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Hello to all
I did a DIY job on flushing out the steering fluid on my 1991 940 Volvo Sedan. I used about two liters of power steering fluid in the process. (Dextron lll)It was messy but I learned that if you use a long hose attached to the reservoir out-put line, and lead it to an emt jug on the ground it will keep the used fluid from flying all round the engine bay. The engine needs to be running, so if the reservoir runs dry,shut off the engine, refill the container, and do it again, until the fluid is a reddish, clean color. The original fluid in the car was grayish looking and hadn't ever been flushed out.
The effect on the steering was immediate, made the steering very smooth and the pump quieter also.
Just to let you DIYer's know! Check out the FAQ's for particulars.
--
89-740 GLE;91-940 Sedan ;98-V90 Wagon ___ all running well
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I read somewhere that you don't have to run the engine to change the power steering fluid. jack the front up, empty the fluid reservoir,run the return line from reservoir to container. Turn steering wheel full left to full right while checking the fluid reservoir level. less air bubbles and fluid flow.
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Another easy method though a bit more involved than using turkey baster. I recently done a full flush using this method instead. You could blow some air into the reservoir fill opening while draining. Close the reservoir return port (use finger or something) to prevent air leaks out. More oil could be forced out thru the return hose into container. Repeat a few times. When done, I used almost entire litre of fresh steering fluid refilling back the reservoir.
Regards,
Amarin.
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I have used this method on 2 of my 240's, first a quart of cheap fluid then with mobil 1 ATF. One of the cars was making noises and did it as a last ditch effort so I didn't have to replace the pump, so far a year later all is well with no noises! I figure I have changed all the old fluid out and now mostly have Mobil 1.
Dan
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Yup - most cars' power steering systems NEVER have the fluid changed unless/until a pump, hose or rack goes belly up - which is often 10-15-20 years. Every 2 I perform the suction/refill/circulate/rinse/repeat on the only one I still have with hyd power steering. Pretty sure the steering components will outlive me.
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I haven't bothered with a full "flush" per se in decades. I use a turkey baster to suck the reservoir dry. Refill with Type F. Drive the car around the block making sure to cycle through full lock a couple of times. Use the baster to empty the reservoir again - drive, again. Rinse repeat. Go through that 3 or 4 times and you've got mostly new fluid in the system. MUCH easier than trying to disconnect and reconnect lines. And, if you do it regularly from new or when you put new components in the system -- it stays clean.
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Uncle volvosenior,
Please verify correct power steering fluid type in your 1991 Volvo 940 owner manual.
While the 700/900 FAQ on Steering at (https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/Steering.htm) states:
Fluid Specification. [Editor] Your manual calls for "ATF" which means Dexron. Many people have had outstanding results with synthetic ATF such as Mobil 1 or Castrol. While Volvo does not specify an oil change interval, you are highly advised to regularly flush the system or add a filter.
ATF is an abbreviated acronym for automatic transmission fluid. Many ATF varieties exist. However, the statement ""ATF" which means Dexron" not at all times correct.
While my Volvo 240 factory and owner manuals remain packed up and miles away, I'm very certain your 1991 Volvo 940, like the 1991 Volvo 740 use ATF Ford Specification "Type F" or "Type G". I use synthetic "Type F" in my Volvo 240.
Unless your power steering system (pump and rack) is a replacement by you or a prior owner that does indeed require the use of a Dexron version for power steering fluid, you most likely have a TRW/CAM steering rack on your 1991 940. These power steering racks racks of this vintage on Volvo 240/700/900 use usually the same TRW/CAM gear power steering rack, with form factor variance by Volvo model (inner tie rod length), and these racks, unless I'm really wrong, use ATF Ford Specification "Type F" or "Type G" as my Volvo 240 and 740 owner manuals clearly display, from memory. I do not recall what the 940 owner manual states.
Using Dexron in a power steering rack that requires "Type F" will cause seal and other failure and rather quickly. The rack seals fail first and the inner tie rod bellows fill with the red power steering fluid and leak.
I've seen this happen before and I've done this to myself as the later publishing date edition Haynes manual for 1976-1993 240 call for Dexron III as the power steering fluid when the Volvo factory owner manual for 1990, 1991, and 1993, and I think 1979, and some other years, call for ATF Ford specification "Type F" as power steering fluid.
I replaced the power steering fluid in my 1990 240 DL with TRW/CAM rack with Dexron III and within a short period, maybe some months of daily driving, the rack seals had failed. That 1990 240 DL wagon, with M47 II, has 180,000 miles.
There may be power steering fluid type variation on the systems equipped with the ZF power steering racks. The ZF racks were used on mid 1980s models.
Your 1991 Volvo 940 should use the very same power reservoir and steering pump and a similar TRW/CAM gear rack as my 1991 240. Same should be true of your 1989 740 GLE. I believe Koyo are a type of CAM rack came into use on 900 series 1994 and later and may or may not use a power steering fluid other than "Type F".
Please verify and correct if needed.
After market repair manuals, like Haynes and Chilton, can be wrong in specification, like fluid types, torque, and procedure.
Hope that helps. Apologies if my alarm is unwarranted. No need causing premature failure to a functioning power steering rack!
Thanks,
Buttermilk MacDuffy's Tavern.
--
Teh RWD Volvo is forever awesome!
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Last month my mechanic replaced the rack on my 1990 Volvo 740 GL wagon due to rusted lines, and sudden total loss of power steering fluid. Yesterday, I heard a rubbing, checked the reservoir, and found it completely empty. Mechanic looked around, and saw no leaks but did not put the car on the lift. I saw nothing on the ground after filling the reservoir and having the car sitting overnight, and after driving 4 miles or so in the morning, there was no loss of fluid on the stick, unless it was so minor I couldn't see it.
Now, I'm wondering what kind of steering fluid he put in the reservoir and if the seals on the new remanufactured rack are failing, as you have cited. When the reservoir was empty yesterday, I had some dex fluid, so used that. Today, I asked him about using the dex, as opposed to "power steering fluid," he said it made no difference. Then, I showed him a container of "F" transmission fluid - I couldn't recall just then why I was carrying it around in my car. He said that was ONLY used for Fords. If you are correct, then my mechanic, and my car manual, are terribly wrong, which I highly doubt. What would you do? Thank you. PS I should add that since the rack replacement, even after 100% alignment, the car has lost the road feel and simple steering it had had. Now, it seems I'm forever making small corrections. (Probably unrelated).
"Unless your power steering system (pump and rack) is a replacement by you or a prior owner that does indeed require the use of a Dexron version for power steering fluid, you most likely have a TRW/CAM steering rack on your 1991 940. These power steering racks racks of this vintage on Volvo 240/700/900 use usually the same TRW/CAM gear power steering rack, with form factor variance by Volvo model (inner tie rod length), and these racks, unless I'm really wrong, use ATF Ford Specification "Type F" or "Type G" as my Volvo 240 and 740 owner manuals clearly display, from memory. I do not recall what the 940 owner manual states.
Using Dexron in a power steering rack that requires "Type F" will cause seal and other failure and rather quickly. The rack seals fail first and the inner tie rod bellows fill with the red power steering fluid and leak."
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Dexron is the wrong type.
In some instances, a mechanical or hydraulic device may be able to use a range of lubricants, yet when you use a specific lubricant, stick with it.
When I wrote that, I may have been confusing automatic transmission with power steering pumps. It is the rack, that more so, requires the "Type F". A rebuilt rack that came from a rear wheel drive Volvo would use the same lubricant specified originally for it.
The wonders of synthetic fluid allow it to meet a broader specification.
At any rate, the mechanic service is wrong in suggesting the use of any fluid type, and that it makes no difference.
An empty fluid reservoir may mean an air embolism remained after you drove away. Though a mechanic repair services knows this after draining the fluid away, if they did, and refilling the power steering fluid. An air embolism returning to the reservoir may have made power steering response and low speed lumpy. Using the wrong fluid, such as Dexron III like I did in my 1990 240 DL wagon took six months to ruin. Thanks, Haynes 240 manual. Stupid me. Poor me. Brake dust boy me.
If you refill the reservoir and you find it empty again, well, that is on the repair service you used.
Yet we look at the 1990 Volvo 740 owner manual from the Volvo website, and we see "Type F"
http://new.volvocars.com/ownersdocs/1990/1990_740/90740_24.htm#116
You can perform a fluid change, or flush, or have the mechanic do it, if you trust them.
Some would remove the fluid return line from the reservoir and allow it to pour into a large enough container. At least two quarts. With the power steering belt slacked enough you can spin the pump pulley in the same direction as the engine does when running. Slowly spin and the fluid return through the return line, and into your 2 quart or so container. As the fluid drains from the reservoir, add the proper fluid type. You could consider it an intermediate step change fluid, or not. Use mineral Type F or synthetic, like Redline Type F. Fill and spin. You may need to pour the waste oil into another waste oil bin for recycle.
Also, use a clean paper cloth so you can mark it with the different oil fluids for appearance by color so you know when the new fluid pushes through the return line so you know you don't use much.
It may help, after you moved maybe .5 quart, to turn the steering wheel lock to lock at least once if not three times, to press fluid out of the power steering bits on the rack. Maybe again after another .25 quart. Helps to raise the front of the Volvo 740 from the ground such that the wheels are free.
One a full quart goes through, dip a clean paper cloth to see the color and hope for new fluid, by then. If a good match, reconnect the return hose, and fill the reservoir. Check again.
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Open your wallet and use Mobil1 ATF. That's been my PS fill for over 30 yrs in my volvo fleet. Never replaced a rack or pump. And wintertime steering never gets stiff.
--
The Family Fleet '90 745 16v; '90 745 GLE; 96 855T; 99 XC, collectively approaching 900,000mi and going strong.
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I have two 93 Classics and run Mercon V ATF Power Steering fluid. . Both have Wix filters in the return line. My mechanic did a complete purge of the fluid in the rack. Now I do a drain and fill every 10k and a filter replacement every 20k. The steering is superb. Sam
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An update to my previous post.
Both Classics have received reservoir drain and fills every 5k with Mercon V purchased at the local Ford dealer. One rack has 105,000 miles, the other has 72,000. Steering is smooth and responsive. The racks are bone dry. Per my friend Dave Samuels at Wagonmeister, cleanliness is key in a hydraulic fluid. So I keep the fluid really clean.
Sam
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I'm sold on Mobil 1 as well. About 5 years ago the rack seals on my 95 855 started leaking. Flushed the fluid using the turkey baster method and replaced with Mobil 1 ATF. Stopped the leak, the rack and PS pump are still going at 250K+. Flushed once more in 5 years. The 855's tranny also has Mobil 1 ATF. Zero issues there.
Wished I had made the switch on my 90 244 years ago before I replaced the rack and the tranny started leaking like a sieve....
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Thank you. I figure I'm screwed. All my money went into these repairs. I've argued the type "F" - by the book - repeatedly. I know the mechanic is brushing me off. I'm copying everything you wrote for future reference for myself. Thank you.
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My 740 wagon is gone now and when I sold it, the old replacement ZF rack was starting to lose fluid again, which isn't surprising since the steel lines were really rusty and I just painted them with POR 15 when I put it in several years ago. As far as I can remember I used Dexron because that's what we use in all our other cars and there's always a jug in the garage. But the rack wasn't leaking from the boots, so I can't confirm that Dexron destroys the seals in these racks. Nevertheless, this is the first dissertation I've seen on why Type 'F', as specified, should be used instead of Type 'A'.
--
1992 745, >500k km (now gone, but not forgotten)
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If the reservoir empties again or you have other problems take it back to the mechanic, have him flush the system and replace it with the correct fluid. Did you say that your owners manual says Dex? If so, I would go with that.
"PS I should add that since the rack replacement, even after 100% alignment, the car has lost the road feel and simple steering it had had. Now, it seems I'm forever making small corrections. (Probably unrelated)".
This sounds more like a binding steering shaft u-joint than a rack issue. Meaning the small corrections part. Does it also have difficulty returning to center? If so, it is most likely a steering shaft u-joint problem. After replacing the rack on my 90 240, the steering shaft lower steering shaft u-joint became problematic. Try lubing both steering shaft u-joints with WD-40. Particularly the lower one since it is constantly exposed to the elements. That might help make the steering operation smoother.
Personally, I am a big believer in using synthetic ATF in your PS system as it stopped the rack seals from leaking in my 95 850 and quieted the PS pump. It is my understanding that it is suitable for use in a wide variety of PS systems. You could flush the system, replace with synthetic ATF (I use Mobil 1) and see if that improves your steering operation, feel and response. My disclaimer - using synthetic is completely your call.
If the steering still doesn't feel right after a flush, refill and lubing the u-joints, take the car to an alignment/steering specialist (someone who does nothing but alignments - not a tire store) and get their opinion on the rack's condition. If the rack is bad, take it back to the original mechanic and get another rack as the rack replacement will be under warranty. If the mechanic balks, threaten to take him to the BBB or small claims court...
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Thank you for everything you wrote. I will copy your recommendations and hold onto them. You asked if the steering righted after correction - not really. The mechanic has continued to give me the shaft on this, and all my funds were spent on the repairs, so until I can pay a different mechanic, I'm stuck with ruining my car by driving it at all. It was an alignment specialist who did the alignment - or so I was told. The guy doesn't stand behind his work, although I tried to get him to do so - he won't even recheck because his machine is perfect. Had I known this was his attitude, I would have gone to VIP - which, frankly, I will do in the future even with the problems there as at least they'll give it another go. So much for patronizing local and known repair shops. Thank you, again.
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"PS I should add that since the rack replacement, even after 100% alignment, the car has lost the road feel and simple steering it had had. Now, it seems I'm forever making small corrections. (Probably unrelated)."
Try lubing the lower steering shaft u-joint yourself. That alone might cure some or all of your steering issues. It is an easy job. Hardest part is probably finding the u-joint. If you are unfamiliar with the steering shaft's u-joint location, the easiest way to locate it is to open your hood, find where the steering shaft emerges from the firewall then follow it down into the lower engine compartment. The u-joint is just above where the steering shaft connects to the steering rack.
The following might take multiple tries so don't give up after the first one! Park the car on level ground. With the engine idling, spray the u-joint thoroughly with WD-40 while rotating the steering from lock to lock. Try to hit it at various angles and different parts of the steering radius. A couple minutes should do it. Once again, don't give up if this doesn't work the first time as it can take a couple of applications!!
Your mechanic probably doesn't even know about this...:)
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Update: I've gone to the mechanic about 10 tens now, as he instructed, to verify the power steering fluid level. The level dropped, then stayed fairly constant. I kept asking him to put it on the lift. He didn't. He would look at the engine, and crawl underneath the car.
Last week, started hearing clunking on the driver's side. It seemed to occur when I backed up, and if the left front wheel went over a small bump. I took the car back to the garage three days ago to tell him about the clunking sound. (He had previously replaced the right boot). But I'd also been getting a steering noise. So, the first thing we did was check the level. There was barely fluid in the reservoir. This time, and for the first time, he put sealant in. He told me to come in today. Finally, put it on the lift. He found fluid in the rack bellow. Finally, he proclaimed the replacement rack bad, and ordered a new replacement. However, he claimed the clunking was "just suspension."
I think the clunking was from the bad rack. He told me I would need an alignment again, of course. But, as I'd written, he doesn't do alignments, so I'm looking at shelling out another $90. I'm going to try to get the cost of the alignment reimbursed by the company that made the bad rack.
I'm concerned that I've been driving the car with the bad rack, and given that the steering has been off since it was replaced, and what damage has been done, and to what parts. I'm also not happy that he didn't try putting in sealant before ordering the new rack, (and that I didn't think to try it). What do you think about all this? I'm very concerned that the steering mechanisms on this car with 200,000 miles have suffered badly. Thank you.
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"I'm concerned that I've been driving the car with the bad rack, and given that the steering has been off since it was replaced, and what damage has been done, and to what parts. I'm also not happy that he didn't try putting in sealant before ordering the new rack, (and that I didn't think to try it). What do you think about all this? I'm very concerned that the steering mechanisms on this car with 200,000 miles have suffered badly. Thank you. "
Don't be overly concerned. The defective rack shouldn't adversely affect the steering system in your car.
A few thoughts:
1. Make sure he flushes out all of the old fluid and replaces it with new when replacing the rack. This will remove any metal particles and also the sealant he used.
2. The one component that should be of concern is the aforementioned lower steering shaft u-joint. It has to be loosened every time the rack is removed. It is probably fine, but removing it twice could result in damage.
3. It would be a smart move to put a filter in the inflow hose to the power steering pump. This filter would protect the pump by catching any particles traveling from the rack to the pump. These filters are pretty cheap. If you want to do it yourself you can obtain one from IPUSA.com
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Thank you. I am sorry I had no notification of your reply until today, the 21st. I discovered today that the 2nd replacement lack is leaking fluid visibly at the seals. I only learned that because I took the car to have it aligned. However, last night was the first time I checked the reservoir since the repair last week - have only driven 60 miles or so - and I thought the stick showed fluid to the cap line. That would mean it was overfilled. Mechanic says that's not a problem. I don't see how it can't be, especially with the new 2nd rack.
I called my mechanic and left the message that the 2nd rack is leaking. He hasn't called back, and the shop closed early. Two bad racks in a row? -- I can't confirm that he flushed and bled the power steering fluid. He says that he did. -- I hope you get notification of this email far sooner that I did, as I don't know how best to proceed - do I assume two bad racks, or mechanic who is incapable of doing the job.
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On an older rack because of the age of the seals, the pressure from overfilling might result in fluid being pushed through the rack seals. I'm no rack expert but I would assume your rebuilt rack comes with new seals which would be far less susceptible to leaking if at all.
"do I assume two bad racks, or mechanic who is incapable of doing the job."
To answer your question it could be either. If he is capable of installing the rack correctly then the odds are that is another defective rack. I would give him the benefit of the doubt (for now anyway...) and assume it is another bad rack. If indeed the new rack is leaking at the seals that leads me to believe that it is a quality issue with the source (rack supplier) he is obtaining the racks from and not the mechanic himself.
Assuming it is another bad rack, ask him if he could obtain a new (rebuilt) rack from another supplier since this supplier seems incapable of providing good quality racks to their customers. Many folks here on the Brickboard have used a company named Jorgens for rebuilt racks with great success. They have a good rep and stand behind their work.
Although I'm sure your mechanic does not want to spend anymore of his time or money to make this right for you, he should as I believe he has a moral obligation to take care of you, his customer and do what is right.
Keep us posted as to what happens next...
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notificationofreplynotreceieduntilmarch10sitenotfunctioningprackbadx2newracktobeinstalledcan'tusespacebaronkeyboardnorcapswithoutreplybeingdeletedthankyouforyoureply
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Kitty, that's the longest dissertation I've ever seen on PS fluid for Volvos, particularly your mention of Type F (Ford) fluid.
You said:
"Using Dexron in a power steering rack that requires "Type F" will cause seal and other failure and rather quickly. The rack seals fail first and the inner tie rod bellows fill with the red power steering fluid and leak." That's the first I've heard that and I've been asking about the difference between these fluids here several times with no answers.
My owner's manual specifies Type F and that's what I've used since I've had it, except when it was leaking badly because of pinholed steel lines, when I poured any ATF I had handy. All I know about Type F is that it has slightly different friction properties than Dexron and if you used in an automatic transmission in place of Dexron, it was supposed to give more positive shifts, which some people liked, because it chirped the tires.
When I finally replaced my leaking rack it was with an older ZF rack from the junkyard. So does that mean I should now use Dexron instead of Type F?
--
1992 745, >500k km
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Hi oldyeller,
Sorry to miss your reply now over 30 months ago or so.
Had I paid attention, yet was too broke to do so, I would say, if this used rack came from a rear wheel drive Volvo 700, you would continue using "Type F".
Nope, not Dexron.
Happy Christmas.
Duffed.
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Merry Christmas to you too Kitty!
It's been 5 months since I my '92 745 as a project car because I'd been backsliding on fixing stuff. I honestly can't remember now which fluid I put in the replacement ZF steering, but it gave me no trouble. Near the end of my ownership it was starting to lose a bit of fluid again and I presumed it was from the steel lines again because I saw none leaking from the boots. The rack was from an '87 and the lines were really rusty, but with no visible leaks, so I painted everything with POR-15 to halt further rusting. It amazes me that Volvo use a special non-rusting alloy for brake lines but not specify the same for steering rack lines. Anyway, when I was losing fluid again I would top it up with Dexron because that's all I had around for all our other cars.
I replaced the Volvo wagon with a 2005 Dodge Magnum because I had to have a station wagon and with the SUV scourge, it was slim pickings. I still miss the Volvo because it's so much better than the Magnum in so many ways. What I paid for the Magnum would probably have paid for getting everything on the Volvo fixed professionally.
--
1992 745, >500k km (now gone, but not forgotten)
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Once the fluid is renewed I keep a powerful magnet, a computer hard drive magnet, in the reservoir permanently and fish it out once in a while to clean it out--the fluid never gets dirty.
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Hi tedv
I read on this forum a little suggestion about that previously. You are right , it does help and it is effective. Thanks for the reply.
--
89-740 GLE_91-940 Sedan _98-V90 Wagon_2001Mazda626
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The turkey baster method works pretty well. Suck out of the reservoir then replace. Do it a few more times after driving and it pretty much replaces it all.
A fluid transfer pump works even better than a turkey baster.
--
Paul NW Indiana '89 744 Turbo 175K/ '90 745 turbo 145K
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Hi spasske,
the turkey baster works better than making a mess with removing the hose- I tried it on my 940 and this method made it an even easier job. I have a fluid transfer pump somewhere, when I find it I'll use it on the V90 we own. I'll let you know how it works out- thanks for the tip.
--
89-740 GLE_91-940 Sedan _98-V90 Wagon_2001Mazda626
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Yes these methods work well, I've tried both but seems like a small amount of fluid remains in the sump and contaminates the new product so I decided to change it all at one whack.
Makes a BIG difference!
--
89-740 GLE;91-940 Sedan ;98-V90 Wagon ___ all running well
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You were fortunate in being able to remove the hose from the barbed inlet on the reservoir. In five Volvo's, I've never been able to do that without slicing the hose. The barbs are VERY effective.
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Hello,
I agree with Steve. In my experience doing the turkey baster method is the most pleasant way to change the fluid. I've tried one time removing the hose from the power steering reservoir. As it turned out I have to slice the hose lengthwise just to get it off the barb. Luckily there was still more remaining hose to connect back.
Volvosenior method is the best regarding getting out all the old fluid. But the turkey baster method is the most pleasant and almost spill free. Everything done in under 10 minutes.
Regards,
Amarin.
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Hi do you mean reservoir in-put line attach to the line coming from the pump into the power steering reservoir.? I flushed my trans and never thought about power steering will have to give it a go.
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If you mean removing the return line to the reservoir, it is impossible to wiggle off the hardened, cooked-on return hose on the plastic barbed tube without breaking the tube off. You can cut it off at the end of the plastic tube only if you have enough slack left over to reattach and carefully shave off the hardened hose on the tube. I did that once. I use the turkey baster method now.
TOm
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