Hissing under the first cylinder found it using the hose as a listening tube method. Does someone know of a step by step to replace? Its never been done in 21 years.

Thanks,

Mark

The replacement gasket I had included two large extra holes that I think fit prior motors. I suggest clipping these off because they slightly interfere with other parts on the engine (temp sender?). If you can, do a fit check first and you'll see these extra, unused holes/tabs. I missed this step, but so far, so good.

TM

I would like to suggest you throw a straight edge up against or across all the ports runners to check for flatness.

You may be just fine as it has lasted many years but it only takes a second to rule out a reason for the failure.

Phil

While you are there, do yourself a favor and change the two hoses that go to the heater through the firewall. I changed the oil separator and did not do the hoses. Six months later I was back there changing due to a leak.
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Happy Motoring! 93' 244 past cars "74 140, '75 140, '86 240, '87 240 wagon, '02 S60.

As Jonn mentioned. Unplug the Harnesses to the Throttle Switch, and the obvious Plumbing. Do not take off any Gas flow stuff. Take off the nuts and rock the intake up and roll it over out of the way. Nows a very good time to clean the Oil Separator box. Buy an 'o' ring for the bottom of it.

Before you get started. Make sure you have a 12mm (or 13mm) wrench to get to two hard nuts (the ratcheting wrenches are great here if you have them. I think one was by teh #3 tube and one was on #2. Also make sure you have a magnet to retrieve the nuts that you are going to keep dropping as you try to put them back on the studs.
This was one job I did not have my camera out for. Sorry
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/

There should be something in the archives. I just undo the air-intake hose, manifold bolts, a connector or two eg. the TPS, and lift it up and out of the way.

Always been a trivial job for me: no tricks, frozen bolts, ...
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240s: 2 drivers and some parts cars

I'm a complete novice. I am reading the Bentley manual for my 1991 240. It says that in order to "replace" the intake manifold one needs to first drain the radiator (page 250-5). Is this not true for _removing_ the intake manifold in order to replace the gasket?? Sorry, but I'm confused about this...and would really prefer _not_ to have to drain the radiator...

Keith

Relax... don't worry... be happy.... breathe sllooowwww... ddeeeeeppp...

..

Don't sweat it. I felt exactly the same way when I renovated my first 240 two years ago. Up until then, I had done my own oil, filter, plugs, basic tuneups, and eventually one or two brake jobs and some suspension work out of fiscal necessity on a Range Rover and a few other cars. I lived through the experiences, learned a lot, and figured it was time to dive in. My first 240 needed a new exhaust and intake manifold gaskets, among a host of other things. I read the Bentley, and almost gave up.. looked so complicated. Well, it ain't. The Bentley makes easy stuff sound impossible, and very difficult stuff sound easy. It's not wrong (usually), but it's not necessarily 100% right about everything either.

You do NOT, repeat, DO NOT, need to empty the coolant prior to removing the intake manifold. I'm not sure why the Bentley says you do.. maybe someone else with more knowledge than I can clear that up.. perhaps, since the Bentley's contain a lot of "standard procedure" elements for all cars, that draining the coolant is necessary on some other cars. I don't know. I do know that you DO NOT HAVE TO DRAIN THE COOLANT on a 240. There... :)... feel better? .

Seriously.. removing the intake manifold is a piece of cake. Usually none of those bolts are frozen or locked up, and it's a fun easy job that makes you feel like a real mechanic. Follow the Bentley steps, label wires and hoses as you remove them, take notes and pictures.. don't be afraid to be obsessive about that. Too many notes are way better than not enough. On the other hand, most of the stuff goes back together fairly obviously.

Basically, going from memory, you'll need to disconnect the throttle linkage (although I think some folks even skip that), remove the throttle body (you'll want to give that a good cleaning.. make sure to get a new gasket when you order your manifold gasket, too), unhook a bunch of vacuum hoses, including the big ol' hose going to the AMM, remove the few ground wires at the fuel rail, pop off the electrical connections to the injectors and push/pull them underneath the manifold, remove the manifold nuts, and gently remove it.. they usually come of easy. No need to remove or mess w/ any of the fuel fittings.. just carefully maneuver the manifold over to the passenger side of the engine bay. While you have it off, I'd suggest cleaning or replacing the oil breather box and flame trap. The breather box, especially, is much easier to do w/ the manifold off. Cheap parts, and cheap insurance for a better running engine for a longer time.. keep those internal pressures low so you don't blow your shaft seals.

That's going from memory.. I may have left something off or put something in the wrong sequence, but it is NOT difficult. I did mine w/ no one over my shoulder (except the Bentley and this board), and it went swimmingly. Easiest, most rewarding backyard mechanic job I've ever done.

Enjoy.

Barry

Thank you Barry, it is reassuring to me to hear these things.

I just couldn't imagine why Bentley recommends draining the radiator, and
besides being unneeded, I think that would be a difficult and messy job.

Yes, for a novice, removing the fuel rail and injectors, the throttle
body, the oil separator, the IAC, the intake manifod, etc, etc, is
intimidating at first glance. But I think you are correct- it seems
straight-forward as long as I get everything back the way it belongs. I
worry mostly about rusted bolts then anything else... And I have the
luxury of not needing the car for immediate transportation, so no
hurrying...

Thanks much,
Keith

You don't need to mess around with the fuel rail at all.. leave it attached. You do need to remove two ground wires that, IIRC, require you to remove two bolts or nuts that are part of what holds the fuel rail on the manifold, but once those two wires are off, you can (and should) put the bolts or nuts back on.

Let us know how it goes.

Barry

Hello,


Everyone forgot the brace that supports the intake manifold. There is one 12/13mm bolt that passes through the support and the two bolts that hold the brace to the engine block near the engine mount. They are a bitch and must be removed. Wobble sockets and extensions are nice.


Goatman

12/13MM bolt is under the intake manifold.