I think I may have inadvertently found the root of my bad running Volvo.
The neighbors dog that consumed the drivers side mudflap front wheel. while laying on ground I looked over at the new oxygen sensor and noted no wires attached to the 3 coming out of sensor, WTF I recalled wife pointing out a cord hanging out from rear of engine bay, I pulled up and tied around the nearest item to keep off ground. Promptly forgot. Now I need to figure out which wires go to where. The new shop manual I ordered has NOT arrived yet. BTW I took care of this hungry dog, This won't be an issue in the future. I gave him a Christian burial. just kidding.
Any of the old wizards have an idea which wire goes where?
My direct email is credit_repair1060@yahoo.com or if You'd prefer telling me one on one what an idiot I am my residence phone is: 808-982-6268
Thank you in advance for your anticipated help with this matter. Bill

Beware of my leaky memory - that said there should be two white wires that are to heat the sensor and one black wire that "talks" to the computer.

The white ones are easy, just hook up white to white.

Hope this helps.

Bob

:>)

Bob, I'll be firing this car of this AM thanks for input. Bill

Bob, thanks for input I'll connect these up in a bit and see how car runs and report results.

Two white wires get connected to two white wires, doesn't matter which (they just form a loop through a heating element in the sensor). The remaining black wire goes to the black wire - it actually carries the signal.
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'63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic #1141 245 (now w/16V turbo)

John, did you install one of those B 230 16V turbo motors in your brick?
What did this come out of? Like what model car years, etc? looks like "THE"
ENGINE TO GET SOME MIND NUMBING RPM'S How did the install go.

What seems to have happened here in Hawaii, the Stealer relocated from Big Island to Oahu(honolulu) where they presently operate. Thus no new sales on the Big Island. & no actually competent Volvo mechanics here only shade tree parts changers. So the current stock of Volvos are slowly falling apart. The gent I bought this car from is typical of the deals that occur here. The original owner bought wagon new in Honolulu, and kept this car well maintained in garage, serviced at correct intervals, real exemplary care. Original gent sold to Native
who started taking car to the inept shade tree wrenches, so car slowly falls apart
this fellow, (the native) spent over $3,500 I have all receipts car still running like S...t I cross paths with native he offers to sell me car for cheap, I go inspect and observe the museum quality of this car, we struck a deal I drove car home 10MPH EVENTUALLY RAISING UP TO 40 MPH. I found, fuel pump relay dead, fuel filter required changing, the 3 wires to the new oxygen sensor never connected, I've with the boards members help corrected everything I've encountered so far.
My point is many newer Volvos with minor issues for cheap for sale because it is too costly to put your Volvo on a barage and ship to Honolulu then a tow to dealer for competent & pricy wrenches. Doubt this assertion. go to Craig's List Hawaii look your self. If you're a Volvo mechanic and bright hard working come to paradise and live. The big Island. The one and only INEPT MECHANIC CHARGES $105 p.h. FOR GUESSING WHAT IS THE MATTER WITH YOUR VOLVO. Bill
check out Volvos for sale any island except Oahu

It's a B234 head on a B230 block.

The 16V B234 motor came only in 89 and 90 740 GLE models, and the 91 940 GLE model. It was a somewhat short lived experiment, a sort of sneak preview of the head that later appeared (in 5 cylinder form) on the 850 motor.

I had lots of fun with the tweaked turbo motor in my 245, eventually had a little too much fun (25 psi of boost, some pinging, some bent rods) and blew up the motor. So onward and upward, I build a much stronger bottom end (H beam rods and forged pistons) and put the 16V head on top.

The whole 16V motor isn't easy to put in a 240 - it would take custom motor mounts, and some sort of distributor-less engine management system. Just putting the head on top of the B230 block that fits into the car solves some problems, leaves some others. Some notable issues - intake manifolds don't fit, turbo exhaust manifolds don't really exist for practical purposes (there are a few odd factory manifolds made for certain Euro markets, but they're very rare). And you need something to tension the timing belt (B230 has the tensioner on the head, B234 has it on the block, combination of B230 block and B234 head has neither).

All in all, not that hard of a project, depending on your level of wrenching. It's getting off the bolt-on realm of mechanicking, though. But Yoshifab's bolt on tensioner kit, for example, makes it easier now than it used to be.

New 16V turbo makes more HP on less boost than the 8V eve did (even when it was trying so hard it blew up). It dynoed 304 hp at the wheels (which is something like 330, 340 at the crank) a couple of months ago. Car runs low 13's when I take it to the track.

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'63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic #1141 245 +t

John, thanks for input I'll get those connected up and hope it solves the funny
bucking and no power issue.