Hi, I have just finished installing a K cam and new steel timing gears to my 69B20b. It runs well but I am concerned about the noise from the new set up. There is a distinct whine fron the motor now. Am I correct in thinking that this is being caused by the new gears "running in" and will disappear in due course? Also what is the minium gap I can set on the tapets? Thanks, George. Would like to post some pic's here but don't know how

Are they the steel and steel gears, or the aftermarket steel and aluminum? The Volvo steel gear pair are usually so quiet you can't tell they are in there. I've thrown away the one set of steel and aluminum I ever used, for whine and installed the stock fiber gears instead.
Did you check the backlash on the gears? .005 inch is good.
They may wear in a bit and become quieter, but wearing in is no replacement for quality machining.

My car has an aluminum set of gears made by Cloyes. I bought them through Rockauto.com. Not noisy. Once in a while a little whine but not often do I hear them. Cloyes Part # 20325

Good to know. Thanks.
I can't recall but the steel/aluminum gears I tried were not Cloyes. English I think.

The steel gears are noticeably more noisy than the carbon gears...and will likely remain that way.

I've seen some "steel" gearsets that actually used an aluminum gear for the cam--I'd imagine those will quiet down - but all steel will probably remain noisy as Dakar09 suggested.
I'm pretty sure that the spec for the 1975 B20F - which supposedly had the K cam (although I've taken plenty of them apart and have only found D cams) - was .022" clearance. I've had a K cam in my '69 B20B and have run .016" for the 200k total miles the cam has been in (first in a B18D). I used aftermarket lifters (which I've learned through the BB were Chevy SB lifters) and tubular pushrods. When I switched the cam/lifters/pushrods out to the B20 they looked perfect and I've never found any real wear when rechecking clearance. -- Dave

Didn't put that very well. What i meant was that I will close the gap in increments. .30 to start and if OK will drop to .25. How about the valve closing fully issue?

"What i meant was that I will close the gap in increments. .30 to start and if OK will drop to .25. How about the valve closing fully issue?

Gotta ask... why are you wanting so much valve clearance? The '75 240 B20F factory manual says .016" to .018" on both exhaust & intake, and this applied to both D and K camshafts. With the D cam, I run .013" exhaust .018" intake on my B20E (pure stock valve train) in the race car, with no ill effects. Since we run the engine to 6800 rpm regularly, I do keep a close eye on clearances.

Dave - I recollect the '75 cars with manual transmission were supposed to have the D cam and the automatics had the K cam. Or vice-versa????
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Gary L - 142E ITB race car, 73 1800ES
YouTube Racing Videos

Gary L wrote - "Dave - I recollect the '75 cars with manual transmission were supposed to have the D cam and the automatics had the K cam. Or vice-versa????"
That's also the way I understood to be--auto-K -- stick-D --. Maybe by the time I got to take those motors apart they'd already had a cam (or motor) change -- but I've yet to see a K cam come from any motor I've ever disassembled. The ex-Volvo line mechanic turned Indy I worked for always went for the D cam in any cam/lifter job or engine rebuild--unless the owner specified otherwise.
Because I knew I'd be driving my 144 (my first 140 - a '68 bought in '78 w/B18) in traffic and carrying a load of tools I opted for the better low end torque (so I'd been told) of the K cam when I did a B18 motor over - with ported 44mm intake carbed head. That car got rear ended - that block minus the cam and lifters went into another '68 for my daughter -- the cam/lifters and head went into my current (bought '88) '69 B20. Maybe I took a leap of faith - bought the cam from JCWhitney ($50 in 1990) - and the lifter/pushrod kit (on sale--also $50) from an upstate NY Volvo 122 fiberglass body panel guy. It's all worked out ok.
Finally had a chance to get back on track at Lime Rock last weekend. I'm hoping to be able to run EMRA's TT at Summit Point in the fall.
How has your season gone? -- Dave

"How has your season gone?

Sorry about the delay in responding, was off the grid for several days, then computer problems, etc.

No racing (at least in any serious manner) since the 2011 season. SCCA in this division screwed over the regional-only classes big time IMO. In my case, they killed 6 of the 8 races nearby (85-175 miles one way tow), opting to hold "Majors" and "Invitationals" instead, which are for National classes only. So, I resigned from the IT Advisory Committee and did not renew my competition license for 2012. I didn't even renew my membership in the club this year. I still have the car, but have serious doubts I'll ever run it again. IIRC, that was my 3rd attempt to be involved with that club on a long term basis. I give up.

I did run a few races in 2012 at Hallett with the local club (COMMA), but they were wreck-fests, so decided I would opt out. I was hit heavily twice in 3 races by the same no-talent driver; clearly his fault (late-brake dive bombing) in both cases, but no penalties issued. My car had to go on the frame puller after the 2nd hit.

--

Gary L - 142E ITB race car, 73 1800ES
YouTube Racing Videos

I thought that D = D-Jet and K = K-Jet as original fit but that may have just been a coincidence. Fits the timeline though.

"I thought that D = D-Jet and K = K-Jet as original fit--"
That would just make too much sense. lol -- Dave

Thanks, I have the tappets set at .40 and will try closing to .30 first and see what happens. Thanks to all for reply s.

Thanks. On the original b20b with standard cam the recommended gap was 50-55mm (.020" .o22") I use the metric. That's why I was loath to use such a small gap.

Just noticed.All your gaps are in inches, duh!

For D & K cams: .018" inlet & exhaust COLD.
A, B & C are: .022" COLD.

--
Three 164's, Two 144's, One 142 & a partridge in a pear tree.