The intake manifold gasket on my 1994 940 NA is leaking at the #1 intake port. I have never replaced the intake gasket on a B230F and have some questions:

1. Do I have to remove anything other than the intake manifold nuts ? I am hoping the manifold will slide far enough away from the studs without disconnecting fuel lines, etc.

2. Is the factory original gasket made out of metal or some other material ?

3. What is a good manufacturer for the intake manifold gasket ? I see that FCP sells Elring. Local Advance Auto and Auto Zone stores have a FelPro gasket in stock.

Thanks,

Mike

Thanks to everyone who responded. Here is the procedure I used:

1. Disconnect battery negative terminal.
2. Remove bellows hose from AMM to throttle body.
3. Remove 12mm bolt from bracket below IAC valve.
4. Remove two 10mm bolts holding EGR pipe to intake manifold.
5. Remove flame trap and associated hoses - the flame trap and hoses needed to be serviced anyway. Removing the flame trap provided more room to access some of the intake manifold nuts.
6. Loosen all eight intake manifold nuts, then remove them. I found it much easier to work from the passenger side fender so all the manifold nuts could be viewed from above. Any nuts that could not be accessed with a ratchet and extension were loosened with a 13mm box end wrench.
7. Pull the manifold slightly up and away from the studs. A bungee cord from the manifold to the drivers side strut tower will keep the manifold away from the studs.
8. The old gasket came off in 1 piece. Very little cleanup was needed on the gasket surfaces because the original gasket did not have any sealer.
9. Install the new gasket with no sealer (Felpro gasket quality seems to be as good as or better than the original gasket).
10. Place manifold back on studs, re-install nuts and torque evenly to 12-15 ft lbs. I could not reach all nuts with a torque wrench so used the box end wrench and approximated the torque.
11. Re-install EGR pipe, flame trap, bolt below IAC, AMM bellows.
12. Reconnect battery and start engine - now it idles smoothly.

Just did this yesterday.you have to loosen up a few more nuts than just the ones securing the manifold.do yourself a favor, take some pics, label any hoses you take off and inspect the lines and the three sensors on this side of the head for breakage,looseness.it only takes about three hours beginning to end.I just used the gasket, no gasket goo.

There are two tough nuts to get to, do them first so the other hardware will keep the manifold tight to the Head. The lower nut on #1 and the lower one on #3. A ratchet wrench is nice for these.. the intake gets in the way of using a socket and ratchet.
With all gas lines attached it will rock out toward the Drivers fender as previously mentioned. My old gasket lifted off like it was put on yesterday.. no problem all one piece. no scraping.
Good Luck
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/

Nobody mentioned the 12mm bolt that attaches the support bracket.

Located in front of the T.B., the bracket goes down to the motor mount. You will have to disconnect the bracket from the intake manifold in order to pull it back far enough to replace the gasket.

Good catch.

steve

IMHO the Felpro is a superior gasket. Just seemed to fit better and made of a slightly better cardboard. And yes if you have an EGR you will need to take off the two 9 or 10mm bolts that attach the tube to the top of the Manifold.

if this is the sum of your engines troubles then

1. remove all 8 intake nuts
2. pull the entire intake manifold back towards the driver strut tower (note if this is too difficult remove the accordion hose from the AMM to the intake)
3. ensure all old gasket is gone and install new gasket
4. replace intake mnaifold and tighten 8 nuts

time to do the job 30 minutes

I would suggest removing the manifold entirely so you will be able get thorough cleaning of the entire air intake, including Idle control and throttle body. This also a good time to inspect/replace the heater hoses and the heater control valve. If you haven't done this in a couple of years, then it would be prudent
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89 240 wagon, 94 940, 200K, 94 940, 135K

There are a few more thing to deal with....but not serious.

I would remove the big accordion hose between the air mass meter and the throttle body.
Also, the engine exhaust gas recovery hose runs between intake posts 3 and 4 (I think that's right), so you will probably have to remove some of that.

Just remove the nuts from the intake manifold and slide it back.
Deal with any obstructions as you encounter them.

Most important is to remember how it all goes back together.

It's not a hard job.

The gasket is not metal....it's some sort of paper.
Either brand of gasket that you mentioned is OK.
I would not use any type of gasket sealer....just the gasket tightened properly.

Clean the surfaces but don't let anything (especially metal) drop into the head ports.

I'm sure that someone will give more details.

Hope this helps
steve