Hi everyone, I'm going to look at a 95 960 this week. I'm not really familiar with the 960's at all. Is there anything specific I should look for in regards to typical problems? Thanks, John

Dried up wire harnesses, where entering the valve cover( if dry there, they will be crispy underneath and will nead replace)hoses to the oil cooler. Not a deal killer, but often neglected and if so will need to be replaced immidiately.
If the fuel rail is bolted directly to the manifold it is original and will leak out the ends eventually. If it is mounted on two, 3" standoffs, then it is the new replacement style and it has already been corrected ( as I am currently having to do with mine :-) . Lots of vacuum fittings, make sure they are OK
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-------Robert,'95 960, '93 940t, '90 240 wagon, '84 240 diesel (she's sick) , '80 245 diesel, '86 740 GLE turbo diesel, '92 Ford F350 diesel dually

Here is what I would do to a new 960. You could work backwards from this to see what has already bee done. Hope this helps.

What to do With a New To You Volvo 960
$1469

1. Timing Belt, tensioner, idler pully, spring damper, water pump ($550)

2. Replace Flame trap & seal ($10)

3. Replace serpentine belt ($35)

4. Clean throttle body, IAC with throttle body cleaner ($10)

5. Check codes, record, clear all

6. Test/replace battery ($130)

7. Replace oil filler cap gasket ($4.00)

8. Replace brake pads, slider pin boots, clean & lube slider pins, calipers ($100)

9. Spark plugs ($38)

10. Air filter ($40)

11. Vacuum elbows ($2.00 each)

12. Oil, filter, 10w30 ($40)

13. Replace fuel filter ($25)

14. Flush transmission fluid using rad line, Dexron III atf ($70)

15. Flush coolant, use Volvo blue, 50/50, water/coolant ($40)

16. Silicone spray rubber door, hood, trunk seals ($5)

17. Consider getting car detailed, esp engine shampoo. Makes it easier to see leaks, preserves hoses, vacuum elbows, easier to work on ($220)

18. After above, consider getting car appraised. It is an older car, and an appraisal will help preserve it’s value in the eyes of insurers ($150 1st time, $65 after that)

19. Check: engine mounts, control arm bushings, sway bars, rad hoses, upper rad neck, brake flex lines, parking brake condition, tie rod assembly

Get the Owner's Manual. Get at least one remote lock/unlock fob.

The engine is a very interference engine, unlike the very forgiving B230. Therefore the history must be available and indicate when, date and mileage, the timing and serpentine belts and their idler and tensioner pulleys were last replaced. Since the water pump is driven by the timing belt you should know when that was last replaced, too.

Losing either belt will damage the engine, maybe quite severely.

Is the check engine light on? There may also be (as on my 1997 965) a light for transmission problems, ABS problem, air bag system problems.

Is the emission test sticker/certificate current? If not, accompany the seller while the car is inspected/tested. On the 1997 a lighted CEL light can be caused to stay dark by disconnecting the battery for 30 min or so. In Texas the car can be then tested but use of the dynamometer is required. In a week or so of driving the CEL light will come back on, leaving you - the unsuspecting buyer - stuck with the repair.

That's what come to mind now, there's more.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)