Hi,

I have been planning on doing some front suspension work and I need to replace the rear control arm bushings (the ones that are pressed in the bracket).

I have used the HF 20 ton Press and a 3/4" drive metric socket set (as pushers/receivers) for most bushings, but from looking at the Bentley manual it seems I am going to have a hurdle due to the shape of the control arm bracket. I figure I won't have enough room for the sockets.

Has anyone used this press to push out those bushings and if so what tips can you offer?

Thanks,
Travis

Simple answer is yes.








--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

"Everybody's got to believe in something. I believe I'll have another beer." (W. C. Fields)

Thanks to everyone for the replies and helpful tips.

A big thank you to Art for the (as always) wonderful photographs and details.

I hadn't ever had the bracket off of the car so I hadn't ever seen the inside area of it. The way the set up looks in the Bentley manual looked to me like the HF 20 ton press' jack pusher wouldn't clear the side of the bracket.

I have several suspension parts to install and I didn't want to get everything apart, check out the bracket, find out what pushers/receivers I had wouldn't work, put everything back together, get what I need, tear everything apart and finish the job.

Our 244 and 245 are daily drivers and our only available automobiles and having only Sundays off doesn't allow much time for lengthy maintenance projects. Eh, at least now we have a garage so no more entire exhaust R&R during the PA winters on the pavement.

Thanks again,
Travis

Presses, tools, and pullers get assembled to do what removal or install is needed.
Sometimes a file, hacksaw, or Dremel-type tool, in a pinch, the acetylene torch, can destructively remove the old part to be discarded.
Sockets of various sizes make the best tools as with half and three-quarter sets generally having almost any needed diameter. Also, do not overlook pipe, rod, and the larger washers, including square washers, available at your store along with grade 8 bolts, washers, and nuts.
As always a caution, iron pipe has preference as PVC or ABS pipe shatters when subject to high impact or extreme stress, however still is found in many Volvo owner's tool chest drawers as it works easily with files for those who lack lathes.
Universally, a clean polished bore makes for a proper installation when the edges are rounded and not distorted. Inspecting the old part and bore shows what is needed. A very light synthetic oil in the bore may lubricate the pressing action.
Label any tool made for identification the next time needed by your Volvo fleet.

the rear control arm bushings for the front lower control arm are very easy to remove and replace with tools no more exotic than air tools and a 6 inch jaw size bolted down vise and a piece of plastic plumbing pipe slightly larger than the outside diameter of the narrow end of the bushing to be pressed.

1. remove the entire lower arm
2. using an impact gun...air or battery powered (a good one) remove the nut holding the bushing to the arm
3. one of 3 things will now happen.
a. the bushing and cap will not come off having rusted itself to the arms threaded stud
b. the bushing and cap comes off in its entirety.......you're blessed
c. the bushing and cap appears to come off but the steel inner bushing sleeve remains seized rusted to the threaded stud.

4. if A happens you will have to burn out the rubber using an acetylene torch leaving the steel inner sleeve rusted to the stud. once the rubber is off you will see the inner sleeve is actually a flat piece of steel that has been rolled round. there will be a seam along its entire length. get an air or electric cut off tool and 90 degrees either side of the seam slice a new groove through the sleeve without cutting into the stud. then use and air chisel and peel back this section of the sleeve. it will peel back and then allow you to get the rest of it off without drama. this method with air tools take less than 5 minutes start to finish.

if B happens place grease on the outer surface of the new bushing and hand set it in the cap and tap it till it sets slightly tight into the cap. place the plastic 3" pipe end on the receiving end of the cap and the whole thing in the vise using the vise jaw to tighten the larger bushing end into the cap. as you tighten the vise use small hammer and tap the cap housing continuosly. this help the greased bushing slide into the cap faster and easier. this takes 5 minutes per side

if C happens see above ....without the acetylene part

this is an easy job IF you have air tools and a decent vise. a press imo is overkill.


the only decent HF presses worth buying are the A frame presses.....12 or 20 ton. they are designed to be far more precise.

I burn them out and use poly at this location.
Dan

Travis,

I've made dedicated press bushings for all the 240 suspension rubber, but I have an engine lathe. Many moons ago, before the lathe was planted in my shop, I would sift through my assortment of cutoffs of pipe and conduit until I found something with a good enough ID/OD. Then, I would cut it as short as usable and accurately dress the ends with file. I also save a lot of spent roller/ball bearings to salvage the races for press bushings.

Even now with the dedicated press tooling, I take the work to a automotive machinist. Once he realized I wasn't an asshole, we grew to respect each other and nowadays he usually doesn't charge me. I still take him a few packs of Swishers Sweets to let him know that I'm grateful for his help and that I am still not an asshole.

The minor cost that a small auto jobber charges to pop out-and-in a suspension bushing is worth it.

Rich