Another question on the Volvo.

Background:
It's got a T9 transmission swap, so I don't know for sure what's in it overall. It appears to be an early style driveshaft, as the support is held up by two rubber bushings with pins through them.
The u-joints are pretty small and apparently I've already cracked one in 5000 miles of driving (and that was before I took the car apart to re-engineer the swap that was started when I bought it...)

Questions:
what changed in the drivetrain over the years, most specifically in respect to the 1965 models and later years? Can I use a later driveshaft without significant re-working? Especially because I have a swapped transmission and until I get home (2 weeks...) I won't know the details on how exactly that swap was completed (custom yoke to Volvo u-joint? conversion u-joint? redrilled for flange-to-flange adapter?). I see the 1967 or so and up vehicles used a larger u-joint which looks like it might be compatible with the '80s Ford u-joints?

Thanks!

Ben

P.S. While we're at it...anyone got a measurement from the firewall (specifically the front of the heater box) up to the radiator, and another from the heater core outlet over to the inner corner of the battery box? I'm thinking of making a little bent tubing for my coolant return and I'd like a guess at how much to order...

On my T5 swap i used the front drive shaft. I had it shortened and a ford u joint welded to it. dave.

Our guesses as to what is on your modified Volvo are totally worthless.
You will need to measure what you have got and buy to fit.
Same is pretty much true for your water fittings. If you get a bunch of stuff
based on other people's measurements (and assumptions) you will end up with a
bunch of stuff you either can't use or can only use with substantial modifications.

(Ask me how I know this!)
I found that even taking my own measurements was anything but foolproof!

While you're quite right; I'm ordering steel tubing. When I get home I'll be bending and flaring it to fit. At around $11/foot for stainless, though, I'd like to know if I can get by with 3, 5 or need more feet. Since I'll only have a few days at home, I'd sort of like to order it and have it waiting when I get there. I really want to get the engine running when I'm home this time.

As for the driveshaft, since I'm told you can't easily swap the rear half of the late driveshaft to the front of the early; nor can you swap the whole assembly, it means I'll just drop off the driveshaft at my local specialist with a flange to match the new rear axle.

So I agree with you, I can't build a car while blindfolded (so to speak) I'm handicapped by having to make plans based on a few photographs I take before I go, and when I'm home, if I have to order parts, they don't arrive until after I've left again. That's one of the other major reasons I've been building the car to take parts off of more commonly stocked shelves. While the Volvo aftermarket is quite good, I'm a moving target.

Meaning I'm going about this the wrong way, but I accept that it's better than doing nothing. I sure don't recommend this path for anyone else, it's been 2 years since I've driven the car (and my Mercury has been waiting on an engine since 2003!...but that's yet another completely oddball build...at least the Volvo parts I don't have to have imported from Australia!).

Ben

What I can tell you--the small U-joints using the 1/4 inch bolts on the flange are also listed for the MGB. The larger U-joint as used in the later 240's also fit some Chevy models. -- Dave