vasoline or Dielectric), will encapsulate a connection and for instance keep any new moisture or battery acid from getting to the connection, it will also keep IN any moisture or corrosive agent which was included when the connection was first made, allowing this do do its dirty work...Baaaad!

That is why I recommend against the use of DIelectric grease. I do recommend using ACZP! ...because ACZP will prevent any new corrosion from starting, and stop any corrosion already in place because it acts as sacrificially to neutralize chemical reactions occurring between the main contact materials.

* You wont find ACZP per se anywhere because this is a generic term I use, short for Anti-Corrosive Zinc Paste (for further info and details, see: http://www.sw-em.com/anti_corrosive_paste.htm). The commercial name-brand I recommend, and what you want to ask for by name at the local commercial electrical supply house (not H*** D****) is: Penetrox by Burndy.

Electrical manufacturer Ideal also markets an anti-corrosive product and you will find it around, but this (honey consistency) material is much too low in viscosity ...it runs away from the application site (and that at room temp...it probably mimics melted butter at elevated or even engine compartment temps!), which makes it worthless for our needs, whereas the paste-like consistency of Penetrox keeps it it place (even overhead!)

Hope that makes it clearer, cheers!

ACZP. When I went looking for ACZP locally I had very little luck finding the Burdy Penetrox as everyone, including electrical supply houses seemed to carry the Ideal brand. I went to eBay and found a supp;ier who was selling 2 squeeze bottles-without looking about 8 or 10 ounces each-for $17. Enough to last a weekend warrior a long, long time. I keep one in the shop and one in the box with my electrical tools.

"Penetrox by Burndy... Hope that makes it clearer"

Indeed it does.
Thanks

Jim;

I have to ask if you have cleaned and tightened and assured lowest resistance of all of the electrical connections involved first before asking this...on 6V systems, were there is not much voltage to begin with, and certainly none extra to loose across poor connection, this is crucial!

....that will go a long way toward making the oe 6V lamps as bright as possible...and even the 6V lamps were pretty decent in brightness if they get all of the voltage, but if you are still not happy, then you can think about increasing the lamp wattage...many of these are available...but beware: More Wattage means more waste Heat for any other parts nearby (think damaged plastic or wire insulation)...or you could make up some LED based equivalents...nice thing about these is they done put out nearly as much waste heat as incandescents...but they would need to be made up...

Cheers

Hello,

If, after checking the connections as Ron suggests, you are still not happy with the brightness of the dash lights you can try the following.

You can bypass the rheostat for the dash lights.

And if you can afford them, there are 6 volt LED bulbs available, if they fit.

I mentioned fit because we have purchased some of the brighter 12 volt LEDs for some of our customers.

Brighter LEDs usually means more LEDs per bulb which increases their size.

It turned out we could not use the brighter bulbs as the bulbs were too big.

We did settle for lower brightness LEDs as they are brighter than standard bulbs and of course did fit without modifications.

--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502