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Crankcase pressure 700 1990

Hey everyone. 1990 740 GL, Regina, ~219,000 miles.

My car has always burned some oil - I'd say about three quarts over the course of a year. I've always kept up the oil changes since I've had it (last ~70,000 miles).

Recently I noticed a few drops of oil under the car. Opened the hood and the oil filler cap is damp all the way around. It's dripped down behind the timing cover and all over the exhaust side of the motor. When I first noticed it I stuck a big o-ring in the cap to try to seal it off but it didn't do much good.

I did some researching and decided to inspect the PCV. The oil trap allows air to flow through it (going to replace it anyway just to be safe) and the hoses are in good condition - I did replace the small hose on the PCV nipple because it was pretty stiff. I had previously cleaned out the flame trap last year and it is still clean - no passages blocked. The hose to the oil pan was not disturbed.

If I pop the oil filler cap off while the engine is running, it "dances" from the air blowing past it. Revving the motor doesn't seem to pull it down, but the dancing does stop.

There is some oil in the intake tube that seems to have blown past the flame trap.

There doesn't seem to be much vacuum at the small line on the PCV - even at the nipple on the manifold, it's pretty weak.

The cam seal does not appear to be leaking, nor is there oil coming from anywhere else that I can find. It all seems to have blown past the oil cap. Strangely the dipstick has NOT been blown free; I will check it for pressure this evening.

My alarm senses are going off and I'm afraid I'm going to have some intense work ahead of me (and/or a huge bill from a shop). My main fear is that I'm going to have to pull the motor completely apart to re-ring the pistons.

Any thoughts on my next course of action?

Thanks!








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    Crankcase pressure 700 1990

    Okay, some more information.

    The original rubber seal on the cap is still present. I will be ordering a replacement just in case on my next parts order.

    The oil trap had a small amount of gunk in it but is pretty obviously not clogged or in dire need of replacement.

    I do run synthetic but I do not know the car's entire history.

    I did have a moment of inspiration the other day and removed the nipple that provides vacuum to the flame trap assembly. It was almost completely plugged with oil residue. I cleaned that until it was sparkling clean inside and out and replaced it. The quantity of oil leaking is greatly reduced; I suspect that the rest is actually being caused by the o-ring (I think it's shifted and not sealing any more, leaving a gap between cap and valve cover), so I'll remove that and see what happens.








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      Crankcase pressure 700 1990

      Nice work! Also check the brass nipple at the manifold for being clogged. Use a paper clip, or removed it and clean.
      --
      Volvo is a labor of love: The time you love to labor on it, and The labor you do to pay for parts








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    Crankcase pressure 700 1990

    When you added an o-ring to the oil-cap, was there a flat rubber seal on there already?
    Like this? (http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/product_id/11785/nm/Volvo+240+Oil+Filler+Cap+Gasket+(1985-1993))

    If you're outright missing that, it would make leaks happen easily. They also get old and hard and stop providing a tight seal.

    The oil-cap suck-down test only works on models with the metal cap. It will not work on a plastic cap.

    If you're not getting any vacuum at the manifold nipple, and you have a bit of oil going through the throttle body, I would run some seafoam in the intake. It's been called "chinese water torture". You alternate distilled (has to be distilled) water and Seafoam about a teaspoon at a time through a manifold vacuum line. Dipping the line for a half second will be enough. The engine will sound awful. When you're ready, put the line in for longer, and the engine may die or just run really slowly. Let it die or shut it off and wait 10 minutes.
    When you restart it, it will blow smoke like a brush fire for about 3 minutes. I recommend doing this somewhere away from people (at least people you care about).

    I did it to a 240 I bought, and got a stain about 6 inches around of soot shot out the tailpipe.

    I also think that replacing the nipple and the breather box is a good idea - but I strongly recommend buying an OEM box. I think my aftermarket is leaking already.

    Good Luck! And it's probably not the end of the world. If you do start ejecting your dipstick, then start worrying.
    --
    1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond








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    Crankcase pressure 700 1990

    I would clean or replace the oil trap. They become plugged with carbonized oil after many years of use, and when they get plugged the engine gets high crankcase pressure. It is under the intake manifold, at the back of the engine. There is information in the 700/900 FAQ.
    --
    john








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      Crankcase pressure 700 1990

      I'd add that replacements often are not original Volvo, and some of those split. Some put more glue around them to make sure they stay together.








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      Crankcase pressure 700 1990

      One of the many advantages of synthetic oil is the greatly reduced probability of experiencing oil deposits within the crankcase ventilation system, including the oil breather box.
      --
      See the 700/900 "FAQ" at the menu bar top screen left side.







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