I recently replaced my Bilstein HD's becasue they were just too harsh. I put in OEM replacements and now I have a banging and clicking noise from the rear. I remember that the mechanic said that he had a hell of a time getting the Bilsiens in because they were a little thicker than the OEM ones. He even had to grind on them to decrease the circumference. Do you think that it is possible that the new OEM replacements have "slack" for lackof a better word?
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1990 240- 285K- Original Owner-M-47, VX cam, bilstiens, turbo exh, euro lamps,- still slow but handles well- Near Houston- also 2004 XC90 T5 AWD

Hi,


Do you have the Bilstein HD Rear Shocks? I'd like to buy them.

I am having a hard time controlling my wagon overload springs with the original shocks from 77'


Goatman

Hey Goatman,
Sure, do you want all four? I will sell all for for $240.00. They were not used but for about 4-5 months. That will include shipping. Plus I thought that number was appropriate...
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1990 240- 285K- Original Owner-M-47, VX cam, bilstiens, turbo exh, euro lamps,- still slow but handles well- Near Houston- also 2004 XC90 T5 AWD

Hi,


I already have new fronts. How much for just the rears?


Goatman

I had this issue when I installed a set of Bil HD's on my car. Kept messing with the shock mounts. Messed around with it for a couple of weeks with no cure, until I watchd as the car was pushed up and down, and I noticed something.

The top rear shock mount has two nuts - one on the shock side that holds the shock on, and another one on the other side of the subframe that holds the shock mount to the subframe. When installing them I only messed with the shock side, and I'd apaprently inadvertently loosened the nut on the other side of the frame, and the shock mounts itself was rattling in the frame. Tightened that, and the clunks went away.
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'63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic #1141 245 (now w/16V turbo)

I second the Boge issue. If yours are Boge as were mine, no amt of torquing would fix it. The issue with some of the Boge's, I think mine were mfg in Turkey, was the hole where the bolt goes through was a wee bit too large in diameter allowing the shock to jiggle over the bolt and the noise was transmitted into the car. I returned my Boges' and purchased the OE version of KYB and lived quietly ever after.

I'd take it back to the mechanic to be retorqued first. Its possible he forgot to tighten something. Its not uncommon for the lower shock bolt to need to be retorqued. I think 65ftlbs is barely enough for that bolt. I replaced rear Bilstein HD's with Koni yellows and after 9 weeks I'm noticing some banging to.

watch the bolt and nut VERY closely when you torque. that double ended shock bolt has a habit of breaking.

So other than being harsh, there weren't any clanks from the rear end previously?

If that is the case, you might've gotten a bad shock in back. Some of the Boge OEM replacements have been discussed as rattling on the board previously - search the archives. If the noise isn't caused by the new shocks, you've got a couple of bushings to look at in the rear that cause banging and clunking - rear trailing arm bushings (RTABs) can be suspect - and from your sig at 285k, they may be due for their second change if they were initially changed at 150k. Likewise, your torque rod bushings can make a racket, but with your other upgrades, you may already have poly there.