Pic related, 22 ft lbs then 90 degrees. My suspension was clunking all over the place after I worked on it, and these bolts turned out to be the culprit. I can barely get 30 degrees, but it is MUCH tighter and the suspension is acting better. Has anyone else experienced this and would they recommend using 3 in 1 oil or torquing lubricant on these bolts?

I had a similar issue for the wheel hub assemblies (77 ft lbs and then 45 degrees), and I couldn't get 45 degrees because I was afraid I'd break something. I was using a 4 ft breaker bar and 3/4 inch drive, so I could have seriously done some damage. After using a few drops of 3 in 1 oil on the spindle thread I was able to get to 45 degrees quite easily (with a breaker bar).

I also wanted to ask, would it make sense to buy new bolts? The ones that came with my car have different sized heads (17 and 19mm) which I find odd, but would Volvo still carry these parts?

I just did this some months back as I installed new struts. I reused the bolts with red loctite and could only get about 45 - 50 degrees with my cheater pipe. Suspension is quiet, not clunks, rattles after like 2500 miles. Do not lube with oil, a drop or 2 of loctite if anything. Oil will reduce the friction, leading to a higher load for the same torque. Though I guess if you only torque to 30 degrees, this would add a bit (just thinking out loud here). Either way, never had an issue with torque to 45 degrees on this one.

Thanks for the advice, I'm hoping it won't loosen up but I'm okay with it if it does now that I've diagnosed and re-tightened it. I've driven a thousand miles with that issue, and everything seems alright now (it still pulls to the right after an accident a few years ago, so I should probably replace the control arm and anti-sway bar etc.)

The sway bar is not going to affect pull unless the car is bent around it.
The control arm is a less than maybe, but possible. Look first at the diagonal arm, the control arm stay, which is more easily bent.

Wow, thanks for the advice! This is exactly the sort of tips I need volvo specialists. My dad's friend is a GM mechanic and told me check the control arm, but the radial arm makes a lot more sense. I think I have a spare, so this will give me a chance order those upgraded bushings too :) Thanks, I really hope this helps (I also should fix the steering rack, the U-joint is off by one tooth).