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Does anyone have photos/details of installing 240 type front seat bottom spring suspension in place of the stock 122 webbing?
TR Conn mentioned a while back he had done this mod. Still there TR? Still comfy?
Swedish Embassy has a photo of mod/kit with what looks like 240 short springs with bed type spring wires. I want to diy.
I've found plenty of donor 240 seats with both short and long springs and wire spreaders.
How to fit to post 65 122 seats for good firm ride?
Visual learner.
Thanks
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Just a bit off topic: If I were to use my 220 as a daily driver, I would go to the P&P and get the mechanical front seats from an 850/70. They shouldn't be a total pain to get installed and are super comfy. Besides, at $28 each...
As it is, I have IPD webbing and reinforced the seat back with a pair of blue jeans to keep the bar out of my backbone.
Klaus
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Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.
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Thanks, that was my next question: how to get that bar out of my back!
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While not completely gone, reinforcing the foam with blue jeans made a huge difference.
Klaus
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Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.
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You gotta rebuild them too:
I did both the top and bottom on both the front seats with some nylon strapping. Made the seats feel like new!
Paul
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Why not keep them original??
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I just switched out my front seats with the my old 122 (which I rebuilt the webbing with nylon strapping-top and bottom) with my new 122 (seat webbing is totally woren out - bottom has a piece of plywood, and the top webbing is broken with the bar in my back). The nylon webbing is still as tight as the day I installed it 2 years ago.
The cost of rewebbing my seats with nylon webbing (seat belt material) was about $20. Totally a great alternative to the pirelli webbing material.
Paul
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[IMG]http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af103/friendlyfred/5880998061_b1622d198b_z.jpg[/IMG]
OOPS!
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Looks neat.
Use html link from Photobucket.
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Thanks Derek!!
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I'm not using those seats any longer, I now have seats from an Accura Legend - Very comfy!
To install the springs I drilled out the holes for the web anchors, used the short springs and the smaller size wire seat grid. Was much better than the webbing.
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I thought it was 140 seat springs that work?
Ron Kwas sells a kit:
http://www.sw-em.com/swemkitspix.htm#seat suspension upgrade
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That's the photo I found. I thought 140 seats had webbing too. I find a ton of 240 seats, was hoping to use those parts. Thanks Paul.
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The early 140/164 seats DID have webbing. They changed to the springs and wire frame in 72 or 73.
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I did this once...was a bit of a PITA but it worked....can't remember long or short but I modded the ends to fit application. Also used the 240 foam stuffing....major PITA PITA but after modding replaced 120 foam with 240 foam ( My D seat was shot!)
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Patrick ('68 220, '92 Eurovan, '53 GMC PD4104)
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Thanks,
Hey Paul, Where can I purchase such nylon webbing(by the foot/yard?
Do you recall how much was needed? How did you attach ends (rivets/bolts)?
I need to redo top and bottom of both front 122 seats.
Walter
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Walter-
I measure about 10 feet for the bottom (I took a picture of it installed, can't post pictures at the moment, but will next week). The strap is 2 inch wide.
It's this stuff:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-100-Roll-2-Black-Seat-Belt-Strap-Strapping-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem53e8229c3eQQitemZ360376867902QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
I couldn't measure the length for the top, but the strap is 1.5 inch wide.
It's this stuff:
http://cgi.ebay.com/1-1-2-Inch-10-yds-Red-Nylon-Heavy-Webbing-Strapping-/230480493153?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35a9b53a61
I used aluminum flat bar and rivots to secure the ends (I needed to adjust the strap on one of the bottoms, so I ended up using screws). To put the holes in the nylon, I used an old soldering iron to melt the nylon.
Paul
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I did this write up for myself.
I went to a local (UK) upholsterer and bought 7 metres (too much) of black rubber/nylon cloth webbing 2” wide for £20, actually £3/m. Pirelli type was £5m from this supplier.
Used Ali plates and pop rivets but the ones I had weren’t the most suitable in length and type. I might use nuts and bolts next time. Holes in webbing made with a soldering iron which also seals the nylon. I pulled as tight as possible using self locking mole grips to clamp off each section before making off the final end. Because of the stretch, the actual free length of webbing used for one seat base was 99”/2515mm. This includes about 3”/80mm for the fold back at both ends, 1 ½” each. Made up length was 96”/2440mm. This was pulled very tight when made up on a spare seat base. I may find that it’s too tight when fitted properly and tested for comfort. I did make up a pair, both the same length, but because of the stretch I’ve more than enough left to make up another. I think that a made up length of 100” maybe fine if made in this type of webbing. The 96” belts were quite hard to fit to the seats. Used the same method with Mole grips as when they were made. Seats are comfortable and the seating position is raised a bit. I weigh about 165lbs. If you consistently have a light passenger in the front, say 110-120lbs, a belt made up as 100” may be more comfortable for that seat.
It'll be down to you and how you perceive the "comfort". I've not done the backs. This was done to the seats of my "new" wagon. My 4 door came with webbing made from seat belt material. Comfortable enough but there is no give in it. Very cheap from the pick 'n pull though, so worth a try to get you used to the job. You might like it.
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I wish I was familiar with the rubberized nylon that you used. I used the Pirelli material which is becoming quite hard to find and paid about what you were quoted for it. By accident, I did the seat backs in 2" Pirelli before I realized what Paul pointed out, 2" bottoms and 1 1/2" for the tops.
I ran out of material (and money) before I did the bottoms so I did them with the IPD webbing kit.
The IPD webbing was sewn and that seems to be adequate, but for the rubberized (Pirelli) material I thought that a sewn seam would tear.
The most difficult part of the project was finding the fasteners for the rubberized webbing. These are what I came up with.
http://www.perfectfit.com/15974/154514/Fasteners/Speedy-Rivets.html
Other suppliers have them as well.
The holes are cut with a punch and a nylon anvil.
A simple tool is used to compress the rivet. These are very similar to original.
In my opinion, the IPD webbing is too firm. I will redo the bottoms in Pirelli banding when I am able to find some for less money. Fortunately they are exposed and therefore much easier to do than the backs.
I wish I could see the rubberized nylon that you used. Maybe it is replacing the Pirelli material that is becoming so rare now.
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The Pirelli type webbing is available on UK eBay for less than what my upholstery shop said they could buy it in for! Here's a pic of the nylon/rubber webbing I used.
If you PM me your email address I'll get a pic of the webbing in the seat. I'll have take one.
I make a comment about my seat belt webbed seats here.
http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=109277&highlight=amazon+seat+webbing
Lunch break fix here.
http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=43363&highlight=amazon+seat+webbing
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Guys;
I also considered nylon webbing, or seatbelt stock for repairs and my kits, but I decided that any non-metal solution would be subject to aging, oxidation and embrittlement...the same mechanisms by why the originals deteriorate. That is why I use and recommend (and sell: http://sw-em.com/swemkits.htm) all-metal spring suspension...this suspension has a similar compliance to the rubberized Pirrelli straps (without the downsides), thereby keeping the feel and comfort of those excellent seats. This cannot be said for a hard strap or webbing!
Cheers
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I plugged your stuff earlier in the thread.
For $36 a seat, and only half an hour to install(I bet less for the second seat), it's cheaper than the seatbelt material in the labor saving alone. The springs looks like the best solution for the bottoms to me. It took me several hours to install the seatbelt material on two seats (top and bottom), but use it because I wanted to see how well the seatbelt material would work. If I would do it again, I would use your spring setup.
The back of the seats still would need to rebuilt with some sort of strapping material.
Paul
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If my (original) seats only hold up for the next twenty years I will be extremely happy!!
These seats were the most comfortable on the market when they were new, bar none. Mercedes were much too hard. Renault/Citroen MUCH too soft and bouncy. Why re-engineer perfection???
With the (relative) scarcity of the Pirelli material in the USA, I am extremely interested in what Derek has discovered in Europe: or sourcing the original PIRELLI material from the right side of the pond.
I owned a (new) 1971 145S. Wonderful car. Seats didn't compare with the 122's.
My 2 cents, FWIW,
FF
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This looks like the type I used. Not an expensive mistake to make if it doesn't work for you. I'd advise making one only first, and try it before making the second. That way you can make the second, harder or softer if needed.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Elasbelt-Seat-Webbing-replaces-Pirelli-front-only-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem20ba4dc724QQitemZ140564612900QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
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I just ordered 30' of it!
Thanks Derek.
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