Uncle jks_jks_jks,

As you may already know, please check the Bosch LH-Jetronic injection and EZK ignition control units for fault codes. See (http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm) as well as a good review of the 700-900 FAQ where it share those issues with the 240.


If the rear half of the drive shaft comes with the ability to install zirks and inject a high quality grease, please do so. Some U-joint spiders on the rear half of the Volvo 240 drive shaft have recessed set screws with Allen wrench sockets on them. While on the lift, you remove the recessed screw, fit the zirk, pump fresh grease (under pressure with mechanical or automatic grease gun) of the correct kind (NLGI-2, like wheel bearing grease? not sure, now), until the new grease comes out in abundance at the outer ends of the spiders past the seals. You can find zirks that will fit (short enough) and not interfere with U-joint articulation, so these can be left on.

Automatic or manual transmission?

Yours is a 1990 240 Wagon like mine, so:
- Inspect the drive shaft carrier bushing and bearing. The rubber, at 24 years shrinks and gets hard and moves around. Usually, the center support bearing at the rear of the front drive shaft section requires replacement as well.
- So you replaced the front strut mounts, then? You or your mechanic used OEM Volvo PN 1272455, or at least made in Germany (or Europa) Boge or, perhaps SKF? The quality clue is that you see beefy ball bearings under the black plastic dust cap at the center of the strut mount. May use silicon synthetic grease to keep those ball bearings lubed.
- Low-pressure, synthetic rubber fuel return lines between the fuel rail return output at the vacuum driven fuel pressure regulator to the steel line on the firewall, the short length nearby on the fuel rail, and the rubber line at the rear between the steel fuel return line and the top of the gas tank. Also, inspect the top of the gas tank fuel sender for corrosion.
- I'll guess you repacked the front hubs with a quality NLGI-2 wheel bearing grease? These front hubs were adjusted? The rear seal begins to get stiff by now at 24 years and 150k, so it is easy to check and add some fresh grease. Though since you stay below 3k-4k annually.... The rear wheel bearings require fresh NLGI-2 grease also, yet a cause like a failing parking brake pad lining motivate you to removing, inspecting, and replacing the rear wheel hub assembly with fresh grease. Replacing the rear axle and housing bearing races with a slide hammer is a huge pain (versus packing fresh grease in their every 100-150k. Some people go strong with 300k. Who knows.
- Brake fluid? Is it clean and clear or a slight tan color. Mid-dark opaque brown requires replacement of the brake fluid. You do not mention replacing the brake fluid.
- Engine coolant? Radiator? Doubtful you have the original Volvo 240 radiator with the side vertical plastic tanks or one labeled Blackstone and Volvo? Replace the green engine coolant every 2 to 5 years. Do NOT use orange coolant in the Volvo 240. Use green Prestone or the newer racing formulation that protects against any metal mix the coolant contacts. If mixing coolant, in spite of the delicious NYC water Garrison Keillor raves about over and over again, use a pre-mix 50-50 coolant or anti-freeze + (best) demineralized or distilled water at a 50-50 ratio. Radiator hoses? How is the opaque plastic coolant expansion tank? Any crazing or fracturing? Check the radiator and A/C condenser for bug build up in the fins and between the two. A self-service high pressure car wash helps.
- You may want to inspect the engine bay wire harness. Check connectors for corrosion or unplug and replug with the battery disconnected.
- Motor mounts and transmission mounts?
- Accessory bushings (alternator, power steering pump)
- Power steering hoses between pump and rack?
- Inner and outer tie rods wear at about the same rate, unless someone was mindful to slip fresh grease under the inner tie rod bellows on the steering rack on your 1990 240 wagon. Also, the rack gear and shaft rely on fresh grease. At 150k, this can get dry, so check that you have grease for the rack under the bellows and check the inner tie rods.
- Check around and under the battery tray for battery acid or gas corrosion and remediate.
- Use heavy-duty spray white lithium grease on all moving body parts. Door and door locks, hood hinges and latch, trunk lid hinge and latch. You may want to remove the inner door panel and clean the bottom of the doors to the doors drains. Also a great time to look for corrosion. The door handles can become loose over time, adding to their failure more quickly. Grease here inside the door where metal parts move. Door window scrapers good? If not, see www.r-sportinternational.com or iPd or eBay for the neoprene or whatever they are made from.
- Alternator brushes? If the original Bosh alternator, the rear (most likely fails first from heat) bearings and the front (fails from too tight fan belts). Buy the Bosch brush kit for your 240, remove the voltage regulator-alternator brush carrier, and replace the brushes. You'd inspect the brushes to see if they are getting short.
- Differential fluid? No differential leaks around the rear plate gasket or the vehicle speed sensor?
- Exhaust hangers? Corrosion at the exhaust piping unions? Is the header pipe secured to the hanger the support it to the two lower passenger side colts. The support is very important to a secure exhaust systems and provides a ground for the 02 sensor.
- Headlights lenses secured to the headlight reflector bucket. All 240s with the original factory crappy US DOT lenses will suffer from a failure of the crappy adhesive that secures the clear lens to the reflector bucket. You'll see the failure if you use your finger along the clear lens front center bottom edge and gently pull forward. If they pull towards you, you can replace them new with Volvo OEM $$$ or FCP Groton made in Estonia or, best, the glass E-code lenses. I have successfully remove these headlight assemblies, and using different adhesives, cleaned them, and glued them back together. You may want to check and verify your tail lights. Volvo 240 rear tail lights, the six panel models from the 1980s onward can be fail, leak, and what have you.
- The rear, half-moon synthetic rubber plug at the rear of the engine can leak by now if original. These shrink, and can pop out, yet you cleaned your PCV sieve flame trap. The oil separator breather box can fail by now, causing an air intake leak. You can buy these new from Tasca Volvo parts. A state away from you.
- If an automatic, the tail-shaft output bushing can leak indicating a need for replacement.
- The bushing materials in the harmonic balancer crank pulley can start to crank, shrink, and fail, causing the outer metal ring to slip around in contrast to the center metal part secured to the crankshaft.

I think that does it.

Questions?

Thanks.

Grumpy Technical Writer.
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Grumpy!

Sounds like you're keeping on top of it very well. I forgot if you've already changed the fuel pump and filter, but @ 140k you're about due statistically for a new main pump, just as a matter of course.