OK, so I know they are not really related, but for crying out loud - my 940 (1994 Base) is messing with my mind.

I have been getting sucky mileage and recently found vacuum issues with the EGR (after replacing what was possibly a functioning cat). Still bad mileage and less than desirable performance at highway speeds so I replaced the O2 Sensor.

When I turned the car on to back out of the garage, the Check Engine lamp stayed on and I figured, "Great, I have screwed something up with the O2 Sensor installation."

Went to port 2 on the diagnostic block and got 1-1-1 (no faults). OK, port 6 and I get 1-4-3 which, I think, is Knock Sensor issues.

Am I just really lucky and the (6 month old) knock sensor decided to act up randomly or is there some connection here?

Also, what is the torque supposed to be on the knock sensor?

By the way, I cannot clear the knock sensor code. I do the whole 5 second, wait for the LED and another 5 second press while in port 6 but it does not clear.

Hello,

Loose electrical connection to the knock sensor could produce the code as you've described. The tightening torque is 20Nm or 15 ft lb (from Volvo Data Pocketbook 1991-1997). But I usually tighten it hand tight then add another 15 degrees rotation (don't have torque wrench). So far so good.

Hope this helps.

Amarin.

On an added note, after checking the FAQ I went to check the torque and to make sure the proper wire was plugged into the knock sensor and the locking end of the connector came off the end of the wires.

It appears the holes where the wires go into the back of the clip have maybe melted and the wires can just slip in and out.

I don't know if this is my problem, but it is another feature.

Can you buy the ends for these things?

Dear rparkerm,

Hope you're well. By "the end of these things" do you mean the connector housing, i.e., the gray plastic fitting, into which go the wires. If so, I'm pretty sure that connector can be bought as a separate part.

I cannot easily find in VADIS - the now-superseded dealer parts/service database - the specific connector. If possible, can you look closely at it, and see if there's a part number on the connector? As the in-service unit has failed, it can be cut to allow the wires and their contacts to be removed. The contacts should slide smoothly into a new housing.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

Thanks, Spook.

I actually found a piece at OReilly's. It is the same connector for the KS as for fuel injectors.

I will replace tomorrow afternoon and see it it rectifies the weirdness.