Can anyone verify the OP's part number question for the vacuum hose?
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'92 245 74k, '84 245 80k, 79 245 162k rust in peace

I got about 6 feet of vacuum hose from one of the auto part stores (ORielly), brought in a piece of mine (it was cut in half by one of the belts, I don't know how long it was hanging there) and they matched up the diameter. It cost me about $8. I took off my throttle body and cleaned up good (disgustingly dirty, probably had never been done) and put the new vacuum hose on. Between the clean throttle body and the new vacuum hose, I was amazed at how much smoother it idled and accelerated.

The vacuum hose isn't anything special. You could replace it with clear PVC tubing obtainable at a hardware store.
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1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont.

I suspect most people buy them from a auto supply hence the dealers ignorance. You could cut a piece of the hose and take it with you to an auto supply.

The free manuals on kjet.org have diagrams.

Hi Rich1978,

Are you missing these two vacuum lines completely? Or are the rubber vacuum line stiff and splitting where the connect to the nipples?

What are the size of the vacuum line you are missing?

On your Bosch L-jet equipped 1989 240, one vacuum line assembly connects the fuel vapor charcoal canister (inside the left front fender in front of the tire) to the throttle body. I say assembly as there is a flexible vacuum line at each end with a durable, stiff PVC-like plastic line. This line connects to the to a nipple at the front of the throttle body. The inside dimension is small like around 1/8" or so.

Another line connect the fuel rail pressure regulator to the front of the throttle body. The vacuum line is maybe six or eight inches.

Sometime the rubber vacuum line stiffens with age and heat. The rubber splits so it no longer seals. So you can:

- Nip the stiff end of the vacuum line off and secure it to the nipple on the throttle body. You can do this if you have enough length in the vacuum line.
- If you don't have enough length, yet have the failed vacuum line in hand, take that line to a auto parts store and by an adequate length of vacuum line that can be expose to fuel vapor. For example, you can replace both rubber vacuum line ends to "rebuild" (if you will allow) the vacuum line assembly between the fuel canister and the throttle body.

If you don't have a sample, explore your local auto salvage yard so long as they have a Volvo 240 of the same of slightly later vintage. You can glean whole vacuum lines or at least samples from the salvage. You can purchase new vacuum line from an auto parts store.

And be certain it is vacuum line. Don't let them sell you windshield washer fluid hose for vacuum line hose.

You can use wire ties or, better, small plastic zip tie straps around the vacuum line end where it slips over the nipple. Tighten the tie strap gradually so you can feel a snug yet tight fit over the nipple where ever vacuum line connects anything to anything.

Also, verify the fuel vapor vacuum line fits tightly at the bottom of the fuel canister. If a neurotic, you can check the fuel vapor recovery system system where it begins at the top of the fuel sending unit.

You may also want to check and replace any metal hose clamps, certainly hose clamps around the fuel lines between the gas tank fuel sending unit and the main fuel pump inlet. As you live on Long Island, NY, these clamps can rust and eventually fail in a very dangerous way; leaking fuel.

The top of the fuel sending unit can connect road salt and grime and also rust. Sometimes requiring replacement of the fuel sending unit assembly.

Unless you have brass tools and a bung tool to remove the fuel sending unit, refer service to as trusted and qualified mechanic.

Questions? Comments?

Thanks,

MacDuff.