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Redblocks - NA pistons in Turbo engines - feasible? Worth it?

Hey folks.

I've got a 740 turbo with a 94 b230ft and an AW70 transmission. The low mpg is killing me - I get 14-15 if I make short in-town trips, about 20 mixed/commuting, and about 23 on long highway trips. That's all pretty bad compared to most people I know getting over 25 (many over 30) mpg.

I also would like a bit more oomph in the car just for the heck of it.

The most obvious thing to me that would help with both of these issues is that the engine was designed with a low compression ratio of 8.7:1. The NA pistons were made with a compression ratio of 10.1:1 if memory serves (maybe that's the 16 valve).

So, has anyone done this? I've heard it talked about, but not many reports of actual people who did it. Did it improve mpg? Did it boost performance? Was it a nightmare involving bent valves or milling a head to get it to fit?

I know a manual conversion would save me more mileage, but that's an awful lot of work for an extra 5mpg - more than even changing out pistons, and then there's a clutch to fail too, and a performance loss (because my AW can downshift faster than I can downshift an M46/47.

I'm curious. Enlighten me, if you will.








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    Redblocks - NA pistons in Turbo engines - feasible? Worth it?

    The B230FT has 8.7:1 compression, and the B230F has 9.8:1 compression. Many RWD Volvo enthusiasts have installed a B230F short block in their 740T/940T cars. The higher compression gives better fuel economy and more power, but you must use high octane gas. There are some adaptions, such as the turbo oil supply line, and the turbo oil drain pipe. Go to the turbobricks site. You will find a lot of information there.
    --
    john








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    Redblocks - NA pistons in Turbo engines - feasible? Worth it?

    Your 94 b230ft includes all the 94 b230ft control systems, piping, and such when you installed it into the 700-series body?

    What year is the 700-series body. Did you use the 700 series body control systems?

    If you migrated all from the 94 900 when you installed it into your 700 series chassis, perhaps you want to check for fault codes through the OBD (See the FAQ) or other conditions causing your fuel economy to deteriorate. The early RWD Turbo 240 and 700s were primitive and used a perpetually rich fuel to air ratio; why these had the huge catalytic converter to burn unburnt combustibles in the exhaust to pass Europa and North American emissions.

    The later RWD turbo systems with the Bosch Motronic operated, I guess, as lean n' clean as the NA offerings, and enrichened the fuel to air ratio in times of turbo boost.

    So check all the usual suspects causing poor fuel economy from engine control systems to brake drag to, well, you know.

    As for building a turbo engine with NA 10:1 or so pistons may be a rather extreme solution to gain better fuel economy. In doing so, you really want to build out the engine from the ground up using very heavy and reinforced connecting rods, well balanced crank, and the whole and expensive performance offerings to build an engine capable of typical or increased turbo boost with a 10:1 or so compression you find on NA redblock engines. Further, you may need to invest into performance and programmable engine control system that either works with existing engine sensors or after market sensors to work with such a performance engine. A truly expensive notion.

    You may want to research more here on the brickboard and, perhaps more so, on the turbobricks site (requires registration to access some info).

    I'd like to do this with a Volvo 164 with a B30 with hardened valve seats and a polished and ported head, maybe a slight compression increase, yet keep it NA, and use one of the modern after market engine control systems. Keeping the D-jet furl rail, may be able to open an injector on intake stroke only, and not the wasteful 3+3 injector spray method the D-Jetronic uses. Of course we'd have the M410 4-speed + Laycock D-type overdrive or a big and beefy Getrag or Ford T-5.

    The Mighty Volvo B30. Tractor motor sublime. Yet never managed in a way to get the most out of it with the best fuel economy whether two or three side draft carbs or the primitive if funky Bosch D-Jetronic.

    Off the Volvo 164 dreamin' soapbox. Sorry.

    cheers,

    Kittys Grey MacDuffster Volvo 242 GT.
    --








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      Redblocks - NA pistons in Turbo engines - feasible? Worth it?

      I kept the original (87 I believe) intake manifold and transferred the necessary sensors.

      This is actually better mileage than I've gotten from the 87 engine that was in this car before. I think it's a combination of the drag coefficient, automatic transmission, and turbo engine.

      It's LH2.4 and the 94 had identical sensors.

      I don't really see if being worthwile to switch over to all different electronics, and I suspect a different fuel pump system. As far as I know, the only 900 series car to have a motronic system was the 960 I-6 engine.

      This setup has never thrown a code, which is more than I can say for the old sad engine before it.







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