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brake failure light-update 200

posted by Nel621 on Wed Sep 28 17:35 CST 2011
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last visit: Thu Oct 23 12:48 CST 2014

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Ok,I've been chasing a brake failure light problem on my 1990 240DL.Today I re-bled the system using a "Motive Bleeder" that I borrowed.All the air is out,all new fluid in.For a moment the light went out then back on.I checked the "block" and switch.The block is dry and the wireing to the switch intact.It started to rain so I couldn't undo the switch to clean the contacts.I may also remove the block and try to clean the sliding piston but first I will order a new one just in case.While stepping on the pedal I did notice a swooshing sound.Could this be part of the problem and what would cause the pedal to make such a sound? I have a high,firm pedal that does not sink at all.I may try a 2 prong approach to the bleeding before removing parts.First bleed one caliper with the "Motive" followed by a firm push on the pedal then move on to the next caliper, bleed followed by a firm press.One side note,I could not find my Bently so I looked at a Haynes manual I have for the bleeding order.Interesting that the Haynes shows the front calipers with 3 bleed screws but my front calipers have only 2.????

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brake failure light-update 200

posted by Nel621 on Sun Oct 2 20:50 CST 2011
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last visit: Thu Oct 23 12:48 CST 2014

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So I did the brake bleed again this time removing the front wheels.Yes my front calipers have 3 bleed screws.One of the bleed screws could not be seen with the wheels on.I also found my Bently and did the bleeding as the book described.My brake failure light is now out.On a short trip it did not come back on.So I guess I still had some air in the system,I'm glad it wasn't the juction block.But the true test will be this week when I start using the car again on my 100 mile round trip commute.Thanks for all the advice I'm sure something else will come up!

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brake failure light-update 200

posted by Onkel Udo II on Mon Oct 3 03:40 CST 2011
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last visit: Fri Oct 24 08:50 CST 2014

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Yeah, I have never tried bleeding the bakes with the wheels on. This is one of those times that spending a bit more time on destruction will make reassembly, or the work, enough faster to more than balance it out.

Congrats and I hope it stays fixed.

Mike

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brake failure light-update 200

posted by Trev29 on Thu Sep 29 05:17 CST 2011
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last visit: Fri Oct 17 05:56 CST 2014

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I'm pretty sure you need 3 bleed screws on the front calipers. Are you sure you got the right replacements from Autozone?
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont.

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brake failure light-update 200

posted by Nel621 on Thu Sep 29 09:29 CST 2011
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last visit: Thu Oct 23 12:48 CST 2014

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I'm sure.They have been on the car for several years now without any problems.I'll take off a front wheel this weekend and look further.

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brake failure light-update 200

posted by Onkel Udo II on Wed Sep 28 18:51 CST 2011
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last visit: Fri Oct 24 08:50 CST 2014

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Back-up...you do not have ABS and you are only counting two bleeders per caliper? Which two? The two that are between the pistons...one per side or one of the middle ones and the high one? I suspect you will answer the former and someone has snapped off the two upper bleeders at some time in the past.

I have a 90 DL that I struggled with, mainly due to component failures, but the majority of the air came from the up bleeders.

The whoosh is the sound of the booster. It is not uncommon and it is unlikely to be you failure light problem unless you have been loosing fluid at a rapid rate.

Mike

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brake failure light-update 200

posted by Nel621 on Wed Sep 28 19:33 CST 2011
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last visit: Thu Oct 23 12:48 CST 2014

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Two bleeders per caliper,one high,one in the middle.They came this way from Autozone when I replaced the old ones.No sign of third bleeder,no hole for a bleed screw.

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brake failure light-update 200

posted by Nel621 on Wed Sep 28 19:35 CST 2011
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last visit: Thu Oct 23 12:48 CST 2014

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2 bleeders on each front caliper ,just to clarify.

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brake failure light-update 200

posted by Onkel Udo II on Thu Sep 29 04:00 CST 2011
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last visit: Fri Oct 24 08:50 CST 2014

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OK, I guess based on Art's diagram of the inner workings of our calipers, this is workable.

http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1451589/220/240/260/280/re_snag_1_caliper_halves_assembled_upside.html

Had it been the two that are in between the pistons only, that would have been a different matter. It still is not "right" but it is possible that is can be successfully bled with that arrangement.

Mike

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brake failure light-update 200

posted by Art Benstein on Thu Sep 29 09:33 CST 2011
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last visit: Fri Oct 17 20:10 CST 2014

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I can't think of any way a remanufacturer could alter the three-bleeder configuration except by mistake.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

"A study in the Washington Post says that women have better verbal skills than men. I just want to say to the authors of that study: "Duh." (Conan O'Brien)

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brake failure light-update 200

posted by someone claiming to be Onkel Udo II on Thu Sep 29 15:03 CST 2011 [RELATED]

But it could work if the bleeder for the upper set of pistons is the top and in-board bleeder...that is one circuit with a high-point bleeder on it. Then the other is the outboard lower bleeder which is the high point for the lower pistons.

Your issue is then the un-bleedable section between the upper bleeder and the inboard piston of the upper pair...the air tends to rise to the high point anyway so you should be able to bleed them.

All that being said, I suspect there is a bit of confusion here as well. Probably a broken off bleeder on the fronts or a plug inserted into a bleeder hole.

Mike

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brake failure light-update 200

posted by Nel621 on Fri Sep 30 09:25 CST 2011
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last visit: Thu Oct 23 12:48 CST 2014

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As mentioned I will REMOVE the front wheels this weekend for a closer look.I have been doing the bleeding with the front wheels on,just rotating side to side.Maybe there is another bleeder there that I am not seeing.Will follow up on my findings and results.

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