|
|
|
The price of loving and keeping my 1983 242 now includes a problem fuel line between the pump and the engine. This became clear, unfortunately, today while on a ferry boat in the middle of Puget Sound when suddenly I was surrounded by a complement of the ship's crew with fire extinguishers, etc. Problematic and embarrassing to say the least.
Once I was pushed off the boat (would not allow me to turn the car on) I was able to crawl under to see a drip in the line where it runs along the "tunnel" about 1/2 way between the pump/filter and the engine - maybe under the driver's seat or a little behind. I managed to get to a repair shop and they confirmed this and surprised me by reporting the line is plastic, not metal. Since 1983 I have not known this or had cause to check it out.
Anyhow, with substantial effort they managed to install a NAPA-brand splice kit with a 5/16" OD (compared to the 8mm OD of what was in place). It took a bunch of effort with heat guns and tugging. They also put on some hose clamps. I managed to get back home and now have the future to consider.
So:
(a) Is this splice likely ok for the long haul (or however long the car continues to hold together and run)? Or should it be considered temporary at best?
(b) I have no reason right now to believe that the fittings on either end of the hose are "hosed" but I have not been able to get them checked out. I guess I can assume they are ok. If not, can they be had? I seem to recall they were ring-shaped at the filter end. I have no idea at the engine end.
(c) I presume that OEM replacements are not available for any of this. So what kind of line should be used? How long should it be? Any pointers on how to go about replacing the line if needed?
Thanks in advance to all.
|
|
-
|
|
|
OEM would be my first choice, but if that wasn't available I would check to see if a local speed or diesel shop (maybe even a place like NAPA) could make a replacement line. If they can't, ask them if they know who can. A quick search for 'custom fuel injection line' brought up several likely candidates.
Greg
|
|
-
|
|
|
FYI - I was able to find the OEM part from for a semi-reasonable $53 plus $10 shipping. It comes with new fittings on both ends and a new outer protective layer as well. Certainly more expensive that doing it Art's way (and perhaps less fun). But also likely to be much easier (which I can always use). Price at my most local Volvo dealer was over $90 for the same item. So it pays to shop around. Thanks to all!
|
|
-
|
|
That's a bargain, and good to know it is still available for the 83. Post the part number and source if you please.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Never put both feet in your mouth at the same time, because then you won't have a leg to stand on.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Hello Art and thanks for all your great contributions on Volvos. Having tried (and failed) to get a proper fuel line for my 1983 242 from Volvo (the part number Volvo insists fits my car turns out to be at least 3 feet short), I am now following your excellent how-to. I am still waiting for the tubing to show from McMaster Carr and I have a new banjo on the way from EBay. But I have removed, carefully, the end fittings from old unit to get started. I have managed to get the approximately 4 foot long piece of outer hose moving but it is slow going. I am sure I will be able to get it off but I am a bit concerned about getting it on to the new tubing when it arrives. I will certainly use the q-tip idea to keep crud out. It is a long distance and while the tube is somewhat rigid I am not sure it will hold up to just being shoved through. Should I try to lube the inner hose somehow to make it slip more easily through the outer hose? Have you any suggestions on how to get it through the somewhat snug fit? Cheers!
|
|
-
|
|
|
Especially a good deal when you compare the price against the $36.88 charged for the crappy and still leaking splice kit like this (which is shown priced at $8 in my area): http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DOE0/800061/N1652.oap?pt=N1652&ppt=C0290. Jeeze!
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be CB
on
Sat Apr 12 18:30 CST 2014 [ RELATED]
|
|
since you did the work to find that OEM website, I would encourage you to post it under its own heading.
TASCA has been to the go to site on this board for a while. But just based on my brief perusal...this one is hands down for depth of information: diagrams and parts numbers
cheers to you
|
|
-
|
|
|
That's strange, I thought I posted the website where I got the part. Don't see it there. Trying again here . For my 1983 242 the item is Feed line #1312287 . Note that no one I contacted actually had this is stock. I figured it would take a while to get here (maybe from Sweden) but it was in shipment within a week. I was able to get the part number from my local Volvo dealer who wanted twice as much. It was kind of them to give me the number so I could search it out on the web.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Well, I can confirm that the web URLs I posted in angle brackets are getting removed. So trying again: http://www.volvooemparts.com/p/Feed-line/42924818/1312287.html
|
|
-
|
|
|
Just want to point out that the part I ordered showed up and turns out to be about 3 feet too short for my car. I am not even sure I can think of a Volvo this might fit. I called this place and again called the local Volvo dealer and both claim the part number is the right one for my car and VIN. So I am not quite sure how all this will turn out. So please be careful ordering from these folks.
|
|
-
-
|
|
|
3 different Volvo dealer parts desks tell me the number for the fuel line is 1312287. This was based upon VIN, model, year, FI and tranny type.
|
|
-
|
|
|
I happened to find this page of the parts diagrams/catalogs (http://www.volvooemparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_product=42924819&ukey_assembly=5704551) which says it shows "Fuel pump with fittings B21F LH - JET, B23F."
The diagram shown indicates to me that the fuel feed line is number 19 on the list of parts. If I scroll down to 19, it reads:
1312288 Feed line B21F 242 CH -218161, 244 CH -766078, 245 CH
-408998, 264 CH -129250 242 CH 218162-, 244 CH 766079-, 245 CH
408999-, 264 CH 129251- (1332018)
I am not sure what all of this means. But the part number, 1312288 is one digit different from the part I ordered/received (1312287) - only the last digit is different. If I click on the link for 19, it takes me to a page that says it is for a fuel pump. But the fuel pump is shown as part 2 on the list and is much more expensive.
Is there any way to find out if part 1312288 is the right part and how it differs from 1312287?
Thanks
|
|
-
|
|
|
Well, near as I can tell, part 1312288 is no long available even though 1312287. And I remain unsure if 1312288 is even the right part. So I think I may have to follow Art's instructions after all.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Coming in late, but...
My '80 and '84 carbed 240s had metal fuel lines. When they started perforating and seeping I replaced them with 5/16" refrigeration copper tube which can handle pressures and vibration and doesn't rust. I later discovered that newer 240s have plastic (nylon) fuel lines. (I've even replaced the tubes of the in-tank fuel sender with copper when they started perforating.)
Either way you may have to improvise.
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb, M46 trans, 3:31 dif, in Brampton, Ont.
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be CB
on
Sat Apr 12 14:56 CST 2014 [ RELATED]
|
|
That website is the best I've ever seen...listing with diagrams with 240s goingback to 1975
Great Find.
it's the only place I ever seen that lists a new and an Exchange for a M47 tranny
http://www.volvooemparts.com/a/Volvo_1987_24023l-Fuel-Injected/_51529_5705906/Manual-transmission-M47/GR-43648.html
|
|
-
|
|
David,
I just ran the PN 1312287 over at WWW.tascaparts.com, the online price there is $46.68 USD.
This site below has parts breakdowns,pretty handy. The trick there is the drop downs don't list the 240 as an option to search. Plug in a PN like yours and you get the pictorial. Anyway here it is:
http://www.volvopartswebstore.com/productSearch.aspx?searchTerm=1312287
I'm not sure if the end fittings are included, that would be worth a phone call.
Good Luck
Fred
|
|
-
|
|
|
www.volvopartswebstore.com is another place I checked. But they never responded to my email questions about if the fittings were included, etc. So I paid the extra $1 to the folks who did. Both sites seem to have the same software and diagrams/content which is really useful with exploded parts diagrams and such. That other price is really good and I would bet it is the same part I got with fittings and protective cover. I did not turn up in my web searches though. Thanks!
|
|
-
|
|
|
Thanks Greg, I just did some checking and it appears that the part number of my car is 1312287. I am not yet sure if this is hose-only or if it includes all the fittings. If it is only the hose, the asking price of $53-$96 seems crazy compared to what Art purchased for about $18 for 25 feet. I would prefer the OEM part even if the car has to sit until the part can get here.
|
|
-
|
|
|
It is a bit tricky to do right. And I can tell from your post, you really do want this done right.
Did your mechanic tell you what happened to the nylon pipe? I've never heard of one dying without having suffered some mechanical abuse. Good to know why it happened.
Don't assume it is not available from Volvo. Some for the later cars are indeed NLA (no longer available), I hear. I believe it was sold as an assembly -- both ends already attached. Give your dealer's parts guy a call and have your VIN handy.
Take a look at this. You can see the "mechanical abuse" I provided to one of our cars. :)
240 Volvo Fuel Line Fun
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
A boiled egg in the morning is hard to beat.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Art,
Per usual, your posts are quite informative and helpful. This one is rather funny as well. Thanks.
It is not clear how this happened. I have been told that damage to this line is fairly rare. I live in a somewhat rural location so it could have been any one (or none) of the following:
(a) Too fast over a speed bump or the ramp on/off the ferry boat.
(b) A chunk of rock on a dirt road.
(c) Somebody's idea of a good prank (since the car is not garaged).
There were no other signs of damage save the leak. So it is hard to know.
I would like to be sure this is done right. I have no mean desire to have the car go up in flames with/without me inside. I saw the splice kit that was installed. It had two metal barb fittings not unlike the ends of the fittings on either end. And it had a piece of pretty heavy duty plastic tube of some sort not unlike that pictured in your post. So it seems that if done properly and securely, this is really nothing too different than stock would be save the extra bits that needn't be there.
I have found the maker of the "banjo" fitting on EBay and he still lists them for a very reasonable $8.50 + $4.30 shipping. That is good to know. However, I am not sure I will need one. The one on my wife's 1980 looks fine as I can see it in the engine compartment. But I have to get under the 1983 to see it there and I haven't done that yet.
I will call the Volvo dealer and see if the unit is available still and god-forbid, the cost if it is available. Other than the routing of the thing (of which I am not sure at this time, the project looks doable and maybe even fun. I guess I will need to clamp off the live coming out of the tank while doing this.
I wish I had a warm garage with a lift and air tools!
|
|
-
|
|
|
Thanks for pointing out the humorous aspect of something I envision could be quite serious in other circumstances. Imagine the disaster on a ferry or in a heated garage with a lift (which both of us would enjoy having).
As regards clamping hoses, the rubber one to the tank, as old as it is, might suffer from such a squashing. Also it might release some crud into the main pump. So if you can avoid this, do so.
I believe nothing will exit the disconnected filter beyond what is stored in the filter. In other words, the main pump and its check valve will not pass the whole tank of fuel through it with only gravity to siphon it. The check valve needs a few more pounds pressure to open it, if it still functions. But you could pick up an assortment of cork and rubber stoppers for insurance. I found mine in the hardware aisle in what passes for hardware stores or self-serve lumber yards these days.
And I firmly believe it would be a mistake for anyone to clamp shut a nylon hose, but I understand that isn't your intention.
As regards the banjo, the ones under the hood have not seen any rust in my cars, it is those under the car in the steady path of saltwater.
On the other hand, your description of the splice seems very professional. Someone in business to work on cars understands the ferry, and the heated garage. It is those folks you hear suggesting "fuel injection hose" and slip-over splicing to DIY'ers over the internet who bring the disaster scenarios to the imagination. They almost never consider some of the auto parts and construction materials which already litter some of our highways.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
The butcher backed up into the meat grinder and got a little behind in his work.
Then a lady at the airport backed into the spinning propeller of a plane — disaster!
|
|
-
|
|
|
Well, it is finally dry enough out for me to crawl under and check out the work product. With the engine running, it does seem to stay dry. The hoses seem pushed way up on the barbed fittings which are then hose clamped. The one thing I really don't like is that the whole shebang is hanging down much lower than things were originally. This would seem to make it much more likely to get hung up on something in the future. I will have to look into that. Overall, I think, I would like to replace the thing and the banjo fitting. Is it difficult to route the line up and around the engine? Thanks
|
|
-
|
|
|
Sadly, I need to correct my last post indicating that the line is staying dry. I drove the car yesterday for the first time after the repair/splice and when I parked it I smelled fuel. I checked underneath and there was wet gas around at least one of the splice points. It is better than it was but it is still not safe/good. So it looks like, after getting "hosed" out of $160 for a repair that wasn't good for even a few days, I will be following Art's instructions.
I am starting to put together a parts list. I see the comments about the banjo fittings. Does this hold true of the banjo fitting nuts as well? I see them at IPD and I will likely go there for a fuel filter and some other stuff. Thanks
|
|
-
|
|
|
Examine any banjos at the pump/filter very carefully for rust. It seems strange to be so---but they can rust and develop pinhole leaks. For clamping fuel lines - there is a special vise-grip tool with with rounded clamping edges for that purpose----or, since mine "walked"----a needle nose vise grip (the small size pliers) with fuel hose fitted over the jaws works as well. Clamp the hose going to the pump from the tank. -- Dave
|
|
-
|
|
|
when replacing the plastic line with 5/16" braid carefully cut the plastic line just flush with the end of the barb on the metal fitting, leaving the piece of plastic line intact over the barb. install the rubber line over it and the piece you left in place will make up the difference between the 8mm and the 5/16. after clamping it down you will have a long lasting repair.
|
|
|
|
|
