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Idle hestitation at lower RPM. 200

'91 240 auto, stock.

Over Winter my 240 started first time, every time without problem. However, when the temperate was below -17C, I'd start it and just as the idle came to rest at the regular rpm it would die. The only way to get pass this was to hold my foot on the throttle for 5 seconds and then it would idle as it should.

The car started and ran great (still does) right up until two weeks ago.

When creeping to a stop the idle hesitates a little. It was merely a vibration I could feel through the brake pedal. Over the course of the last few weeks it's got progressively worst;

I can now feel the vibration through the car.

The hesitation idle 'kicks in' while cruising (no pedals depressed) below 20kmph (for instance, in a parking lot).

Then it's started hesitating when cruising (no pedals depressed) below 40kmph (for instance, in traffic).

When the rpms drop the whole car vibrates quite dramatically like it wants to stall. It feels like it's going to, but doesn't and never has. Surely it's only a matter of time.

It's been stormy here the last few weeks so this weekend will be my first chance to source the problem. My first port of call is to clean out the throttle body. Any other suggestions while I'm in there is greatly appreciated.

Thanks








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    Idle hestitation at lower RPM. 200

    I got my second opinion from a (Volvo) friend today, but unfortunately the problem still persists.

    We test fitted a (known) good working AMM; no difference. Cleaned connector and reset codes and the check engine light has stayed off.

    We replaced the idle air control value; no difference. It idles slightly better immediately after start-up, but no change to the problem at hand though.

    I'll have to order plug/wires etc. as I can't get the good stuff locally, but we both doubt they are related to current issue. I don't think I can handle the CPS replacement, so that might be a shop job.

    My friend threw out a couple of wild potential suggestions having felt the vibrations... transmission output bearings or play in suspension component(s) at lower speeds. I'm currently researching.

    I didn't think it was relevant, but around the same time the problem at hand started (within a day of each other) my overdrive started playing havoc. It only kicked in when the transmission was cold, then it was intermediate (when cold) before finally not working at all. For the most part, the relay and dash light work fine (the overdrive solenoid just doesn't respond). Fluid level is good. I was just going to fix with the ipd plate.

    Thanks everyone for the help so far. I'm going to get a few more opinions of this vibration at an upcoming Volvo meet this weekend before taking it into my local Volvo shop. Unfortunately, I think I've been their best customer this year!! :)








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    Idle hestitation at lower RPM. 200

    I'm with Pageda.
    Dirty throttle body that's not allowing any air to get through the throat is always a recipe for a crappy idle
    --
    '75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/








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      Idle hestitation at lower RPM. 200

      Thanks for the suggestions everyone.

      I just want to clarify that the car idles just fine when sitting still, it's when I'm decelerating/coming to a slow/stop that the idle hesitates and the whole car vibrates.

      I cleaned the throttle body and PVC system this morning (wasn't too bad) but there's no difference. Where is the idle air control valve located... under the throttle body?

      Next thing for me are the plugs/wires and distributor cap/rotor if I can find them locally. They're about 3 years/50k KMs old.

      From what I've read the CPS only effects starting, not running? Mine will crank a hundred times before starting but always starts.

      AMM was brand new same time as plugs etc. above. My understanding though, is with a faulty AMM the car just won't run - as soon as you touch the gas it'll die; however, I ran the codes even though I'm not getting an engine light - 121 (mass air flow signal faulty or missing) AND 231 (Lamdba control - too lean or too rich at part load). I'll see if I can test-fit a friends AMM, just encase.

      My car threw the 231 code two years ago, I just reset it at the time.

      If anyone has anymore suggestions, I'd much appreciate it.








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        Idle hestitation at lower RPM. 200

        Where is the idle air control valve located... under the throttle body?
        Yes

        "Next thing for me are the plugs/wires and distributor cap/rotor ."

        Bosch, Bougicord or NGK parts only.

        "From what I've read the CPS only effects starting, not running? Mine will crank a hundred times before starting but always starts."

        If the CPS insulation is cracked replace it, just because it cranks does mean it is good.

        "My understanding though, is with a faulty AMM the car just won't run - as soon as you touch the gas it'll die."


        Not true, disconnect AMM with the key off it should start and idle fine. Your symptom sounds like a bad AMM. Driving can be difficult as it is in a default mode and runs rich. Clean connector to the AMM clear codes and see if it come back

        Dan








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        Idle hestitation at lower RPM. 200

        It may be the AMM. You may be running a bit lean. So at deceleration you start to stall but the CPU catches it and inputs a bit more gas to keep the engine from stalling. Also look for vacuum leaks after the AMM.
        --
        1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb, M46 trans, 3:31 dif, in Brampton, Ont.








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    Idle hestitation at lower RPM. 200

    I would start with a thorough cleaning of the throttle body, idle air control valve and PCV (flame trap ) system.

    Check for OBD engine codes from both ports.

    Dan








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    Idle hestitation at lower RPM. 200

    CPS Crank Position Sensor
    ever replaced it?








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      Idle hestitation at lower RPM. 200

      I would look at the age of your spark plug wires, distributor cap and distributor rotor. If those are new then my next hunch would be an AMM possibly. With Key out of ignition disconnect Air Mass Meter harness and then start. If it idles better you have need for a used clean looking junk yard replacement. Usually about $15-20.







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