What's the work-around if you want to keep your original coil and not cut the shielded wire from the switch to the coil?

The VClassics article doesn't address this. And I haven't been able to find information about this in other postings on this topic, but recall that it can be done.


thanks

(you can find the diagram part at K-jet.org if you want to have a better image)

The reason I asked about the push button start is all you need is a switched 12+ and a ground to make this ignition system work.

The problem with using the ignition switch is that in the cranking position, the power is cut off to everything but the armour coil (so no power for the fuses that you would use). If you use the newer starters (as suggested), when starter is engaged, power can be supplied to the electronic ignition box from the post next to these starters, and as soon as the car is running (and the key is back to the run position), the power from the fuses can supply the 12+ to the box (so you would run two wires - one from the post next to the starter, and another from a fuse).

If you add a push button, then the power to the fuses (you would have to check which fuses are powered only when the key is in the run position) are receiving power because you are bypassing the crank position on the ignition switch.

If you are using the stock armour coil, the brown wire to the coil in the diagram will not be used (just make sure it can't be grounded - tape it up, tuck it up the outer wire casing, etc). The brown wire is the power (#15)to the '75 coil. The stock armour coil would get the power from the wire in the armour casing.

The cap (part #243797 - I think the same cap was used from '65 to '95)can be found here:

http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/product_id/3260/nm/Volvo_240_Distributor_Cap_1976_1980_/category_id/114


and rotor (part #243903- I think the same rotor was used from '65 to '82, maybe '84?) can be found here:

http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/product_id/3278/nm/Volvo_240_Distributor_Rotor_1976_1980_/category_id/114

If can order $99 from FCP, you can get free shipping and 10% off using code "TBCC".

Paul

Thanks for your time and effort doing this.
I got it installed and running just fine today.

I had to pull the distributor drive gear and rotate it in order to have adjustment so that the retard and the wire connector didn't interfere with the block.

My starter solenoid has the second tab. Yay!

Basically, there are 5 wires from the magic box. Two go to the distributor. The remaining 3 are black, blue and white. Black to ground - one of the screws mounting the magic box. White goes to the coil. The blue is split with one end to fuse box and the other to the 2nd tab on the solenoid. That's it - no diode, no ballast resistor.

We found that when the blue wire was connected to the 25amp fuse the amp light was on when running. Moving it to the second fuse down from the top (8amp but connected to the top fuse by a buss), no glowing amp light. Any ideas about why?

Tomorrow we're going to install the remote starter button. And also try and install the Bosch 55amp alternator and separate regulator - just have to suss out the wiring.

The momentary button I got is rated at 15amps 120V. Is that sufficient? The car I saw has this set up connected to the bottom terminal on the ignition switch closest to the driver - goes from there to the switch and from there to the solenoid. Sound right?

THANKS again for everyone's help on this!

If you get hold of the wiring diagram for 75 240 this came from all will be revealed. For sure you can do it and as the original coil can handle 12V all the time you can do away with the ballast resistor (and the ridiculous diode thing everyone seems to prefer). In your situation I would just install the ignition properly, and use a push button to engage the starter. I would set it up so that the push button only had current in the "key on" position (tap from fuse box or key switch as you desire. The whole point if the ignition switch in the eng start position is to no drain from aux electrics....a clever person can just not try starting the car with radio, lights, etc..all on.
p.s. can't help with the cap and rotor # as I always forget stuff like that. Just ask you parts jobber for the cap and rotor for a 75 volvo with the 2 litre engine...pretty sure thats what I do.
--
Patrick ('68 220, '92 Eurovan, '53 GMC PD4104)

The bosch number for the distributor is 0237 002 003. I need the cap and rotor numbers so that I get the correct parts. George, Patrick, Malloy, Eric - anybody have this info handy?

Do you have a push-button start switch?

Paul

No, but if that makes it easier to install the breakerless ignition I'd be willing to do it. I've seen the button installed in a hole in the bottom of the dash near the door. What's involved - what would a wiring diagram look like? Any recommendations on a specific push button switch?

I didn't get the coil with the 75 breakerless setup and don't want to have another coil under the hood. Can I use the original coil?

Hello,

You have to use a large diode to supply voltage from the starter trigger wire while cranking.

Or if you have a rebuilt starter with the later style solenoid, you can get power for the ignition while cranking from the unused pole.

In either of the above cases, you have to supply power to the ignition from switched power from the ignition switch.
--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502