|
|
|
This a continuation of the no start problem in our 82 240DL Chrysler ignition, K-jet beast.
Last week we determined , that the Hall sending unit was at fault so we found a good looking one on E-Bay, hunkered down and waited for the newish distributor, cap and rotor to arrive.
Seemed like the the removal and installation were going to be relatively painless.
Well not so, the Original distributor, did not want to leave it's home of 30 years w/o a fight, so it sorta came out in pieces. This effectively did away with the setup we had prepped to be able to re seat the new distributor in its proper place ready to run.
It ran at first but ran with a lot of smoke, and some hesitation in pedal response.
We had lost our markers for where the , rotor needed to be positioned, so we took off the timing belt and did a static timing. So we would know where to place the rotor. Didn't work wouldn't start, thought it was set to run on #4 instead #1 . RE did it and still no joy. It is backfiring in the intake manifold, and refusing to start.
I am open to suggestions and comments.
Daughter graduates college tomorrow, so I won't get a chance to turn a wrench on it till late afternoon.
All help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks as always
Paul
|
|
-
|
|
|
This might be insultingly basic, but have you got a timing light or one of those "see the sparks" deals?
That could narrow it down to spark timing vs. mechanical timing.
That it ran at first means the parts can all work together.... though they aren't.
One last thought: How does the harmonic balancer look? I think 82 is too early for the separation failure, but maybe not.
Best of luck
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be CB
on
Sat May 19 20:29 CST 2012 [ RELATED]
|
|
Well not so, the Original distributor, did not want to leave it's home of 30 years w/o a fight, so it sorta came out in pieces.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
What do you mean: "came out in pieces"
How can you break a distrib into "parts"
The body can be frozen to the block, but with PB Blaster and selective hits right and left it turns. then you pry/pull it out.
There should be, beyond the freeze of the body to the block, any reisitance to the pull. There's just an o-ring in the shaft to keep the crankcase oil in the channel...the bottom gear is oil lubed....that's why there is a Seal on the intermediate shaft.. What else is there to get stuck?
WTF happened???
|
|
-
|
|
|
the chrysler dists. are a different metal than the bosch ones and they break very easily. we used to have a co2 fire extinguisher to freeze them before trying to turn and remove them. when the bosch replacement came out in 84 or 85, it was a blessing. good luck, chuck.
|
|
-
|
|
|
The backfires are a sure indication of a timing problem. First thing I'd check is that the plug wires are in the proper position on the cap - that's an easy check, and a not uncommon mistake after all the wires have been pulled.
If that's not the problem, I'd try a purely mechanical timing procedure.
Pull the spark plugs, take off the valve cover and open up the timing cover. First, set the crank to the cam. Set the tensioner to loosen the belt, put a dowel in the #1 spark plug hole, then turn the crankshaft until the dowel rises to its highest point, and the crank timing marks are lined up. Then turn the cam so that after the intake valve on #1 opens and closes, both valves on #1 and #4 are closed. Check the position of the cam marks, and adjust the cam until they meet.
Finally, turn the intermediate shaft until the rotor points to #1 - the i-shaft marks should line up. Release the tensioner to fix the positions, making sure that none of the gears move.
Then turn the crank slowly , and visually confirm that the valves are opening and closing at the right time - e.g, that the intake on #1 opens when the dowel in the #1 hole is descending, and that the #1 exhaust valve opens on the proper upward stroke of the piston. Switch the dowel to the #4 hole, make sure of the same sequence.
Put it all back together, making sure that the firing order is set up accurately.
It's kind of a tedious procedure, but using it confirms that the timing is correct.
|
|
-
|
|
|
First, set the crank to the cam. Explain please.
Will give this a go after work, and let you know how it goes.
Thanks as always
Paul
|
|
-
|
|
|
http://www.threefattigers.com/Protocore/Volvo/TimingMarks.jpg
Ahhhh, some one here had a good picture of the distributor cap layout with the wires and firing order. I don't have it saved on my home computer.
this is vague but the Rotor should face the Thermostat housing and there is where the #1 plug wire is on heap. at TDC
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/
|
|
-
|
|
|
So we removed the valve cover and made sure the valves were in the #1 Firing, (both closed) and all of the timing marks were as they should be.
We have spark, and I can hear the pumps running,l but it just won't start, no farts, pops nada.
Any Ideas?
|
|
-
|
|
|
And the Rotor is pointing at #1 spark plug wire on the Cap?
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/
|
|
-
|
|
|
"Seemed like the the removal and installation were going to be relatively painless."
That's what I always used to think until I experienced several oddyseys like you have described!
It's too bad you didnt just replace the Hall sender instead of the entire distributor.
I looked through my Bentley manual,but it only goes back to 83.
The only thing I can think of, would be to mark the distributor and rotor, then re-install it incrementally until you get it right.
best wishes
good luck
and my condolences.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Is there any way the ignition module or computer could be buggered?
There is spark at the plugs and the pumps are running, a good static timing has been done,but there is no joy. Aside from putting a mule in front of it anyone have any good ideas, about how to get this moving down the road?
This is edging up into taking a very, very early bus to work, and I'll still get there later than i would like, while taking three times as long.
One problem at a time.
All help is greatly appreciated.
|
|
-
|
|
|
anybody know where I can find a new Hall sender?
|
|
-
|
|
|
If I could have found a sender assembly I would have. I would still like to know where I could find one. You never know what's going to end up in my driveway next.
|
|
|
|
|
