Problem: Key works fine if left in place. If removed, no telling how long it will take jiggling and cajoling to get it to turn. Yesterday, I ended up removing all the shrouding, applying heat with a heat gun and tapping the side of the cylinder with a tack hammer! I could use it like this, BUT, it might not pass inspection, and, after decades of training, its hard NOT to pull out the key. One slip up and you are in deep do do.
Question: Has anyone managed to remove and replace a cylinder? Bentley shows how to remove the whole lock mechanism, which involves removing the steering column and special volvo tools (which I am very reluctant to attempt). The 700 and 900 series supposedly has a brass colored button to depress, but I've got everything disassembled and with lights and mirrors, cannot find any such button. I've combed the internet extensively, nada.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Well, a big thank you to everyone who helped me with this puzzle. I tried to drill the pins so that I could insert a small screw and pull on the screw, but the steel that those pins are made of just laughed at my new cobalt drill bit. So I ended up using the dremel and hacking away (half dentistry, half butchery) until I had enough exposed that I could grab onto. When I started the project, I was looking for a pin to depress, so - you guessed it - I depressed the *!@# of of those suckers, first with a pick then with a small punch and hammer, making the task of removing them more challenging since they were now quite recessed. After the pins were removed, with the key in KPII, a few taps outward on a chisel that was catching the shoulder of the cylinder and the thing popped out and hit me in the chin!
I wouldn't use graphite in a steel lock,that's for brass cylinders.
Use CLP break free.
This is a common problem with 140's at 30 to 40 years of age.
240's are coming of age as well.
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71-145-S
I've been hoping you'll get an experienced reply so I can learn too.
I have this lock in my hands, but still can't answer your question. Pretty sure I could after destroying it, but it is from an 83 and part of a complete set, and I still own two 83's. No amount of poking or prodding the two exposed features near the front of the cylinder in any key positions has revealed anything to me.
If I get hold of one I can sacrifice, my first approach will be to dremel a bit of the pot metal away from that pin in the side to see if I can get purchase on the pin to extract it. That is, unless someone provides a better method before I do.
The pin simply has to be removed. Of course removing the pin is not that simple.
My locksmith explained it to me when I laid one on his counter. Use whatever tools you can make work to remove the material that surrounds the pin. Then get a grip on the pin and pull it out. He suggested prying on both sides of the pin at the same time- levering it out.
Locksmiths have an interesting assortment of tools and obviously the ones for this task must be hard and small.
A dremel with the right bit can remove the area around the pin. I am not sure what to recommend for prying/pulling out the pin. I had success using two small very sharp wood chisels angled in at about 45 degrees and prying.
Every time I look at that pin I think of the root canal I had 20 years ago. Maybe a carbide circuit board drill, or one of Paul's famous diamond bits, well centered, and then that 0x80 tap (that some watchmaker must have left me), chucked into a mini slide hammer. Wait, no, don't use the tap with impact -- find a 0x80 screw or some self-tapper from an old hard drive, to fit!
I put this on my yard list for a future challenge. I've seen this question come up over the years. Never a clear method though. Sheer dentistry.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
I tried drilling out around that pin a couple of years ago on my spare. My plan was to rekey it so one key would work for both of my 240s. I didn't get the pin out, and like you, I did not want to destroy my spare. I do remember that the casing was very hard to drill.
I am a bit of a pack rat so I now have 3 spare colums, so I should give it a try again sometime
I can't help with just the cylinder removal but i did just remove the whole lock mechanism from my 91-240 without removing the steering wheel,i used an angle grinder with a metal cutting blade.I cut it on each side of the steering column and removed it that way,then I installed an assembly from an earlier 240 (late 80s)that actually comes in two pieces and does not require the steering column tear down.getting the antitheft bolts unscrewed is very easy,they are not very tight.
Thanks so much for your responses. (To Jorrell, I actually got an original key _with the numbers stamped-from the previous owner...same results)
But to stripping 90, I would love to pick your brain about your experience!
Once you got the old lock mechanism out, did you notice any device that holds the cylinder in? I have not yet removed the switch from the rear of the apparatus (hoping to pull the cylinder) maybe I should remove that next and try tapping from behind while in KP II.
Did you get your replacement from a junk yard? Did it come with a key? Did you ever consider drilling?
Anyway, thanks again for your help...its good to know that if needed, I can chop the old lock mechanism out without dealing with the air bag, steering wheel, etc. etc.
Thanks so much for your responses. (To Jorrell, I actually got an original key _with the numbers stamped-from the previous owner...same results)
But to stripping 90, I would love to pick your brain about your experience!
Once you got the old lock mechanism out, did you notice any device that holds the cylinder in? I have not yet removed the switch from the rear of the apparatus (hoping to pull the cylinder) maybe I should remove that next and try tapping from behind while in KP II.
Did you get your replacement from a junk yard? Did it come with a key? Did you ever consider drilling?
Anyway, thanks again for your help...its good to know that if needed, I can chop the old lock mechanism out without dealing with the air bag, steering wheel, etc. etc.
Yes, I've pumped a bunch of graphite into it. I've also heard that electrical contact cleaner might help. Maybe the P.O. put some petroleum lubricant in that has turned gummy and is keeping one or more of the "pins" from falling into place. I might have to hunt down some of that stuff.
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