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For a really good 245 non turbo, 1990 stage 0.. What are some upgrades anyone would recommend? Like, IPD kind of stuff? Or is a stock 245 pretty much perfect? I see some IPD suspension upgrades like Anti-Sway bars and chassis braces, GT Strut braces.. Then there are other things like braided brake lines, and beefier voltage regulators, and performance spark plug wires.. Sometimes I hear when messing with certain components, it throws other "weaker" parts off, and you get an unbalanced ride. Anyone have experience with this, or does anyone really recommend anything as a "must have?" I'm just curious.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zFsiB6K_cZQ&feature=related
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Yes, they can certainly make a 245 go fast.
However, I forgot to mention this in my previous post...For a daily driver stay away from an RSI cam. It is super lumpy and makes a B230 idle like some sort of tractor. I hated it. The power curve was way way up in the 4000+ rpm range, so pretty much useless in a DD car. Worst thing I ever did to my car. I drove about 20 miles with it then actually went back to a boring M cam to be able to drive in city traffic.
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As the late great Carroll Shelby proved, there is NO substitute 4 horsepower!
he B230F engine is an enemic 4 banger and improving it will lead to complete engine failure and huge bills.
Get a hold of the old book about dropping a 350 CID GM (Chevy) 4 main bolt engine into a 240
Instead of a 350 get a 5.3 out of a late model Chevy or GMC RWD non-4WD pick-up with either the GM 5 speed manual or better yet the 6 speed automatic, which comes with it. Drop it with its computer (engine management system) into your Volvo and live happily ever after. Don't go up to any of the LS-X engines the 5.3 or 6.0 stock engine is powerful enough to power your twenty one year old brick. Also it may actually come out to weigh less than the stock B230 engine as the modern GM engines are heavily aluminum and other light weight materials. Also the weight balance on the vehicle will not be adversely effected. However, you may want to move the 240s disk brake system forward to more modern calipers. Essentially, the GM electricals (alternator) and the A/C pump with work with your cars system with some adaptation on the hoses. In fact, you may be able to install a rear a/c in the car in addition to the front one giving the 240s large cabin more than adequate comfort.
Other than this, I'd leave everything alone and accept current performance. After all I've done that for 26 years and 200k+ miles, why shouldn't you?
Alternatively, buy a real performance vehicle like an Audi, Porsche, or Corvette and put an appropriate "My other car is " license plate frame on the brick.
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"Other than this, I'd leave everything alone and accept current performance. After all I've done that for 26 years and 200k+ miles, why shouldn't you?"
Because I'm not happy with how a stock 245 drives but can make it drive a lot better for less than 1/3 of the money and effort it would take to do a Chevy engine swap.
And how much storage space is in an Audi, Porsche or Corvette? They're different animals. If I just wanted to go fast I would have kept my Norton.
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I'm not really interested in swapping engines. I don't feel like it's "anemic" or incapable of performance. The B230 engine is one of the best built engines ever, with proper care. That's how I feel. I agree with "leaving it alone" for the most part. But for me, it's Volvo or nothing. I've had an Audi, and it nickel and dimed me to death, and Porsches and Corvettes are great, but expensive, and probably not too practical for me right now. I appreciate your opinion, though. Let you know what I come up with.
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I'd say install TransWarp Drive, then .... !!!! =^)
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FWIW, I got to the injector rebuild today and not much to it. Definitely sound better on the bench. Won't know if it's better in service for a couple weeks yet.
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Makes sense to rebuild the injectors. New o-rings, etc...I had mine cleaned/rebuilt.
Wondering tho, by doing it yourself the injectors are not flow tested and balanced. When I sent mine off I got a report form with the flow test results for each injector. The company had extra injectors in stock and would mix/match to set up a balanced set. Worth the 50 bucks.
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Everybody else pretty much covered the big improvements. I would add this bit of advice however: polyurethane bushings are not as important to handling and control as NEW bushings.
I do not have a single rubber suspension bushing left on my car. There are a few poly bushings that made a nice improvement in handling and control (like the control arm bushings), but some simply added harshness with no noticeable increase in control (rear trailing arm bushings). In fact the rear trailing arm bushings seemed to introduce a looseness in the rear end which rubber bushings did not display. I think it was Art Benstein who pointed out that the rubber bushings are bonded to the metal shells, while the polyurethane bushings are free to rotate, potentially allowing torsion in places where there previously was none.
I think that most of the claimed huge improvement in handling associated with polyurethane bushings is due to people replacing 20 year old, crumbling rubber with brand new poly. I think that the same improvement would be noted were bushings replaced with brand new OE Volvo rubber.
Where polyurethane really shines is in its resistance to oils and other environmental factors which degrade rubber, and in its frequent ease of installation over rubber: rather than pressing in a metal shelled bushing, you can slide in a greased poly bushing by hand. Also, as many board members have discovered, good rubber is rare and costly; cheap aftermarket rubber bushings can fail in a matter of months. Polyurethane, on the other hand, seems to be fairly consistent, and cheaper than the best rubber bushings. That is not to say that there isn't cheap/bad polyurethane out there: there IS. But it is less of a problem than cheap rubber.
Replacing old, tired bushings with new can make a huge improvement to the control and response of your suspension, but do not always assume that polyurethane will be an improvement over new rubber.
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My daily driver is a 91 LH3.1 stick shift wagon. LH2.4 cars are a little quicker. Most of the mods are in the suspension. 25/25 bars, Bilsteins, firewall braces, strut tower brace, sport springs, wider wheels and tires. The car runs a B cam with a Dales adjustable timing gear 4 degrees advanced. Being a stick shift car it is already quicker than an automatic, even though the 3.1 is tuned more for economy. Car has a 2.5" exhaust front to back including the cat. While it is no barn burner, it is quicker than a stock 245. The bonus is in the handling. This car can be drifted through an on-ramp it is so stable. It does have polyurethane torque rod bushings and will soon receive poly trailing arm bushings too. If the car is an automatic, there is little you can do "simply" that will improve acceleration noticeably. The heavier cams noted, VX and up, will make a difference though.
Generally speaking, just putting in larger injectors makes little difference if the injection system has no reason to flow more fuel. However new injectors always perform closer to spec, so that may improve performance by itself. If your injectors are 20 years old and have never been cleaned professionally, then you are surely loosing performance and a new set will fix that. Spray patterns have been changed on the newest injectors too, to improve performance.
Turbo upgrades are great, as long as you can get them past any equipment inspections at smog time. Don't know if that applies. Here in California, getting a turbo into a late model 240 legally is a hassle. I'm about to do a twin cam conversion for my car, no turbo. With the other mods I've planned I'm hoping to pick up about 40 horse.
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In my 23 years of driving a 240 I have tried just about eveything. Here's a few of my must have favorite upgrades.
1.) Bilstien HD front struts and Koni yellow rear shocks.(I would also install a set of GT shock tower plates if changing out the struts.)
2.) IPD sway bars.
3.) Polyurethane torque rod bushings.
3.) Nice set of 15" alloy wheels from a 940.
4.) GT upper and lower braces along with Cherry Turbo strut to strut brace.
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posted by
someone claiming to be CB
on
Mon May 21 15:37 CST 2012 [ RELATED]
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IPD Sway Bars come with a poly set of bushings.
Gas shocks...I ran KYB's with the IPD bars on my '80 244 ---KYB Gas-Adjust are not easy to find for a 240 these days.
Haven't gone much more than that...recently transfered the IPD sways to my '87 245 and went back to stock on the '80. Put in Bilstein Touring.
Unfortunately IPD Sways are about $300+ for the set. WayBack when I got them for the '80 the set cost $113.
If you can find a Turbo in a Pick and Pull that still has the stock Turbo bars this will be a big improvement over the stock bars.
The suspension upgrade makes a major improvement on how the 240 handles. Holds the road and dosen't lean on corners.
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FYI: IPD sways come only with swaybar bushings... Not trailing arm or front bushings.
Replacing the rear trailing arm bushings with poly tightens things up. I'd suggest doing that on any 240 that needed new bushings (like most any 240 with 150k or more miles on it).
Aren't the proper specs for swaybars between an '80 244 and 87 245 different? I thought the 245 swaybars were a bit larger diameter. ???
And I wanted to say that suspension and performance mods don't just make a 245 more "sporty" to drive. They do help you haul more. The added power and stronger suspension really helps move a fully loaded 245 along. I have driven some good distances carrying a bunch of stuff in my 245, up and down mountain grades etc... The stiffer shocks, stiffer springs plus a little more horsepower made it a lot easier.
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posted by
someone claiming to be CB
on
Mon May 21 17:24 CST 2012 [ RELATED]
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Not to hijack this thread But
only three sizes of bars...stock...19mm, turbo 23, and IPD 25.
The rears...can't quote for sure but I think it's 17mm, 19mm ...IPD has 23 and a "special" 25mm rec for racing only.
The wagon I use a lot for kyaking trips to the Md and WV mts...with an occasional run to Colorado.
Would really like to get more umph for those hills. Body is perfect and at 193K thinking about some kind of rebuild...new cam, rings(?).
You have said even an A or B Cam would help in this department.
Other than wanting more horses...pretty happy with the 2nd "boating" machine.
(Only other mod I like in the Susp department is more ground clearance.) As I burned out a 75 ----which care stock with No rear sway.
But to repeat for the orig question. Best money spent starting an upgrade. If you can find some IPDs on CraigsList...
Bilstien Touring or other Gas Shocks all round with larger Sway bars will make it seem like another car altogether.
Then look at engine mods...for power
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only three sizes of bars...stock...19mm, turbo 23, and IPD 25.
Not true. The 240 came with a 21mm front bar in '93, and possibly '92.
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On my 1990 245 w/M47, I'm running:
-Cibie E-codes
-15" Draco (740 turbo) wheels
-Toyo Spectrums (nice tires, cheap!)
-Sway bars from a 240 turbo
-GT strut braces
-'A' camshaft.... advanced 2 degrees (IIRC)
-Boge gas struts
-KYB Gas shocks (not bad!)
-Some poly bushings
Happy as a clam. Controlled without being "harsh".
This is about as far as you can go without throwing a turbo on, or spending lots more money. It's also important to think about the "why?". There's no need for a spiffy voltage regulator unless you're adding electrical components. A decent set of Bougicord wires are more than adequate for what you're doing.
-Ryan
--
Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 324k, Dog-hauler
1990 245 DL 142k M47, E-codes, GT Sways/Braces, Dracos, A-cam
1990 744GLE 189K 16-valve
1991 745 GL 304k
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Bear in mind that if you install mods like sport springs, stiff shocks and wider anti-sway bars these will stiffen the ride. Maybe too stiff depending upon your taste. That is the trade-off for better handling.
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I'd say a stock 245 is not perfect. Built in understeer for safety reasons and the stock US issue "M" cam is pretty tame.
Check out the Grimshaw Volvo Performance book. Forget if IPD still sells it...
I have done the following mods to my 91 245 M47 and it changed the car for the better. Quicker and much better handling.
IPD swaybars
GT firewall braces
Cherry Turbo strut brace
Bilstein shocks
15" 740 rims with wide Michelin tires
mix of poly and rubber bushings
IPD VX cam
adjustable cam gear advanced 5 degrees
Had the injectors cleaned and balanced
Unitek header with turbo single muffler exhaust
Unitek alloy underdrive pulley
940 electric fan with 100 amp alternator
Barton adjustable voltage regulator
Magnicor plug wires
Also swapped out the big steering wheel for the smaller Turbo one.
You can go a lot further than I did.
Engine "must have" would be a better cam plus adjustable cam gear. Volvo factory "A" or "B" at least. VX is good but pricey. Enem V15 is a great cam but even more pricey.
Suspension "must have" starts with firewall braces and better shocks. Bigger IPD swaybars if you can afford them.
You can avoid an unbalanced ride when modifying the suspension by replacing parts in one big blow, i.e. shocks, sway bars, bushings and such.
And yes, seriously, modifying the suspension like that really does change how a 245 drives. Much tighter and more prone to "go where you point it".
Stock brakes are pretty good as is. No real need for stainless lines.
"Beefier voltage regulators" would actually be a higher output alternator like a 100 amp Bosch or Densa (important if you convert to an electric fan) and maybe an adjustable regulator.
Go over to TurboBricks.com and check out that forum. Lots of performance info (not all turbo) and a good buy/sell market.
Lastly "stage 0" means all stock components in perfect operating condition. Most cars need work to get up to stage 0 by fixing what is aged or broken. If things need replacing then why not upgrade?
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Enjoying the thread!
I really took a different approach to upgrading for "performance". I started with the brakes. What goes up... and all that.
1991 245 LH3.1 stick
Zimmermann cross drilled rotors
Minitex pads (fairly aggressive-no longer available for 240s)
FCP Groton (cheapo) braided stainless lines (I have to disagree w/ MrNabisco here, I feel the SS lines add a firmness to your pedal that transfers to a "more nimble" use of the brakes).
Michelin tires
I like controlled stopping, those upgrades were fantastic.
From there I went for better economy and better ride control.
all alt.-AC-pwrstrg bushes changed to poly
Bilstein touring shocks
all new front sus. rubber & new rear trailing bushings
all front sway bar and link rubber changed to poly
These upgrades really improved the ride especially when touring with 2 people on board and a wagon full of camping gear. A little harsh while unloaded, driving over speed bumps and other lousy surface, the rear bounces and slams down. But, the smooth control at hywy speeds loaded up make it really worth the work involved. This does cause me to wonder about upgrading the sway bars, there is still a bit too much leaning...
So this car with it's LH3.1 injection gets pretty great milage. I know the tire size/odometer set-up is skewed (tire dia. is sm.) but with a little "hypermiling", I'm getting readings of 33-34 mpg. Which I'm game to increase at some point.
That said, while going solo over 6500' passes in Jasper NP, BC, I was in 3rd gear, motor wound up a bit. So I can see the need for a little more power too.
What's next? Clean and balance injectors-turbo exhaust- mild cam?
ciao!
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So we have the same car...
Yeah, I'd go with clean/balance injectors, turbo exhaust and mild cam (maybe with an adjustable gear). It really worked for me, could feel the little power increase going up mountain grades.
Am now curious how the SS lines feel.
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And me,too.
I've had my '91 245 (this one)for 8 yrs, and prior to that an '89 245 for 10 years, both with the same or sililar mods, some came off the '89 and went on to the '91, every GT brace/GT springs/IPD mods that are available, 25 mm bars, Bil's and rebuilt the suspension with a mix of IPD poly panhard, sways, end links, and torque rods all the rest Volvo rubber. That was 7 yrs ago, 140 k miles and still very solid.
The bigger difference is the '91 has LH 3.1 and I added the 16v injectors, which put some oomph into the throttle, not a huge diffference, but nicer acceleration and power up long mountain grades at 70 mph in 5th w/o upshifting. Along with better intake, VX cam at 5 deg, custom 2.5" exhaust, the inmproved low end torque is noticable, and can easily keep shifts below 1800 rpm and cruise effortlessly. The LH 2.4 doesn't seem to adapt to the 16v injectors as well (if at all) than the 3.1.
I also used the 16v 740Ti coil, and did some ign mods to increase the advance. Other things very worthwhile is to use a 4 bar FPR and increase the in-tank pressure using the later A/D Delco 740 Ti pump. It will make a difference, especially when the 16v injectors have a much faster flow ramp than then stock injectors and when you floor it the higher fuel pressure and hotter ignition will give better combustion, and reach top rev's faster.
Oh, another thing do a ZERO tolerance valve adjust, will make a world of difference.
btw the engine has 350k mi on it now, been modified for the past 150k miles, I beat it to death and keep smiling, never opened or had the head off the motor.
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"...do a ZERO tolerance valve adjust, will make a world of difference."
This I find interesting. Tight valves do what?
I'd try this if it weren't such a pain to adjust the valves.
The injection mods sound fun but I'm not sure I want to open that door.
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No OPEN up then valves.
When I put the VX cam in I set valve lash to 0.019 cold, and hand lapped the shims to a go-no go at 0.0005", yes +/- 1/2 thou. and makes a world of difference in getting good engine vacuum, better mpg and smoother acceleration. It does take a while, and I take 3 sets of measurements, take an average, then trim the shim accordingly, run the engine until hot, cool down, check again and make a final trim if necessary. Before you start, measure the cam bearings and if over the 0.0005 spec the above adjustment is moot.
It takes 5 min to put in the 16v injectors in I got from a Pic-&-Pull 7 yrs ago. I have swapped back & forth with the stock injectors to see if I could improve mileage (only lost 1-2 mpg max, argueably none if crusing, gets 31 mpg) but always missed the quicker throttle response and put the 16v injectors back.
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Well, we went with hydraulic Sachs shocks, not any of the gas-filled new kind..
I can see trying the firewall braces, and move to the IPD swaybars. Depending on how that goes, it could be enough for my tastes, or quite possibly become addictive. Not sure if I would ever want to go for the poly bushings. I'm thinking the stock rubber OEM from Volvo wouldn't change too much ride-wise. But I don't ever want to lower it, or start messing with IPD torque rods or anything.. I could however want to try overload springs some day to really start haulin' stuff.
Engine wise, the IPD adjustable cam might be fun, along with performance wires, and new injectors.
It's tough though, because no matter what, I was always taught to change one thing at a time. That way you know what works and what doesn't..
I really don't want to end up with a "Frankenstein" modded 240, that becomes so strange, ugly and un-drivable, that eventually you have to sell it, and have to start posting all these mods like they're a selling point. When in actuality it would be more of a nuisance for the new buyer just to get it back to normal. Because normal ain't that bad... From the factory they balance out everything pretty nice IMHO.. Low end, with top end, understeer with oversteer, stiffness with enough comfort.
Seeing as how I'm new to the mod game I wouldn't know what's right on, and what's over-the-top.. Yet at least, and destroying a perfectly good 245 just to find out doesn't seem too smart.
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I guess it depends upon what you want.
BTW: I forgot to add IPD overload rear springs to my mod list...
The mods I have mentioned do not change the looks of the car, i.e. do not lower it. The Bilsteins and heavier rear springs actually raise it a tiny bit.
And I 'd have to say from the factory they are more concerned about a safe setup for mom's and grocery getters that having the car truly balanced out. A stock 240 is setup with serious understeer. Once you get above 40 mph you really have to push a 245 into a corner...
And I would think that mods would be a selling point if you went to sell the car. Once the mods were made why would you ever want to convert it back to stock? A properly modded 240 drives a lot better than stock and stock 240's are not a huge collectible like a VW, Mercedes, Porsche, etc.
Read the Grimshaw book if you get a chance.
Even better would be if you were able to drive a 245 with some mods done to it.
Anyway, have fun and good luck!
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My 1989 has the GT strut braces, IPD anti-sways, sachs turbo gas shocks, 16" alloy Hydras, and an A-cam. I'm very happy with these upgrades. A friend has a bone-stock 1988 245 which I maintain. Driving that car reminds me of just how much of an improvement these things were to my own. Highway entrance ramps I can easily take at 50 MPH in my car are downright scary above 35 in his car.
john
--
1989 245 236K / 1993 945 127K
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^ Excellent post IMO. On TB, look for klr142; his 240 puts out over 150 hp without a turbo and is a reliable DD, and it handles very well also.
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I have an 89/244 with 295k miles on it that's my daily driver and with all the miles the suspension clunks and groans and although the engine runs great with excellent gas mileage I'll freshen it up. I'll leave out the suspension work I'm doing and just give my 2 cents on the injectors. You can replace them or do what I'm doing which is cleaning and rebuilding them. The reason for this is I replaced the rubber seals on my factory injectors and was pleasantly surprised with the positive impact. My car idled and accelerated smoother. While they were out I noticed the amount of dirt that had collected in the pintle cap. My thinking is that if fresh seals (real easy to do) made such a positive impact then a clean injector with new screens and seals should be that much better. So even if you don't buy new injectors at least replace the rubber seals. If they've been in for 150k miles they're due. Mine had been in for 275k miles and were hard as rocks. Rebuilding them looks easy enough. I bought a kit and found instructions. Plucked yellow tops from the junkyard (6 actually in case some are bad)and will start the rebuild next week.
Link for cleaning: http://www.rowand.net/shop/tech/DIYFuelInjectorCleaning.htm
Link for rebuild kit: http://www.rjminjectiontech.com/products/inj-kit
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Hello,
I recommend starting with the fuel injection. Bosch makes some pretty nice fuel injectors now. I’ve fit them in myself.
Goatman
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What do you recommend to replace the stock injectors?
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