All set to slip off the timing belt, pull off the gears, and attack my seals... but now it occurs to me: how do I remove the timing gears safely?

That is: I've read the instructions in the faq, even acquired some big ass channellocks, but everything is all "DON'T YOU DARE MOVE THE CRANK AND CAMSHAFT PULLEYS WITH THE TIMING BELT OFF."

It seems impossible not to move them at least a bit, even with a death grip on that gear.

I thought the B21/230 were non-interference. Isn't it okay to move the separate gears a bit? Or are the instructions meant to indicate not doing full rotations of the cam/crank shafts?



Also, the "rope trick"? I had my doubts, but it worked great.

In most cases, after the Bolt is out of the Cam gear, the gear will wiggle off.. Same with the Crank and intermediate.
The Volvo single Cam is not like many newer cars that have Dual overhead Cams. The Volvo Cam pretty much stays put. Many of the Dual Over head Cam cars, the Intake or Exhaust cam is just about ready to rock off the Lobe. Most of those cars have a tool that holds the two cams in line before you take off the Belt. The single Cams aren't that twitchy.
As the other said, crack the hardware loose before taking off the Belt. that hardware is not tight.. put a box wrench on it or ratchet and whack the handle with a mallet to shock it off.
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/

It is best to loosen the bolts on the gears before removing the belt. Moving the shafts is not a big deal other than to make sure they are correct when you put the belt back on.

Dan

"even acquired some big ass channellocks"

Get yourself a metric socket set.

It doesn't matter if you rotate the gears and shafts. Just make sure you line them back up on assembly.
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1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb, M46 trans, 3:31 dif, in Brampton, Ont.

Scarryyyy

yes non interference