Since I've had three situations recently with almost being stranded in my daily driver I want to spot likely showstoppers, if possible.
First one was the main fuel pump, second was the in-tank pump and third was the generator which I ordered today and is awaiting.

Car is a -93 945 with almost 510'km or 315kmiles on the clock, normally aspirated and all maintenance is done regularly and all wear items replaced when needed.
Some parts are still original and untouched though, and these come to mind, may have missed something;

Radio Suppression Relay
Idle air control valve
ECU
Igniton control unit
Ignition coil
Ignition amplifier
Throttle position sensor
Cooling fan relay
WOT sensor (isn't used?)
Lambda sensor
EGR valve (cleaned occasionally)

The fuel injectors are original but were ultrasonic cleaned not to long ago and tested for flow and spray pattern.
AMM was replaced long ago at ~10'km/6kmiles so it's pretty old.
Water pump was replaced just before the AMM.

I will change the bulb for the "No charge" indicator, looks like this is a critical point for the charging system.

I seek the boards collective wisdom; do you spot any items with a high probability for failure at this age and mileage and with a high impact?


TIA,
mila

Turned out that the generator was not at fault. I had exactly the same problem as Wiley '93 940 - Electrical Short ... SRS Light Stays On ... Instrument Cluster Issue? 900
What should have caught my eye was that the no charge lamp never lit, but I've had the SRS lamp every now and then for about 6 months so I didn't make the connection from that lamp to the flat battery.

Flex board resoldered and charging works OK now. The new generator was not waisted money since it was probably about to give up any day. I have about 0,5V measured between battery + and generator output when it's charging a low battery. Is that normal or something that should be adressed?

Anybody knows what is the purpose of the connection from the SRS box to the D+ connector on the generator?


mila

Good advice so far! I will probably replace the SRS relay and shop for some used fuel injection and ignition computers.


Thanks,
mila



Here's what the sliprings look like after 510'km





Original(!) brushes at same mileage.





Type plate of the NipponDenso 100A generator

Car/show stoppers:

Several of the white fuel pump relays failed, even one that was three months old. I re-solder the new and the spares before use.

The single in-tank fuel pump fuel pump in a 1993 Rex/Regina stopped me while making a LH turn into a busy intersection. It restarted once, for about three seconds, to get me out of the intersection.

The pusher pump in a son's 1994 Bosch. This displayed the typical symptoms with a low fuel level in the tank.

Never caused a stoppage but preemptive strikes with the crank sensors.

The winner was a broken roll pin on the cam pulley to cam shaft. Thank goodness for non-interference engines and the help from the brickboard.

Tom

For me, number 1 is the fuel pump relay. Number 2 is the RPM sensor. Number 3 would be the Radio Suppression Relay, although I've never had one fail. Number 4 would be the main fuel pump. I've had a main fuel pump die, work, die, work, and die forever.
--
john

Might have been able to fix teh Alternator with a $6 set of Brushes. or a simplier operation of swapping out the entire $40 Regulator/brush assembly.
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/

That's what I hoped for but unfortunately the sliprings were deeply worn. The screws for the brush assy were also frozen and the assy broke when I tried to undo them.
This Nippon Denso generator has done well, but @510'km it's game over.

I'll se if I can upload some pics later.

mila

Ok, I'm glad you knew enough to try teh Regulator route. If it 'done' it's 'done.
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/

When I go on a long trip, I carry some of those parts spares in a bag in the trunk given that my 740 is 22 years old with 225k miles. In the bag is a set of relays, ignition amplifier, and an engine ECU. I think the showstoppers in your case might be the RSR and fuel pump relays, both of which will shut you down on failure. I would consider as well buying used ignition and fuel injection ECUs (match the part numbers) and some of the other parts to hold as spares. Most of them, except for the ignition electricals, will slow but not stop you. For example, a failing TPS will cause weird idle but you can still drive the car. Ditto with the idle air control valve and oxygen sensor. Replace them when you have cash and time on hand given the age of the car.
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See the 700/900 "FAQ" at the menu bar top screen left side.

Thanks, that's good input.
Actually, I replaced the fuel pump relay when the main pump died on me.
Sofar the strategy has been to replace-with-new when parts have broken or are highly likely to, but a known-good-working is probably more appropriate by now.

I'm kind of amazed that so many electronic and mechanical components have survived this far.

Cheers,
mila