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Advice on fitting ignition kill switch 900 1994

Hi all. Prepping a 94 940 for the 24 Hours of Lemons race (!). One of the requirements is a kill switch that kills all power and the engine. I have the switch wired into the main battery line, which is fine, now looking for the best way to intercept the power to the engine so it can't run off of the alternator. I figured I could tap into the key switch, killing the main ignition line out. Trouble is, there are a few different lines from the actual ignition switch on the column that go to various distribution points. Does it seem reasonable that I break the two main lines out (both red wires), and do it that way? Any other tips or advice?

Thanks all, pretty psyched for the race ;-)

Will








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How did the race go? 900 1994

Just went to the first leg of my first LeMons race today. There was a team running 244 and another running a 245. The 244 was regularly able to pull away from a large section of field including 5.0 Mercury Capri...in the straights. I am wondering if it is a turbo.

It would beat all the big American iron in the corners as well but a lot of the small cars, including a classic Ford Fiesta, could cut inside it on the corners. I so wanted to be out there!

I plan to chat up 240 the team tomorrow just to see if I can play on the pit crew in the future (doubtful...they were pretty good sized team). I actually get to spend most of the day there tomorrow while I only got three hours today.

Loved hearing a few of the cars and watching how they handled. The little X 1/9, a Porsche 944 and a baby Alfa sedan had the best sound...but, I had never heard an unmuffled early Lexus V8 which sounds like, um, sex...the good kind. The 240's sounded like absolutely nothing.

Oh, and I have never seen so many FWD cars lift a rear wheel in my life! There was a MKII Golf that I swore spent most of its time around the track with one or the other leg cocked!

So, Will, how did your outing go. I really am interested.

Mike








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Advice on fitting ignition kill switch 900 1994

Hi,


I would use something like this:

Battery Disconnect WITH alternator field


Goatman








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Advice on fitting ignition kill switch 900 1994

Hello,

You can rewire the alternator B+ wire to go directly to the positive battery terminal instead of the starter motor.
--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502








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Advice on fitting ignition kill switch 900 1994

Dear willmeyer,

Hope you're well. Yes!! Remove the front, center console ashtray. This exposes the fuse block.

Tie a string around the top of Fuse No. 1. In case of emergency, yank on the string. With the fuse pulled, the fuel pump stops.

This approach, crude as it is, reduces risk of electrical mal-function and fire, than is involved in tampering with the ignition switch wires.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook








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Advice on fitting ignition kill switch 900 1994

Sadly, having almost memorized the LeMons rules, I am sure this would not meet the standards.

willmeyer,

I am exceedingly jealous. One of the things that got me through some of the more dull days working in Iraq last year was reading through the coverage of the LeMons races and dreaming up my ultimate team. Of course, since I have no racing experience I was going for the ultimate Index of Effluence car while still having fun.

Which race are you doing?

FYI, the direct wiring of all the red alternators wires to the battery would do it. That being said, anything that interrupts the ignition would work so I would put the kill switch in place of the RSR is I understand my my 940 wiring.

Mike








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Advice on fitting ignition kill switch 900 1994

Thanks for the replies, guys. And yeah, we are doing the "Capitol Offense" race, should be fun! Our theme is Cobra Kai (you know, the bad dojo from Karate Kid).

Sorry for the stupid question -- what's the "RSR" exactly? I was thinking I could interrupt what look like the two hot wires coming out of the key switch on the column, both of which go to various distribution blocks as far as I can tell from my diagram. The diagram I have is not especially informative -- I would have thought there was basically one wire coming out of the column switch that would be the "on", one for accessory, and one for the starter, and I could basically kill the main on line to kill all power to everything, but the wiring is more complex than that and I can't exactly tell where the relays etc are for the distributor.

In any case, killing the two hots seemed like the most straightforward thing -- thoughts on that? If I knew what an RSR was it would be easier ;-)








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The RSR doesn't affect the Ignition on non-turbo 940s 900 1994

It only affects (controls) voltage to the injectors.

If your goal is to kill the ignition, go after the Blue-Red wire from the ignition switch, or the Blue wire to the Coil terminal 15.

--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.








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The RSR doesn't affect the Ignition on non-turbo 940s 900 1994

This is exactly why I need to put more qualifiers in my posts. my 1990 760 turbo wagon...the RSR killed ignition which effectively disabled the fuel pump relay. I have no idea if that is normal or a quirk of my bridge-year-model part 7-series, part9-series weird-mobile.

Thanks for keeping the OP on the right path. Can't have a LeMons racer being being disqualified at tech inspection.

Mike

P.S. Will, do not forget to bring beer and baked goods for the inspectors.








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Advice on fitting ignition kill switch 900 1994

The RSR is the radio suppression relay...which does not adequately describe the function. If you kill the power to the RSR, you kill the power to the ignition system which kills the power to the fuel pump. As I remember it, that is the requirement of the kill switch for LeMons...no spark, no fuel.

A failing RSR is a common no-start troubleshooting item so you should be able to check the 7/900 FAQ's to find out more. Remove it and put the kill switch between the two heavy wires should do the trick. I am going on memory but I believe it is one of two identical black relays under the hood next to the battery tray.

Did you fab your roll-cage yourself or are you having that farmed out? The cost of the cage, racing seat, and nomex suit(s)are the items, along with lack of team members, that have me stymied on how I will ever be able to enter a car. I can reasonably do everything else but the costs of the required safety items will add up quick when we only have about 3 races per year in driving distance.

I competed an under 600cc class motorcycle in college (where did we find the money when we were living on rice and beans!) so I have the racing bug. Wife won't let me on motorcycles of any sort anymore so 4-wheeled racing will have to be my mid-life crisis!







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