Does anyone have any diagrams of the location and any advice on changing them? Pretty easy job? It's an 89 245... thanks

Did the motor mount... The one by the oil filter, had to take off the alternator, because we didn't have a ratcheting 12mm... Drats. The question now is, I know the other motor mount needs replacing, but how tough is that one to do? It isn't horrible right now, but it moves and squeaks. With the terrible one done, it's greatly improved. But I don't want the new one to deteriorate, so I'll be doing that one soon. Is it even half as tough as the passenger side one? What do you have to move to get at it? Anything?....

Plenty of reading on 240 engine mounts HERE, from doing a search on "replacing 240 motor mounts".


--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

Ok, So.... It looks like removing the steering U-Joint is the only thing getting in the way.. If this U-joint is damaged, is it a good idea just to replace it anyways? Also do I HAVE to make that wooden support? Or would a jack from below do just fine?

My experience is with '84 or older... but I assume an '89 is about the same.

Three bolts hold the upper bracket to the engine, and the other three under the cross member, not unlike hte passenger side.

Wood block? Never used a wood block. Just a jack underneath somewhere.

Never removed any steering stuff.

well, in fairness, I did (permanently) remove the power steering pump and A/C compressor last time I did the job. But did it a few times with those in place.

The three bolts on the engine are a bit of a pain... but you did the other side. You'll be fine.

That said.. is the mount collapsed or known broken? A big (and I do mean big... 4' long at least) pry bar will allow you to lift that side of the engine... if it ain't broke, or collapsed, don't fix it. Compromised original mounts can last longer than brand new off-brand replacements.

I've never heard a motor mount squeak. You might want to look elsewhere for that problem...
--
-Matt I ♥ my ♂

Well, ok... When I grabbed the engine by the oil filler cap and shook it back and forth, it just rocked like a boat. Hence replacing the motor mounts... So, when we finally replaced the passenger's side, it raised the engine a couple of inches up, it was so bad. Before I replaced it, I gently shook it a bit, and heard a loud squeaking from the area of the other motor mount. Like rubber just, well, rubbing. Put the new motor mount on, and even though it's better, there's still the tiniest bit of play when I rock it back and forth. Keep in mind the driver's side isn't done.. I know there should be no play back and forth whatsoever, and there is. I don't know the actual condition of the other motor mount, I just don't want to wear the new one out, because I'm not really sure the brand used. It's my friends car that I'm helping, and he buys the parts. Usually the cheaper the better for him, and I'm assuming it's scan tech or something. Like an eEuropart, or FCP something-or-other.

I've been going with Mehle (sp?) mounts. They've held up better than others I've tried.

And yea, if in doubt... just replace it. It ain't that hard. First time I did it, it was a couple hours per side. Last time, I had the hood closed, project done in a half hour. Both mounts.
--
-Matt I ♥ my ♂

In all honesty, I think it's a "Uro" part... Well, if it fails within 100,000 miles, i'll have to do it again, but even the crappy ones should last...

Admittedly, I'm abusive (horrible driveway)

But I've had cheap ones break in a matter of weeks.

100k for me would be a pipe dream. To replace only once/year is great by me!

--
-Matt I ♥ my ♂

Hi,

Why do you think the lower (I'm assuming) u joint is damaged? It shouldn't be in the way too much-at least in my opinion not as much as the alternator and sway bar is for access on the side you already did.

When you say the wooden support, do you mean the wooden support you can make that rests above the engine? Or the wooden support between the jack and bottom part of the engine (where ever you choose to jack it from)?

From my experience a support bar across the engine compartment works best. When I needed to do mounts ASAP I was luckily enough to pick up an engine support bar at Harbor Freight on sale and with a 20% coupon. Worked very well.

One thing I definitely recommend is a set of Gearwrench Locking Flex Ratcheting Wrenches or some equivalent brand. They definitely came in handy when I did the mounts. If you keep an eye on ebay you can sometimes pickup a slightly used set for cheap.

Travis

Well, there's a bit of freeplay in the steering and when actually placing my hand and moving the lower steering u-joint it moves back and forth like it's a bit broken... I guess I have yet to have a friend move the steering wheel back and forth, and actually observing where that slack is coming from.. The tie rod ends are holding up.. Although the passenger's side looks kinda funky, it's still solid. Doesn't move around. But it doesn't look perfect either. I'm sure amongst other things that could use replacement.

http://volvo2.homestead.com/240mount.html

Keep in mind You DO NOT have to lift the engines off the Motor mounts. Just lift a tiny bit so you can unbolt the toff the engine and Cross Member

A 2x6 under the Crank pulley holds it. Do one side at a time so the engine doesn't shift much
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/

Yeah, but mine was so bad, the entire engine was "lowered a couple of inches. To get the new one on, I had to raise it up with another jack... We actually used 2 jacks, one with a wooden block on the rear red oil pan to hold it, and another smaller jack with a 2x4 near the front.. I had to lift it up a bit, and it's noticeable how much higher the engine went.

Here is one link for the passenger side: http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=1496265

Note, I did that on an engine with no belt driven fan, so you'll have to loosen or remove the fan shroud first.

jorrell
--
92 245 315K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently taking names and kicking reputations!

I did that one. I have to do the driver's side.. is the driver's side pretty much the same? I really hate removing stuff to get at it, but i will... Also do i need a ratcheting anything for the driver's side?