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Yes you are right. I do not know if your valve is the same as on my 78 year car.
The electric connection applies 12volt to warm up a wire wound resistor the whole time the engine runs. Check those pins with an ohmmeter for continuity.
The heat bends a holding point of a spring that is connected to a vane that slides across the air passage.
On mine there is a nut and stud on the outside that holds tension to the opposite end of this whole affair. By loosening this nut you can wiggle the stud and the vane will wiggle open and closed more or less.
You adjust it when its cold or at normal temperature. I think there is a specification set by using the shank of a twist drill dragged up and down in there like a feeler gage. It might be somewhere in the neighborhood of an 1/8 inch. There is a spec. In the Bentley manual that gets you close. The last time I messed with years ago, I eyeballed it! (.-)
Basically the heater mimics the engine warming up at the same time. You have to time it by adjusting the time span to match up. Once dialed in, it works flawlessly for a very long time on fuel injected engines.
I have used different drills,that worked with my engine, until most of the time it idles at 1200 to 1300 rpm. If it gets colder it might adjust itself a little higher and take longer to idle down. Warmed up is about 900 to 1000 rpm.
I have always let it idle down before driving. It is my timer that says it has warmed up enough to drive.
I think its pert of the reason I have over 350k on the clock and the engine sounds more solid (no piston slap) that the B23's &B230's seem to be more prone to have. Might just be engine design changes but I'll stay quiet on those thoughts.
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