.....here's what happened to me. Recently had leaky high-pressure power steering hose replaced as I was tired of cleaning up the oil spot in my driveway, and the groaning from the pump was getting annoying. Surgery went well, the patient tolerated the procedure, and we were off and running. Yesterday, the steering began to get intermittently hard--as if the power steering was engaging and then dis-engaging. Made turning, especially at low speed, quite a nightmare. 16 y/o Daughter, a new driver, wasn't thrilled, and kept asking me why she had to drive this p.o.s. car (Told Her Highness she could walk, if she really wanted to. Declined.). Did some research, and saw the multitude of sites complaining about having to replace the steering rack in these 240s. Gave car a quick once-over and saw that the belts were somewhat loose, and figured that, in order of annoyance, (1) I'd be really happy if the problem turned out to be loose belts; (2) I'd be less than happy, but still tolerable to be around if it was a dying PS pump (I'd get one from my local Volvo junk yard); or (3) I'd be not happy at all if the problem indeed turned out to be the rack. Today, my mechanic, whom I trust implicitly, told me that it was none of these options. Seems that the steering u-joint/knuckle on the end of the column was corroded, worn out, and binding. This caused that heavy-feeling steering and intermittent difficulty in turning the wheel. Says it's no big deal to R and R (1/2 hour flat rate), though he had a bit of an issue finding one. I'm going back tomorrow for the repair. Remember: It's not always the rack!!

B

Thanks for the tip! I always eyeball mine, maybe I'll spray some lube on it next time I'm under the car.

Another fun problem - the Aluminum power steering pump bracket.... with steel bolts throught it. The round holes turn into ovals pretty fast with a slightly loose bolt, and if you tighten up the belt without realizing and run the car for a while, it will nuke your PS pump's front bushing/seal.
[Rant] Stupid aluminum bracket, what a dumb idea! There are many other ways to do the same thing, the easiest of which is putting steel sleeves in the aluminum bracket. [/Rant]

Cancel the appointment - skip the mechanic!

Try lubing the steering shaft u-joints yourself. Chances are pretty good that's all it needs. WD-40 will work but a more permanent solution is u-joint lube. Have your daughter (or someone) turn the steering lock to lock as you spray the lower u-joint thoroughly for a few minutes. Done - but watch your fingers!

BTW - It is normally the lower u-joint that corrodes and causes problems but if that doesn't work try lubing the upper too. Sometimes it will take a couple of tries to clean the corrosion off and free her up....


The part is close to $100 new OEM. Plus labor - expensive repair...

In my experience, lubing the joint might improve its operation for a while, but by the time the u-joint has frozen up, the needle bearings are pretty damn toasted. Best to plan on a replacement in the near future.

Rich

jwalker-pretty sure a new OEM lower joint is no longer available, this is becoming very very common with most OEM parts. I found this out when the lower joint on my wife's 92 245 was getting creaky. I checked Tasca and it was NLA. Luckily lubing it up worked. Oddly the upper joint is available. Though not as odd as OEM wagon taillights-left is available and right is NLA.

Travis

Travis,

Unfortunately, Volvo has no obligation to supply parts on 19+ year old cars.

He lubed it. I'm driving it. We'll see if it frees up. In the meantime, you can buy them all day long for $37 on the low end and $62 on the high end. Half hour labor puts the job at less than $125, if I have it done. I'm worth it, I think.

B

There is an easy test for a binding u-joint. Put your hand over the u-joint then have someone turn the steering lock-to-lock slowly. You'll feeling any binding or hanging up. Be careful not to pinch your hand! Generally the lower binds but you might want to check the upper too. I do remember that when my lower u-joint went south it was worse in cold weather.

Afraid I can't help you with the pump or the rack. I have no specialized knowledge of these components. I do remember that when the rack went on my 90 240 years ago its demise was not a leak but mechanical wear in the rack itself. My guess is that very stiff steering is most likely u-joint related since when my rack went bad the steering was loose not stiff.

Sarcasm duly noted. I did appreciate the advice, though. My point being, even if the spray lube trick does help, it's likely only a temporary fix, as I took a look a the joint and it's pretty ragged looking. I'm thinking that for something as, well, important as steering, I'm really not apt to cheap out on a fix. Hubcaps, fuzzy dice, chrome tip on the exhaust...yeah, I'll let my more frugal side take over. Steering and brakes? Not so much.

B

Yup, BTDT.

Didn't know about the steering lower u-joint when it went on my 90 240 years ago. Lubed it, but it was already too far gone (the OEM part was about $100 then). However, this knowledge helped when the steering on my 850 starting not returning to center. Lubed it and over 2 years later all is still well...:)

Consider these steering shaft u-joints maintenance items and spray them occasionally.

My 1984 has very stiff steering -- it varies slightly with temperature, stiffer in the cold and almost (not quite) normal on a recent hot day. It's always had proper fluid level, no leaks, and I've had synthetic transmission fluid in it for 20 years.
When this problem arose late last year, I changed (flushed) the fluid, again putting in the same synthetic. And the belt is the right tension (I've got the IPD bypass, so it's not dependent on a (now nonexistant) belt for the A/C. But it's been like this for almost a year -- I've learned to live with it, but most of the time it feels like the manual steering I used to have in my 56 Chevy.

So, is there any way to diagnose or discern the cause (univ. joint, vs P/S pump, vs steering rack). Or is it just a matter replacing the parts, in order of cheapest/easiest to most costly/difficult to replace?

Thanks.