Uncle Keith,
1980 Volvo 240 (2 or 4 door)?
Yeah, the K-jet or early carburetor exhaust manifold can really give you a howl at around 3300-3700 RPM in any 1976 to 1981 or so B21 Volvo versus the faster flowing, more evenly piped manifold in the late B23/B230 with the LH-Jetronic fuel injection.
You could swap out the first version B21F manifold with a B230 manifold like from a 1991 240. If your current model has EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) with a pipe coming from the rear of the manifold, you may want to:
- Assess whether the new, faster flow stock B230 manifold from a 240 B230 with EGR will drop in to your EGR equipped 1980 240 B21F. (I'm assuming you have Bosch K-jetronic injection in your 1980 240).
- If not in CA-state, you may be able to remove the EGR system as Bosch K-jet and the ignition system operate independently of it and install a non-EGR fast flow OEM stock B230 manifold from a late model Bosch LH-Jetronic B230 engine. Newer is better.
Sound deadening along the firewall interior. Some mat stuff that can take the high temps of summer on the North American market passenger side as the area gets hot from a hot ground under the car and the heat coming from the exhaust.
It'll add some vibration if missing, yet you want that exhaust header pipe secured to the bracket that is part of the support assembly secured to the lower right bell housing bolts. You want that support as it is a safety issue, it protect the utterly weakest exhaust piping connection on the Volvo 240 where the header pipe secures to the catalytic convertor.
You will want to verify oxygen sensor operation. Most that have K-jet on a 240 ignore this most critical sensor. Verify operation and renew if at fault. Review the archives for this procedure. The K-jet system uses a single-wire Bosch oxygen sensor.
Inspect the motor and transmission mounts and replace. Harder B21F motor mounts, like people like me that install the real diesel 240 mounts, turns into more vibration through the unibody and into the passenger compartment. So, use the softer Volvo OEM motor mounts if you have to replace these.
All the while, you can consider:
- A taller final drive ratio by swapping gears in that Dayna differential or the entire differential with a quality used model of a taller gearing. (Some folks disdain the taller gearing as you have slightly less torque in lower gears. I say P'shaw on them as this is a normally aspired B21F in a Volvo 240.)
- Or, as many do, locate a quality used M46 transmission with all the works from the bell housing (and all in it including clutch assembly and flywheel), the entire drive shaft, and transmission support member. Inspect the Dayna model on the donor car for ratio in that donor car differential or if it is a limited slip or locking differential.
Hope that helps.
Questions.
Well Duffed and Buttermilked.
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