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My Brick is dead and I can't get it to start!
Ok, just finished some major work on my tank.
Early last November it blew the plug out of the rear of the head. Since I knew I wanted to replace some seals soon, I decided to put it off until later.
Well later came about two weeks ago where I pulled the intake and exhaust manifolds off as well as the head.
I replaced both engine mounts, the head gasket, intake and manifold gasket, and since I cleaned the throttle body and intake manifold I replaced the throttle body gasket as well. Also permatexed in a new plug for the head.
finally I replaced the valve cover gasket as well. In putting everything back together I put a small amount of dielectric grease in every electrical connection I could see so as to make a nice connection impervious to any precipitation.
Fired it back up and brought it up to running temperature and all seemed well. It had an exhaust leak between the cat and the first muffler which I thought I fixed Sunday night, but I'm getting ahead of myself.
I drove it for about 18 miles and noticed that I still had an oil leak.
After further inspection it was determined that I had set the valve cover gasket improperly, so off it came and on went a new one.
I then proceeded to roll it down my driveway and let it sit there until Tuesday when I got home from work to see if I was successful. Well to make an already long story short, hopefully, I had to start it up and move it and upon starting it it ran just fine and then I put it into reverse and it started to move and then just died. The exhaust leak/sound that I thought I fixed, was still there. Might have to wait till it is up and running before I get it up on a lift to inspect further.
I've been on the phone with my mechanic and I've investigated the following:
- I have spark, checked this as the wire end to the spark plug.
- I have gas flowing as I checked the relay and fuse 4 and 6. checked the pump and both work and pump fuel. By the way, fuse 4, does nothing, or at least I get no voltage across that one. I think the volvo documentation is wrong here, but please, someone correct me if I'm wrong here.
- Checked fuse 13 to the fuel injection and its fine and I'm getting voltage across it. The under hood fuse (25A) is fine as well. Haven't checked the voltage there yet, but I'm assuming I have voltage there. Will hopefully check it tomorrow.
So there you have it. Oh, yeah I also replaced the distributor cap and rotor, but I'm getting spark, so I don't think that is a problem.
So again, there you have it. Please help! I don't want to have it towed to my mechanic. I have a few more things to check out of my Chilton and Haynes manual, but I'm quickly running out of rabbit holes to go down.
Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Matt
aka thebricktank
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What is the condition of the crank position sensor?
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89 240 Wagon 225K, 94 940 190K
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most likely original. Would the engine even crank if this was bad??
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If the crank position sensor fails while the engine is running, will the engine die immediately?
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If the crank position sensor fails while the engine is running, will the engine die immediately?
Yes, if it fails completely.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
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Art & other responders,
Purchased a new CPS from NAPA. I tested the old one and the new one with an Ohm meter and I have found/determined them to be identical.
Yes, I didn't plug the new one in as NAPA would not take it back once plugged into the system so I opted to check it with an Ohm meter instead.
I got the same results on both. I re-installed the old one after cleaning off all the oil with Gunk engine brite before I re-inserted it. Still no change.
Here is what I know and what I've done so far:
1. Car cranks, no ignition.
2. I've checked the fuel pumps and they both pump. I hear the whirring sound when I let off the key.
3. I HAVE spark at all 4 spark plugs.
4. Checked all 4 injectors and I am reading 16.8 Ohms on each one, so according to Chilton that should be fine.
5. Moved intake manifold grounds to the fuel rail as outlined in Chilton & Haynes manuals.
6. Cleaned up ground from firewall to passenger side of the valve cover.
What I plan to do tomorrow:
1. Attack the ECU (I suppose this is the Jettronic marked box on the right passenger side of the car.
2. check coolant temperature sensor
3. cold start injector
4. Check throttle switch
5. check air mass meter, and the
6. air control valve
7. fuel line pressure regulator
Have I missed anything????
Just rambling here but I know I have gas flowing (A question about gas flowing is ) and spark, but is it really getting through the fuel injectors? This is what I don't know and I don't know how to test this. What should I be looking for at the injector connectors?
Please advise.
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The CPS counts stuff and sends out electrical impulses based on what it sees. I would be really surprised if you could determine whether one was bad by simply measuring resistance. I'd try the new one before moving on to something else...
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Dale
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Tried New CPS this afternoon.
Same response.
Car still dead.
Moving on...
to next option...
Any thoughts...
A 12 Gauge is quickly coming to mind!
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Just a thought about your past posts.
You said you had the head off and greased all the connectors.
I thought a slipped or bad connection inside the firewall conector.
Then I jumped, to a slipped timing belt. Maybe the tensioner was not set up tight with the belt or the bracket not tightened down flush with its backside onto the block.
Just might be worth a peek.
Phil
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Ok, I couldn't wait till Wednesday or Thursday night to get to this.
Got home from work about 3:40. By 3:45 I had the fan, belts and top of the housing cover off. I then turned the crank until I could see the cam sprocket line up at TDC. Then I peered down into the lower portion of the timing belt cover and there staring me in the face was another dot on the sprocket to the right.
Oh my GOSH, what a freaking IDIOT I AM!!
The bad news is, there isn't any!
The good news is the brickboard rocks, as usual.
Upon re-setting up my timing I came inside to get the torque setting for the crank pulling and was looking through the FAQ and came across a picture of what all three positions should be and well I had the bottom one completely wrong. I'm surprised it ran at all. I was a good half a sprocket off at least once I set it up correctly. Just unbelievable.
I believe what the original problem with the timing belt was that I forgot to set the tension on the tensioner when I put it all back together. Amazing it ran as long as it did the first time.
Once I put it back together and put all my tools back I ran down and cranked it a few times and it roared back to life. I can't believe that I missed that. Probably need to slow down a bit more and not rush things.
Any who, now I can continue to check for leaks and hopefully put it all back together by this weekend.
Again, thanks for everyone who chimed in. I'm so glad that this resource exists. It make me just a little bit richer.
Regards,
Matt
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I am glad you found out that it was worth a peek.
I was just sitting on the sidelines, like a fly on the wall. I imagined if this could happen to me, if I had done as much work as you did.
I think you painted this picture for me, as I might do it too. You forgot to pull the pin out to release the spring onto the belt. Questionable, if this is even a good habit, with grenades!
If you read the procedure, you will see that they recommend rolling the engine around a few turns and recheck all the notches, grooves and dots to line up on the engine before calling it all good to go.
On a new belt, I loosen and torque the tension bearing after about 50 miles. You can do this through the grommet access hole in the cover.
How much it actually make a difference, is anyone’s guess.
Thanks for the post back to all of us. We all are not carpenters or even mechanics. However, on some occasions, we can nail it.
Phil
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No slipped timing belt as far as I could tell. I did think that maybe it might have come off, but no, its still on. I can pull things off and check just to make sure, but don't think that to be the case.
However, if that is the case, it hasn't slipped far. I guess it doesn't have to slip far for it to stop completely.
I can't check it until Wednesday afternoon or Thursday at the latest.
I'll let you all know once I know more.
I now have pine cars to work on for my son.
Later,
Matt
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No slipped timing belt as far as I could tell. I did think that maybe it might have come off, but no, its still on. I can pull things off and check just to make sure, but don't think that to be the case.
However, if that is the case, it hasn't slipped far. I guess it doesn't have to slip far for it to stop completely.
I can't check it until Wednesday afternoon or Thursday at the latest.
I'll let you all know once I know more.
I now have pine cars to work on for my son.
Later,
Matt
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Is there a way to test that it is bad???
I just removed it and it was covered in oil.
Any chance just cleaning it off might allow it all to work again??
Thanks in advance,
Matt
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Yeah, clean oily CPS. Check wire insulation etc.
Stop that oil leak - maybe from back end of valve cover?
DogsrGood
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Art,
How've you been?
Interesting about the crank position sensor.
Will check it out and report back to everyone.
Thanks!
Matt
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Sounds like when it went into reverse the engine torqued over the other way and pulled a wire off somewhere. Check the ground connections on the head...
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Dale
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I know of three (3. Two black ones on the intake manifold side which are connected to the valve cover. One stranded one on the exhaust manifold side which is connected to the firewall.
I must admit that this stranded one was disconnected at the time, but I have since hooked it back up.
Are there any others that I'm missing?
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Ok, was looking through my Haynes manual last night and saw a picture that showed the 2 black grounds from the fuel injector side being attached to the intake manifold and NOT to the valve cover.
Could this really make a difference???? I can't believe it would as I drove it for 18-20 miles once I had it up and running again.
Any comments???
I'm at least gonna try moving them to where they should be in hopes that it fixes it.
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When you turn the key to II do all your warning lights on the dash go on? If not you might have lost ground to the alternator. Look in FAQ
Dogs
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all warning lights come on except for the oil pressure light. It has gone bad again and will need to be replaced once I get it up and running. It seems that once I get it wet it goes bad. Don't ask me why, it just does. Not sure where it is made or who makes it, but this will be the third one I've replaced in a little over a year.
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I had a simular issue with a non-starting 83 240.
What my problem turned out to be was my 'block sensor'
first the wiring (plug) was bad, then when I fixed
the wiring the sensor itself crumbled in my hand as
I attempted to plug the wiring into it. I replaced
the block sensor and she startered right up.
Check the wiring at this sensor, it plugs into the
engine right below fuel injector 3 & 4.
Please do let us know what the final fix is..
I know you will find it soon.
Joseph in New Mexico
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