1992 240 - Fan ran fine/strong - no sounds. Now I get nothing at any fan speed. Is this the sign of a dead control switch or the fan motor? Are there any relays that might be causing this?

You don't mention having checked the fuse.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore

We'll never run out of math teachers because they always multiply.

Fuse is good.

Well, then, it is probably the fan motor. But it would be foolish to tear it apart for motor replacement on some internet-posted probability opinion, without making sure. There are no relays. You will want to verify voltage is delivered to the red wire going to the motor, using a test light. To get at the red wire, where it joins the switch, the front of the console needs to be loosened and tilted back.



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Art Benstein near Baltimore

When the smog lifts in Los Angeles, U. C. L. A.

Yes, I have power there. My son (it's his car) shares that the motor has "slowed" over the past few days - realy only moving on the #4 setting, now nothing.... I assume this is the resistor and a full-on replacement is in order... Here I go.

#4 bypasses the resistor.

Understood. Sounds like the symptoms stil point to a motor replacement, correct?

It depends on if it is still running on setting 4...maybe. I was not real clear on that.

If 1-3 are toast but it runs without noise on 4 there is a chance the resistor is all that needs replaced. I say chance because often the reason the resistor burns out is that the motor is too high a resistance itself so the windings int he resistor heat up until they fail.

If 1-4 are not running I think cleanflamtrap.com has a diagnostic to eliminate the switch as the (unlikely) cause.

In the end, odds are it is a blower motor and resistor replacement. The same website listed above gives you a beautiful picture-rich guide to the entire process of the "yard-sale" repair.

It no longer runs on #4 either... Not sure how to test the switch, but am guessing this is not my issue anyway (things are never that simple). 205K and the original blower motor. Just surprised it never screamed before it died.

My blower fan never squealed before the resistor went bad, within the space of two days, it went from running fine to not working on any speed. When I pulled it all apart, (thanks to Art's wonderful web instructions) I tested the fan and it worked fine, it was just the resistor that had burned out. But, as long as I was in there... I replaced the blower motor as well, a cheap insurance policy!

I agree - as long as I am in there... Is the consenus that the extra time/effort to remove the dash is worth it on this project?

I was able to replace my blower on my 86 and my 91 without doing that big of a hack job.

I grant you it is tighter on the 91 but I did removed a small piece of metal from beneath the dash, next to a removable brace on the left side with a rotary tool abrasive wheel. You need about an inch or better to be removed to allow the cover to come away from the turbine, down and forward.

I admit I thought about the dash removal process but hacking on the blower housing was out of the question, as I try to do most things with some amount of "finesse." My hourly wage is cheaper nowadays and since retirement I can invest quite a bit. (:)

Plan a weekend, take your time and have a two good thin shank flat blade screwdrivers ( long and short ones ) for the clips around the covers with some decent needle nose pliers for the turbine blade clips.

It is mission, if you care to accept, that only the BrickBoard will acknowledge your existence no matter the outcome!
Phil

Hi,

Go to wagonmeister.com and check the "how to" section for the modified chainsaw method.

Travis

I would say there is no consensus either way, but Art makes a compelling argument that it is about the same time either way. The chainsaw method is faster but has a some compromises.