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A/C Compressor Cycles On/Off every 5 seconds 200 1992

The A/C compressor on my 92 240 GL consistently cycles on for 5 seconds and off for 5 seconds, on for 5 seconds, off for 5 seconds,etc.etc.

The system is sufficiently charged, what could the issue be?
--
1993 240, 1992 240GL, 1985 240DL Wagon, 1983 240DL








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    This is a classic symptom of low refridgerent.

    Now, you wrote that you're sure that the system is properly filled, so there are two possibilities:
    1) you're wrong (no offense meant, really, but you have to consider this as a possibility, perhaps stemming from your equipment giving you an incorrect reading or your technique measuring).
    2) the sensor (there's a low pressure sensor, as well as a high pressure sensor) may be faulty and incorrectly giving the system a low pressure indication.

    In any case, the rapid duty cycle is indicative of the system "thinking" that the refridgerent is low, regardless of whether that's true or not.



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      I hope I am wrong regarding the system being fully charged, however I used the same piece of equipment to charge my 1985(which was reading low) about 10 minutes before, so I don't think the system is low.

      Is there a way to bypass the hi and lo pressure sensors to see if the compressor stays on?
      --
      1993 240, 1992 240GL, 1985 240DL Wagon, 1983 240DL



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        I keep getting a feeling that your “piece of equipment” is only a low side gauge that lets you charge a system from a can only!

        That gauge will not work correctly or in a sense of accuracy, on a 92 system. The 85 has a sight glass for filling and the 92 requires a weighed out charge as it does not use an expansion valve.
        The 85 can tolerate a slight overcharge but the 92 has to have a precise balanced of liquid held on both sides of the expansion device, called an orifice, during its proper operation.

        Both systems have an over pressure valve or overcharge safety valve and you do not want it to pop off, as it will create quite a mess from compressor oil. I have a point to make, I think...

        To save time, I will suggest as others have, that if you do have enough liquid on the low side. That said the low side switch (located on the aluminum can by the firewall) does present a greater propensity to go out of adjustment or out right fail.

        It is replaceable without discharging the system. There is an adjustment found in between the connector prongs but if the switch has lost its preset temperature/pressure differential, the switch is finished.

        Only caveat is you do not know what both sides of the system are doing and it is crucial on the 92 as one switch could be saying it is low or the high side switch, is saying I am way to hot or too a high pressure, shut down or turn on a fan!

        You really should be using a “refrigeration gauge set”. For charging you also need a “weight scale” graduated in ounces i.e. a postal scale, as “pieces of equipment”.

        Yes, you can use a jumper wire in the connectors. You have to be careful not to pull the compressor into a vacuum for an extended time by over riding the low side switch. Reason is, if you have a leak on the low side, you just pulled in air that has moisture! The other bad news item as it can freeze up the expansion devices. The symptom becomes intermittent cooling.

        You might have something else going on besides a charge problem.
        Let us say you jump out a high side switch and you have a dirty orifice, all the refrigerant, an excess or not, can end up on one side and poof, you have some oily fog under the hood! Be careful or you might not be the only thing on the jump! (:)

        How well was the A/C cooling before you dived under the hood?

        Phil



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          Nice post, Phil.

          In this link you can find what Volvo did with the high side pressure switch. The 91 is the same as 92, orifice and accumulator, pre-R134a.

          http://cleanflametrap.com/ac.html


          --
          Art Benstein near Baltimore

          Reporter: "What would you do if you found a million dollars?"
          Yogi: "If the guy was poor, I would give it back."



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          My question also, what test equipment was used?
          --
          Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.



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        I have a '93, which may or may not have a different set of sensors (I know the refridgerant is different unless you upgraded at some time in the past), but I would at least check the sensors' role in the rapid cycling by (one at a time) disconnecting the electrical connectors (plugs) to the sensors. This would eliminate the signal (open or closed circuit) through the sensor -- and maybe the system would work normally.

        If, for example, the system then works correctly, you'll know that it's the signal from the sensor that is responsible for the problem. But you still have to determine whether it's a false or true signal.



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