Well, I went the Advance Auto Parts route and that was a mistake. They sent me two calipers that were not matched, one of them didn't even have the right bolt holes, and the other didn't have the clips to hold the new rubber boot in place. Add to that the ATE pads they sent me for Girling calipers, and you get the picture. It was not funny. Took everything back, got a credit, got my old calipers back, and called King Kalipers. Will send him the calipers Monday and he will replace them making sure the replacement parts are the same as the ones I send him. More later. Oh for RPR.
Jim

Haven't purchased rebuilt calipers from Autozone, but the King Kaliper rebuilds that I have purchased have been in that same ballpark price-wise. They've held up pretty well too.

There have been quite a number of posts lamenting the fact that RPR was going out of business.
Not sure why you didn't see them.
If yours is a US car the chances of it being a B20F are WAY over 99%.
But if you post the motor type number (6 digits beginning with 49) on the driver's side
of the block above the breather box and distributor we can verify for you.
The first two digits or maybe the first 4 will be cast into the block and the remainder
will be stamped into a rectangular boss immediately to the rear of the cast digits.
If you get rebuilt calipers examine them for punch marks along the joint between the two halves.
The punch marks should line up. If they don't, reject the caliper as having been
misassembled. If they are not assembled correctly the fluid passages between the two halves
don't match.
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Oklahoma

The VIN number on the car won't be of much help on such an old car--anything may have been installed over the years. A '73 would have had an F motor (low compression). I think the E (high compression) would be mid '70 through '71. Better to post the actual block numbers and research posts that have been made with the differences in cylinder heads illustrated. -- Dave