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Should I flush and fill a gearbox with a cheeper oil (Automatic Type F) from a big box store, then drain after 500 miles of usage and fill with Volvo Dealership transmission oil/Redline MTL... or keep just the generic oil in and leave it.. Or, fill it with Redline MTL/Dealership oil right away and just leave it?... any thoughts?
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No need to "flush" the trans before refilling with whatever good stuff you choose. A manual trans doesn't have the small passages and nooks and crannies of an automatic. Just drain it hot AFTER being sure you can remove the filler plug, as Tony H said.
I'll add to the Redline MTL fan club. I have used this in 3 Volvo's over many years and miles and observed (not just imagined) improved performance in shifting, OD operation (the latter on M46). Redline have apparently changed the name a little. It is "MTL 70W80", as they are also offering thicker versions which are not what you want for the M47.
The alternative is to go with fluid as per the owner's manual guidelines. Whichever, M47 gurus here advise to tilt the car up on the left side so you can slightly overfill the trans, as it has a rather small fluid capacity.
--
Bob: son's 81-GL, dtr's '94-940, my 83-DL, 89-745(V8) and 98-S90. Also 77-MGB and some old motorcycles.
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Hello All
i made up a couple different size hoses until the hose just barely fits into the fill hole which allows to overfill as the size of hose keeps the fluid from
running back out while overfilling.
then hurry and put the fill plug back in before fluid leaks out.
works for me.
good luck
mIke
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Make sure you can remove the 'Fill' Plug before draining the fluid.
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/
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Use Dexron if you have to run ATF.
I'll 2nd (or third?... or fourth?) the Redline MTL. Good stuff.
Check the two bushings between the shifter and linkage under the car. Those go back, and make shifting funky. Common BrickBoard advice is to adjust the reverse detent plate, but that's a bad idea for the long run. Bushings are easy and cheap.
The drain and fill plugs have magnets on them inside, so any metallic bits aren't gonna be circulating for long.
-Ryan
--
Athens, Ohio 1987 245 DL 324k, Dog-hauler 1990 245 DL 142k M47, E-codes, GT Sways/Braces, Dracos, A-cam 1990 744GLE 189K 16-valve 1991 745 GL 304k
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yes, Redline MTL sounds good. I never thought about the bushings, I'll check into that.
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Dexron in the M47 II? Let us all know the specification supporting your assertion to use Dexron in the M47 II transmission. All I see is ATF Type F.
The Volvo factory spec fluid for the M47 II is a derivation of the Ford Type F specific to the M47 II. I dunno the spec number or Volvo part number.
Really, Dexron in an M47 II tranny that has been lubricated with Type F or a derivation, if not the Volvo spec M47 II fluid, since manufacture? Really?
Now, what DEXRON version? Type I or Type II or III or IV or V? The Volvo 240 power steering pump uses DEXRON type II. Okay, why not flush that power steering pump and fill with Type F? It is your same logic.
The 700-900 FAQ list a proper manual tranny draining and flush procedure.
In this thread, we've mentioned:
- Verify you can remove the M47 II fill plug FIRST.
- May help to lower the auto and lift the passenger (right) side to facilitate a complete drain.
- Use a six-point socket to remove/install the plugs.
- Inspect the fluid and any bits that come out. Refer to this and other boards for symptoms of tranny abuse like excessive silvery, sparkly flakes in the spent oil.
- Inspect the drain and fill plugs. The plugs vary by design. Usually, the drain plug comes magnet-equipped. Better that both are magnet equipped. Some drain/fill plugs have a magnet bump. The better M47 drain/fill plugs have a conically-shaped magnet that is recessed with more magnet surafec area. You really have to dig down to get the silvery spent metal flakes out. Verify all metal flakes are out and it is clean.
- Inspect the copper washers. Replace if badly distorted or excessively flattened.
- Verify the surfaces that seal against the copper washer - the underside of the drain/fill plug and tranny exterior are immaculately clean, smooth, and free of any scratches, else it'll leak. Some have use a little RTV either side of the copper washer in the event the aluminum alloy surface on the tranny exterior is corroded or scratched. Copper is more noble than aluminum and can corrode before the copper does.
I still think it's a real riot no one mention there's no synchro on on the M47 reverse gear. Funny, that.
Hope the info helps your decisions. Dexron in an M47 II. OKAY!
Oh, and I use Amsoil in everything. Even the the front wheel hub bearings.
In all three of my M47 II, I've filled it with Amsoil ART:
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/art.aspx
The Redline MTL is also fully synthetic and slightly lighter than the Amsoil.
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=45&pcid=7
Compare the data of the two at the bottom of each page. The Amsoil is slightly lighter yet has a slightly lower cold pour and higher flash points than the Redline MTL.
They all shift like a quiet light switch. They all run cool down the I-5 to the SF Grey Area (Bay - grey fro the fog, er, uh smaug). Well, far cooler than the mineral oil that filled it before.
The 1992 240 GL had been abused and the tranny showed it with each shift. On draining, the fluid was brown and a small, yet a small and shocking gear tooth piece came out also. To flush the tranny, I used brake parts cleaner through the fill hole, sprayed all around in short squirts and captured the what remained of any fluid and smegma until clean. Maybe a quarter of the can. Let dry over night, than refill with Amsoil
Yes, if I had my druthers, I'd like to research and rewrite the 700-900 FAQ and write a 200 FAQ of like scope and detail.
Wot's all the huh-bub, bub?
cheers,
Volvo "Buttermilk" MacDuff - Unemployed Technical Writer since 13 Jan 2010.
No worries, Wall Street will send my next job to India and China. Meanwhile, the daft U.S. citizenry consume, consume, consume.
--
I've owned only Volvo 240s since 1985.
RIP, yet beloved:
1975 244 DL (B20, M40)
1976 242 DL (B21, M46, Moonroof - an SRO?)
1979 245 DL (B21, M46)
1979 242 GT (B21, M46, Moonroof - an SRO? Grey Market from Holland)
Currently owned, beloved, operating, and getting better all the time(!):
1990 240 (245) DL (B230, M47 II)
1991 240 (244) (B230, M47 II, Moonroof. Grey Market from Germany)
1992 240 (244) GL (B230, M47 II, L-jet 3.1, Moonroof)
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Still, no need to dump on another BB'er in in such a fashion. It comes across as verbose and pompous...possibly you didn't mean it that way, but stay civil and conserve the bandwidth.
--
Bob: son's 81-GL, dtr's '94-940, my 83-DL, 89-745(V8) and 98-S90. Also 77-MGB and some old motorcycles.
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Yes, sorry, it is much to be something that is nothing anyone deserves my delivering up in a brusque tone and all.
I'd rather he use a type F if an intermediate step in a manual M47 (II?) tranny flush.
I used regular brake parts cleaner and sprayed back and fourth to flush what remained. The auto left side was lower to facilitate a drain action while spraying. Maybe 1/3 a can or less. Let evaporate overnight (it was 40 degrees F). Reset the raised auto by placing tyres back on the right side, raise on the left side and fill with your fave M47 tranny looooby loooooby.
The IPD garage sale is this Sat-Your-Day 21 May 2011 and I'll miss that, too, again.
Tell all your friends and all you care for that enjoy a culturally and socially rich town to stay away, far, far, away, from Slumkane, Spookylou, Dungkane, woops, Spokane WA.
Fukushima radioactivity reaching N. America? We don't worry in NuclearKane as we are downwind from the Hanford site in SE WA-state.
Sorry and cheers,
Happy Friday,
Kittys Grey Volvo "Buttermilk" Mac Duff.
--
"As a film, Thor (2011) was just okay. At least Stan Lee made a cameo."
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Yes, sorry, it is much to be something that is nothing anyone deserves my delivering up in a brusque tone and all.
I'd rather he use a type F if an intermediate step in a manual M47 (II?) tranny flush.
I used regular brake parts cleaner and sprayed back and fourth to flush what remained. The auto left side was lower to facilitate a drain action while spraying. Maybe 1/3 a can or less. Let evaporate overnight (it was 40 degrees F). Reset the raised auto by placing tyres back on the right side, raise on the left side and fill with your fave M47 tranny looooby loooooby.
The IPD garage sale is this Sat-Your-Day 21 May 2011 and I'll miss that, too, again.
Tell all your friends and all you care for that enjoy a culturally and socially rich town to stay away, far, far, away, from Slumkane, Spookylou, Dungkane, woops, Spokane WA.
Fukushima radioactivity reaching N. America? We don't worry in NuclearKane as we are downwind from the Handford site in SE WA-state.
Sorry and cheers,
Happy Friday,
Kittys Grey Volvo "Buttermilk" Mac Duff.
--
"As a film, Thor (2011) was just okay. At least Stan Lee made a cameo."
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That's what I did when I first got my 1990 245 m47. Believe I ran the type F for 2000 miles or so.
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Type F = not acceptable for M47 transmissions. There's some special, expensive as hell factory fluid that you can only get from the Dealer, and I've been told ATF is a good way to wreck your M47 in a hurry. Please check my facts on this, but I heard it from someone on the board.
I would just check the fluid and see how it looks. The stuff I pulled out of my M46 looked like silver fleck nail polish. It was definitely past time to change it.
Good Luck!
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Type F = not acceptable for M47 transmissions
Volvo has always specified Type F ATF for the M45/M46/M47. Well, that's not quite true. The first model year 240s still had M40 or M41 gearboxes and those used gear oil.
It's true, there is a lube you can get from the dealer. I honestly do not know what the difference between it and Type F is, although there's a blurb in Bentley that indicates it has to do with ambient temperature. But every 240 service book I have seen and nearly every year Owner's Book (excepting that first model year when engine and trans had not been updated) state that the manual gearbox lube is Type F.
--
'80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon
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RE bulletproof posting. M41 uses engine oil 20/50. gear oil takes the clutch facing off the cone clutch. It's ok in M40 unless you live in the frozen north where the syncro's don't like it in the cold.
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famousdan,
Yes, For the M41 it is motor oil. My hat is off to you for the reminder.
--
'80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon
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Like to know the reason for your concern about fluid. Is there some problem with shifting or the synchros?
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1st was hard to get into. Rev was grinding a bit. That improved a bit after adjusting the clutch cable (it was too tight) and now doing the reverse lockout selector rod, so as to get the detente plate back in properly. After all that grindage I thought changing that oil would be a good move. Might help things.
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"Rev was grinding a bit."
No gear synchro on reverse on the M47.
To shift into reverse with a M40, M400, M41, M410, M45/46, M47, the Volvo MUST BE ABSOLUTELY STILL.
1. Fully press the clutch pedal.
2. The Volvo MUST BE ABSOLUTELY STILL.
3. Shift into one or two forward gears to halt the rotating gear assembies in the tranny.
4. Then shift into reverse. Should feel smooth like a light switch.
If after step #3, you encounter a grindy noise, it could mean:
- Yeh ain't shiftin' into to reverse quit right. See above.
- Clutch cable adjusted incorrectly as it must have that 2-3 mm free play ensuring full engagement and throw out bearing release.
- Bad throw out bearing.
- Clutch assembly damage.
- Flywheel damage (usually warped from abuse).
The M47 is adequate for a 240 stock. Shift gently from gear to gear. With abuse the M47 can quickly wear.
As for the newer Gettrag M50/51s on the 900 like 1995 and later, dunno if they have reverse synchromesh.
cheer and jeers,
Your Humble Narrator, Oh my Brother.
--
"Ooooph, you really want that RWD Volvo 240!"
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I would flush and then add the redline MTL. It helps the shifts go a little smoother, especially when the weather gets cold. Make sure you overfill by jacking the car up high on the filler side and injecting as much of 2 quarts of fluid as possible.
--
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=53563&id=1189132524&l=75a2564d60
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I'll second that suggestion... Overfill with Redline.
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