I am a 240 person and I am in the market for a 1991 92 or 1993. Any thoughts for an older s70 saw a 2000 for sale what are their weaknesses and what would you steer my towards that would be similar to the 300 -400 thousand miles like my 240's? I don't mind entertaining another model that will do the miles easy to work on good on gas etc....help with your knowledge much appreciated a volvo 240 fan

http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1585545/new_faq_way.html

"It is common knowledge that the 95-97 850's and 98 S/V70's are some of the best cars Volvo ever built. As a point of fact, my 95 855 has been more dependable, less problematic, cheaper to maintain and way more fun to drive than my 90 244. And the 244 was a very good car indeed!"
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I own a Volvo or Does Volvo Own Me? Try the easy to search Expanded Style FAQ Index http://40mph.com/Brickboard_700-900_FAQ_Expanded_Index_Version/

Thanks 740_dan!

In fairness, I will add that 240/740/940's will most likely withstand more owner neglect and abuse than the 850/S70/V70's. The are also simpler cars. OTOH - The FWD cars will also go a long way if properly maintained. That is the key with them. There are posts on the FWD board from 850/S70/V70 owners with 300-500k+ miles on them.

The 2000 S70 the original poster mentions is a pretty good car. They do have an ETM (electronic throttle module) that can be troublesome. If buying a 1999 or 2000 check to see if it has been replaced. The 1998's don't have an ETM. They have a mechanical throttle like a 240 and an 850. That is the main reason the 1998 S/V70's are so desirable. Stay away from the 1993 850's and all 2001-2002 Volvo's. Those 3 years sometimes have tranny issues. Check out the following url/webpage for more info on buying an S70 or 850. Pretty useful.

http://www.volvoclubofbc.com/technical/buying_used_850.html

Lynn - Regardless of what you buy, if possible, it is a good idea to only buy a car with maintenance records.


Jim

95 855 GLT 232k, formerly - 90 244DL 300k+

1991-1993 is fine.

If you can perform the usual wear item replacement on a 1991-1993 240, you'll have 800$-2000$ in parts to replace and hundreds of repair hours.

If you must use a mechanic, well, at 90$ to 120$ hourly, well ... makes Volvo ownership more costly.

The 4-cylinder 1990s jeep idea may be useful. Yet with abuse, AWD or 4WD mechanisms, and so forth, you'll have parts to to replace. The simplest, most stout Jeep model would truly appreciate suspension bushing replacement as well as I have no idea what drive train wear items you must deal with.

See the Jeep enthusiast boards for anecdotal information for wear item replacement issue versus vehicle mileage by Jeep model and year. he same is true for any used auto.

As for the FWD Volvo models ... welp, you have OBD-II on later models, and you can use the auto part store code scanners in their parking lot to find faults. Replacing wear items like water pumps, timing belts, and engine seals on an 850/S70/C70 is a swear-word inducing activity. You have to practice a greater variety of services like inspection and repacking (clean old grease, repack with new synthetic of OEM or greater CV grease quality, Volvo OEM lubes are nearly all synthetic now and for decades) of the front axle constance velocity joints and the boots that protect them. The care is more expensive and detailed on FWD Volvos, yet the payoff is the durable, fuel efficient, low emission producing, and safe and comfy car.

If not a 1972 Volvo 164 with M410 manual transmission (+OD), I like the first production run of the hardtop C70 (NOT convertible) coupes. I guess that's why we have the C30s now that appear as made from cut and polished platinum and adorned with jewelery (exterior lighting and trim). The new models since 2005 or so are really are truly sparkly and dazzling. Ravens must like them.

I'll stick with the 240 for a short while.

I'd like the 1998 normally aspired 940, the last year available in Europa, with manual transmission. Ho-ho. For the most modern RWD Volvo model.

cheers,

Grumpy Button MacDuff
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Gland Nut Strikes AGAIN!!!!!

We owned a 2000 S70 NA engine. I did most of the maintenance (oil, filters, spark plugs, transmission fluid). The only repairs were the door lock actuators that seemed to go out about the same time (12 years). The interior was wearing faster than I would have liked.
There is a known defect with the electronic throttle body. You will want to read about that. Volvo extended the warranty of that. When mine exceeded that extended warranty, I purchased a throttle body from a company in Canada that deveoped an alternative electronic mechanism (I don't recall the specifics). I did this pro-actively as my wife has no tolerance for a dead car.
I was well-pleased with this vehicle overall. We sold it to a friend so that wife could buy a low mileage 240!

Lynn
I had an s70 and i did not have luck at all with it. Check engine light stayed on all the time, as did the srs light. We also had to replace the transmission and then my daughter totaled it. We replaced it with a nice 96 850 that's been a good car. I know the two are similar.
That being said we have 3 240s and a 760 and I don't think the 850 is as tough and they are much easier to repair.
the only way I would buy an 850 or s70 is if they were very well maintained, with records.
Hawkeye

The most reliable vehicle I've ever owned and still own is a 1994 Jeep Wrangler. Mine has a 2.5, 4 cylinder engine that is very much like our Red Block Volvos. The Wrangler has way, way, fewer problems. It just starts and runs and drives with no repairs needed. I've only done normal maintenance such as fluids, brakes, filters. As a proactive strike I replaced the radiator and heater core. Exceptionally easy vehicle to work on. Even easier than the 240.

If you want something modern and need utility, get a Chrysler mini-van. We have owned 4 of them and all have been wonderful vehicles. Again, they rarely need work. Fluids, filters, brakes, tires. All have held up great, always start, run and drive.

If you don't need something as big as a mini-van, get a used Honda CR-V from around 2000 or 2001. The first generation of CR-V's are wonderful vehicles. Again, they just run and run without troubles. Just need to keep the timing belt changed every 100,000 miles and off you go again. Extremely versatile too in a smaller way and their 4 wheel drive works flawlessly. As soon as the vehicle senses the front wheels slip, the transfer case automatically sends power to the rear wheels. Great car.

As far as Volvos go, I love wagons….so I'd look for a 940 wagon or a V70 wagon. 940 preferred since I'm already familiar with the Red Block. But the 940 wagons seem to not exist around Baltimore/Washington. But there's plenty of cheap V70 wagons to be found.

if you want to spend the absolute least amount of money to drive a car in safety and comfort as well as style ..........imo......lol

you can not improve on a 240 from 89-93.

virtually any other volvo except a 940 non turbo will cost you more and in some case A LOT MORE

this is why imo a good clean relatively reasonable mileage-d 89-93 240 will out place an 850 or older v70 in resale value every time.

I have owned probably ten 240s in my lifetime, and worked on many others. My current 240 is a '93 classic wagon, manual tranny. One of only 44 made. It is the best 240 I have ever owned. Second place goes to my '79 242 GT, which was just plain fun to drive.

We also own a 1998 V90 (960). While it is a good car, it has many more issues than a 240 and is much more expensive and complex to repair, even for a relatively competent DIY mechanic like myself with a complete home shop. Also, many of the repair procedures are not well-documented and you are often left to your own devices.

You cannot beat the 240 for user-friendliness. I pick up a '91 to '93 240 if I were you.

That being said, if I had to pick a "newer" Volvo, I would not go much newer than the 97/98 model year, as things get progressively more electronic and costlier/more difficult to fix.

"You cannot beat the 240 for user-friendliness. I pick up a '91 to '93 240 if I were you. "

Excepting the blower motor, heater valve and heater core access, you're correct. ;) Thankfully Art has documented the replacement so well that it's mostly just finding the time to do the job and not the horror of extra bits that it once was.

Also, I just don't like FWD.