Volvo RWD 140-160 Forum

INDEX FOR 10/2025(CURRENT) INDEX FOR 2/2005 140-160 INDEX

[<<]  [>>]


THREADED THREADED EXPANDED FLAT PRINT ALL
MESSAGES IN THIS THREAD




  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

Further bleeding problem 140-160 1972

posted by  walrus3 on  Mon Mar 12 16:38 CST 2012
Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
last visit: Mon Dec 2 14:20 CST 2013
[RELATED]

It's been a long time since I bled brakes on a 164 - maybe 20 years.
I used a home made pressure bleeder which amounted to a cap with an air fitting double-nutted
to it and pressurizing the reservoir at about 30 psi.
As I recall the fluid came out pretty fast.
Working on the Mroon 164E, sitting since 2004, first time I tried the brakes the pedal went
to the floor and the exhaust emitted a large white cloud.
Identifying this as a bad MC rear seal, I bench bled the new MC as best I could and installed it
after taking nearly a quart of brake fluid out of the booster body. The pedal still went to the floor.
So I hooked up my pressure bleeder (after buying and installing a new regulator on my compressor)
and tried again. No fast bleeding from any bleeder valve, in fact no fluid from any valve except
the top ones on the front calipers, and they only dripped slowly. The rest seemed dry.
I increased the pressure from 20 psi to 30 psi - same result.
I am sure things are stopped up somewhere but am not sure where to start.
I probably should buy all new hoses based on my knowledge that these swell shut,
but would like to minimize diagnostic time. Should I disconnect hoses and gradually
pressurize the system a bit to see what drips and what doesn't?
Is it likely the calipers themselves are stopped up?
Results of any experience more recent than mine would be most welcome!
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Oklahoma








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    Further bleeding problem 140-160 1972

    posted by  someone claiming to be Blackjackmac on  Mon Mar 12 22:31 CST 2012 [RELATED]

    George. Bleeder nipples often clag up with disuse, Try removing them one caliper at a time and apply pressure and check nipples are clear. Did you bleed M/cyl before connecting lines. Even with nipples out they can still be blocked, a small drill will clear it.








    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

      Further bleeding problem 140-160 1972

      posted by  walrus3 on  Tue Mar 13 09:29 CST 2012
      Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
      last visit: Mon Dec 2 14:20 CST 2013
      [RELATED]

      Bleeder nipples seem to be OK. Next stop is to see if anything is coming through the hoses.
      Will probably do that this afternoon.
      Many thanks.
      --
      George Downs Bartlesville, Oklahoma








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    Further bleeding problem 140-160 1972

    posted by  Rhys on  Mon Mar 12 20:29 CST 2012
    Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
    last visit: Tue Nov 20 10:22 CST 2012
    [RELATED]

    Might be worth checking that the pushrod into the back of the MC has freeplay, allowing the primary seal to retract back past the port. If the pistons are only slightly ahead, they'll block the fluid.







  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    Further bleeding problem 140-160 1972

    posted by  Phil S. on  Mon Mar 12 18:35 CST 2012
    Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
    last visit: Fri Oct 24 13:18 CST 2014
    [RELATED]

    George,

    If it's the calipers, you'll need to take the hoses loose. If it's the hoses, you'll need to take the hoses off. Why not start with taking them loose and see what that tells you?

    -OR-

    See if you can push back the caliper pistons with the bleeders open. If you can't, they are either frozen or there is blockage in the calipers (unlikely -- the halves are not mismatched), and you'll need to rebuild or replace the calipers. With the calipers off, the hoses are halfway loose, and you can take them completely loose and see if you can blow through them.








    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

      Further bleeding problem 140-160 1972

      posted by  walrus3 on  Mon Mar 12 20:13 CST 2012
      Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
      last visit: Mon Dec 2 14:20 CST 2013
      [RELATED]

      That is kinda the way I was thinking.
      When I have unstuck calipers (some of them several times, and now still functional)
      I have been able to force them out with the brake pedal, lube/clean and force them back in,
      then repeat the cycle about 3 times after which they worked well for several years
      or until long sitting inoperative.
      I forced them against brake pads with no friction material. For reasons unknown to me
      the seals NEVER gave out!
      --
      George Downs Bartlesville, Oklahoma







<< < > >>



©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.