Probably the biggest reason I would not recommend it is that determining you have a working AMM vs a non-working AMM is not easy with Volvo unless you have units to compare. The resistance checks, as I've said many times, are useless. The voltage checks will help identify a grossly failed unit -- sometimes.

But symptoms tied to a dirty wire could be very difficult to isolate except by substitution. A variation of just a couple hundred millivolts will be the difference between an AMM the ECU can adjust to, and one it can't, and that voltage is in the load range, not only in still air or idle. There's no way for us to spec air mass requirement that accurately by saying "idle" or x-thousand rpm.

So, even though this automotive tech writer seems to know the basic theory and (Popular Mechanics plug for CRC) says "What have you got to lose" I contend you know very well what you have to lose. On the other hand, if you have one in your left hand that works, and one in your right hand that doesn't, hose down the right side. I might guess newer cars may give a better clue to AMM goodness with more accurate OBD-II diagnostics.






--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Back in the 1800's the Tate's Watch Company of Massachusetts wanted to produce other products, and since they already made the cases for watches, they used them to produce compasses. The new compasses were so bad that people often ended up in Canada or Mexico rather than California . This, of course, is the origin of the expression,..."He who has a Tate's is lost!"